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Old 12-05-2023, 12:11 PM   #1
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Exclamation Winterizing - or better yet, de-watering

I don't need to use water in this RV. I am not travelling with it currently, but might sell it in a few years.

It's an older model, but I have never owned or used an RV before. However, it's turning colder and I found the pump switch and turned on the knob, and water came out of the faucet.

I hear about winterizing and I went looking for the pump, but where it sounds like it is I am not seeing a pump.

I feel like calamity is knocking on the door.

This leads to my overly stupid question:
Can I just open up the gray water tank and run the water with the pump on until it stops pumping water, then dump some antifreeze down the traps?

Thanks,
RB

1988 Jayco Jay Series 2600. Built on a Ford Econoline.
No manual, no Experience.
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Old 12-05-2023, 01:12 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by RedBeardTheGray View Post
Can I just open up the gray water tank and run the water with the pump on until it stops pumping water, then dump some antifreeze down the traps?

1988 Jayco Jay Series 2600. Built on a Ford Econoline.
No manual, no Experience.
I hope someone with a model closer to yours will chime in, but in the interim, I'll take a shot.

I think it depends. Depends on how cold it's going to be, how much water gets pumped out. But for me here in Colorado, no that wouldn't be enough. There's always a possibility that things would be ok, nothing bursts, but I wouldn't chance it.

On mine, there's a "winterize" setting for the water valves. I flip the valves and then the pump sucks RV antifreeze up and thru all of the plumbing fixtures.

I think if I were in your shoes, and pumping AF wasn't working, I'd open up all of the low point drains and faucets. Try to get as much water to drain out by gravity. Then I'd use an air compressor to force air into the Water Inlet and see if I could push any remaining water out of the lines.
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Old 12-05-2023, 03:23 PM   #3
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There seems to be no pump valves

I have located the pump. There don't appear to be any valves.
I am going to attach a picture in case I am interpreting a pump wrong... it's entirely possible as I am an IT guy, not a plumber.
Shared DropBox Image of pump

Thanks,
RB
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Old 12-05-2023, 05:17 PM   #4
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Things are much smaller in a rv pump.

It is all included in the round device in the middle top of your pic!
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Old 12-05-2023, 05:36 PM   #5
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Yep, that does not have the winterizing hose set up that came with later years.
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Old 12-05-2023, 05:42 PM   #6
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You can get the kit on AMAZON and it's an easy install.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-C...91&sr=8-5&th=1
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Old 12-05-2023, 06:06 PM   #7
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Things are much smaller in a rv pump.

It is all included in the round device in the middle top of your pic!
I am pretty confused still. I get that it is a pump. I see the inlet from where it must get water out of the holding tank (I assume that is the right one with the flexible hose).
I see the output (I assume that is the one with the rigid PVC plumbing lines).

I don't see any bypass or way of putting the RV Antifreeze into that pump to have it pushed around the lines.
I also could not find any drain for the holding tank.

This leads me back to the other suggestion of using air. I went ahead and ordered a coupler for an air compressor. I don't have one, but I am sure I can find someone who does. I would assume that I hook it up to the "city water" inlet and blow while having my pump on and faucets open to blow it all out of the lines. I would think I would want to do one faucet at a time to keep the pressure fairly high... but maybe not... I don't know.

Thanks,
RB
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Old 12-05-2023, 06:13 PM   #8
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You can get the kit on AMAZON and it's an easy install.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-C...91&sr=8-5&th=1
Thank you! I have ordered that. Can I drain out my water tank by just running my faucet prior to using it?

Thanks again,
RB
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Old 12-05-2023, 06:28 PM   #9
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There should be a valve sticking down underneath the floor to do that. Or next to the tank if it's accessible.
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Old 12-05-2023, 06:36 PM   #10
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I looked earlier and there was no drain below the water port under the RV, but there were two water ports where the door was for "City Water". One had a pull out stopper. I pulled it out, but it did nothing. Maybe it is already low enough? It didn't seem like it was low enough to be a gravity drain for the whole tank, but I have trouble judging height from inside to outside. It very well could be.

I opened the inlet too and I didn't hear any pressure changes.

Thanks again,
RB
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Old 12-05-2023, 06:59 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RedBeardTheGray View Post
I looked earlier and there was no drain below the water port under the RV, but there were two water ports where the door was for "City Water". One had a pull out stopper. I pulled it out, but it did nothing. Maybe it is already low enough? It didn't seem like it was low enough to be a gravity drain for the whole tank, but I have trouble judging height from inside to outside. It very well could be.

I opened the inlet too and I didn't hear any pressure changes.

Thanks again,
RB
It may be on the other side, it's not always under the water connections. On some of the class "C"'s it's hidden by the rear wheels since the tank was placed over the rear axle because of the weight. Look around under the entire rig.
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Old 12-05-2023, 08:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by RedBeardTheGray View Post
This leads me back to the other suggestion of using air. I went ahead and ordered a coupler for an air compressor. I don't have one, but I am sure I can find someone who does. I would assume that I hook it up to the "city water" inlet and blow while having my pump on and faucets open to blow it all out of the lines. I would think I would want to do one faucet at a time to keep the pressure fairly high... but maybe not... I don't know.

Thanks,
RB
We'd better let Grumpy and Norty continue this one. It's clear that I'm completely unfamiliar with your model.

But I will add that, I think, NO, you don't want high pressure if you go the air route. 40, 50 psi max is what I've read. You don't want to pop a fitting. You're aiming for volume of air, not pressure.
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Old 12-07-2023, 09:32 AM   #13
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We'd better let Grumpy and Norty continue this one. It's clear that I'm completely unfamiliar with your model.

But I will add that, I think, NO, you don't want high pressure if you go the air route. 40, 50 psi max is what I've read. You don't want to pop a fitting. You're aiming for volume of air, not pressure.
Thank you for your help.
The only drains I can find after being under the whole RV is the fuel drain for the generator, the grey and the black water.

It's old and weird. I guess it's perfect that it's mine as that description is shared.

I appreciate everyone's help.

Thanks again,
RB
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Old 12-07-2023, 10:28 AM   #14
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Just tossing out that on both of the RVs owned, a 2008 and 2016, the low point drains were well hidden. On the 2008 Coachmen, they were hidden inside the cabinets. Under the sink. On the 2016 Jayco, they're in a storage compartment on the outside.
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Old 12-09-2023, 03:33 PM   #15
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Open the low point drains, open all the faucets, mt the water tank, run pump dry…I never winterize and never had a problem…just get all the water out, dump your tanks too
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Old 12-09-2023, 05:20 PM   #16
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I have a friend who was having trouble winterizing his fifth wheel. He had put ten gallons of RV antifreeze in his fresh water tank. Why…I don’t know. His set up was totally different than mine. He had been using the city water at the campgrounds and not the water pump on the trailer. The pump was not pumping the antifreeze out of the faucets. I think the pump was bad. He had a new shop vac that we hooked up the hose to on the exhaust side. We put the hose in the tank inlet. It worked perfectly to make enough pressure in the tank push the anti freeze out of all of the faucets.
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Old 12-10-2023, 09:27 AM   #17
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my

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Open the low point drains, open all the faucets, mt the water tank, run pump dry…I never winterize and never had a problem…just get all the water out, dump your tanks too
I pretty much do what you said. I only have a couple months from the end of my summer until we leave for warmer weather. So it don’t make since to fully winterize it. Can’t figure out what “ mt the water tank” means?
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Old 12-10-2023, 01:48 PM   #18
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The best way is to make sure you remove the anode rod to the hot water tank, open all the faucets and the grey and black tanks to make sure you have removed all the water., this includes removing the water hose from both ends. Then close off the grey and black and add the pink stuff. Because I have 2 sinks, a toilet and a bathtub I use 2 gallons to each unit. This is what I do and I keep the faucets open and the anode rod set aside. Otherwise its off to warmer climes and hope I did it right. I also have an RV in storage I did the same thing with. Still on the fence about whether or not to sell. I might because I am done towing and after an incident with my disowned daughter probably won't be going camping for a long time. Good luck.
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Old 12-11-2023, 10:28 PM   #19
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If you go on the website http://parts.cunninghamcampers.com/
You should find a manual ….. you probably have to drain the hot water tank and find the bypass valves open all other drains can flush compressed air through all lines individually and /or pump Rv antifreeze depending on cold climate
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