Water Heater Drain Hole is Rusty

[Isaacs]

I was trying to replace the drain plug on my daughter's water heater and had trouble screwing it in. The plug is stainless steel with an anode attached to it.

I put some Teflon tape on it and had a lot of trouble balancing the anode to get the plug to screw in properly. I'm pretty sure I got it right without cross threading it but it tightened only about 1-1/2 turns.

The hole in the heater was rusty and I'm thinking this is why it didn't want to go in any farther; I didn't want to force it. It's not leaking right now and I suppose I should leave well enough alone but I never do! Should I get a pipe tap and chase the threads? Force the plug in some more? I'm thinking it will get a bit worse each year unless I can clean it and stop the rust. Silicone grease?

My own trailer has no anode, just a plastic plug and I never see any rust.

[Colorado]

I'd chase the threads before I'd force it. Is the bung welded into the tank or threaded?

[TWP723]

I'd get a plastic plug and put Teflon tape on it. Plastic plugs are more forgiving. That way if it works, great. If not, you just messed up a $2 plug. I try to avoid metal plugs in the HWH.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by TWP723

I'd get a plastic plug and put Teflon tape on it. Plastic plugs are more forgiving. That way if it works, great. If not, you just messed up a $2 plug. I try to avoid metal plugs in the HWH.

If it's a steel tank it needs the anode rod. Plastic plugs are for aluminum tanks.

[TWP723]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

If it's a steel tank it needs the anode rod. Plastic plugs are for aluminum tanks.

Ahhh ok...didn't catch the steel part.

[Robbbyr]

If the heater is an Atwood, a plastic plug with no anode is recommended by Atwood. Atwood heaters use an aluminum tank and if you twist too hard you may rip the bung right out of the tank!

If the heater is a Suburban with a porcelain-lined steel tank an anode is required. If that is the case I would myself consider a pipe tap (tapered pipe thread) to clean up the threads and use some Teflon tape and see if it is better. I would still be cautious force-threading it in, even the bung on a steel tank might rip out.

[Isaacs]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

If the heater is an Atwood, a plastic plug with no anode is recommended by Atwood. Atwood heaters use an aluminum tank and if you twist too hard you may rip the bung right out of the tank!

If the heater is a Suburban with a porcelain-lined steel tank an anode is required. If that is the case I would myself consider a pipe tap (tapered pipe thread) to clean up the threads and use some Teflon tape and see if it is better. I would still be cautious force-threading it in, even the bung on a steel tank might rip out.

Yes, it's a Suburban. I'm getting a tap to clean things up and make myself feel better even though it's not currently leaking.

Thank you all for your help and clearing things up about the steel vs aluminum tanks.