2013 Seneca 37TS front cap seam

[Oldapple]

The vertical seam where the front cap attaches to either side of the coach just behind the passenger door is loose, screws have pulled out.

I had a similar problem on the drivers side about 3 yrs ago, the screws appeared to be sacking out. I tightened the screws and added extras and that side seems to be holding.

My concern is what’s going on and since the screws are pulling out and appear rusty will there be good metal to screw it back into.

Thoughts? Anyone else see this issue?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Oldapple

The vertical seam where the front cap attaches to either side of the coach just behind the passenger door is loose, screws have pulled out.

I had a similar problem on the drivers side about 3 yrs ago, the screws appeared to be sacking out. I tightened the screws and added extras and that side seems to be holding.

My concern is what’s going on and since the screws are pulling out and appear rusty will there be good metal to screw it back into.

Thoughts? Anyone else see this issue?

I just had to repair my passenger side seam also. Seems to be a common issue on our units.

Like others, I did it myself by taking a razor knife and carefully cutting the sealant on each side of the trim strip where it meets the body. Then, on a warm day in the sun if possible, carefully remove the painted vinyl trim cover. Then I cleaned up the metal backer strip and the cover piece, that was an all day job using Goo Gone. I replaced all the existing screws with 1" X #10 stainless steel screws, the originals were only #8 screws. Then I drilled new holes in between each original screw and added another, essentially doubling the number there. Every screw tightened down into something, squeezing out the butyl tape under the strip. I cleaned things up (again) so the trim piece could hook over the edges of the metal strip. I laid the trim piece in the sun for a while to soften it up, then I placed it back on the unit matching the paint lines. Lastly I carefully applied beads of Geocel ProFlexRV clear sealant to the edges of the trim piece and also used that to glue the lower "L" cover back into place.

It looks as good as it did when I bought it new! Driver side still looks okay, but I will do it the same way either later this year or early next.

[Robbbyr]

Oops, forgot the "After" picture.

[Oldapple]

Thank you very much for sharing your experience and knowledge! I'm starting my repair this week!

[whporwil]

X2 the right side of mine opened up because all the screws were snapped off. Used bigger and more screws to do the repair. 2017 37 rb

[RVermont]

I also did the drivers side two weeks ago. I added extra screws and larger size as well. As noted heat and sunshine helps working with the trim piece. Keeps it flexible and easy to snap it back on.

[JUTTERB]

Any secret on removing the painted trim piece? is it glued on or is it simply snapped onto the metal piece in between the fiberglass body parts?

Also, am I right in assuming the use self tapping screws again when repairing?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by JUTTERB

Any secret on removing the painted trim piece? is it glued on or is it simply snapped onto the metal piece in between the fiberglass body parts?

Also, am I right in assuming the use self tapping screws again when repairing?

The cover piece is snapped over the raised edges of the underlying metal piece, that metal piece is screwed into the area where the front cap and the side wall overlap. On my 2014 it was obvious my unit was painted after they installed and caulked the trim piece, so it is necessary to cut along the edges to remove the trim or risk damaging the paint significantly.

To remove my cover piece I very carefully sliced along the front and rear edge with a razor knife. Then it can be removed and the paint will be minimally disturbed on both the body and the trim piece. You re-caulk the trim piece when installing, and in most cases you can't tell it was ever removed. You will need a warm day or a warm facility to remove and reinstall so that the trim is pliable. Trying to do it on a colder day may lead to more difficulties.

I used stainless steel sheet metal screws, going one size bigger (diameter) than the plain steel screws Jayco used. I also placed an additional screw between each original Jayco screw. I did pre-drill the metal piece first where the new screws were placed and drilled a pilot hole into the body for the additional screws. I did not use a dedicated self-tapping screw, the stainless sheet metal screws did fine cutting their own threads into the material.

[JUTTERB]

Thanks for the tips - looks like a project that I’ll have to tackle this winter as my drivers seam has completely come apart ( 2013 @ 24k miles). I noticed right before a trip we had planned up to Yellowstone so I used some marine epoxy (JB Weld) to try to hold it together until I could fix correctly - it worked OK for part of the trip. unfortunately I’ll have a bit of cleanup to do when fixing this right....

[Rustynuts]

I have kept up on threads about this issue and have even thought about being proactive and just pull the cover and check/repair this winter as I really don’t want to ever deal with this while on the road. Since there is so much flex and movement I plan on using Stainless Exploding type rivets instead of screws and adding rivets in between existing holes.

[Bruceter]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

I have kept up on threads about this issue and have even thought about being proactive and just pull the cover and check/repair this winter as I really don’t want to ever deal with this while on the road. Since there is so much flex and movement I plan on using Stainless Exploding type rivets instead of screws and adding rivets in between existing holes.

I’m thinking along your line Rusty of maybe being proactive, however two thoughts coming to mind. First, if one puts in bigger screws and or exploding rivets is this going to hold that joint just too well that another area is prone to fail? Such as a front cap cracking or a side wall cracking and or separating? And second is this going to be a reoccurring problem or is this the frame and body finally settling into each other? I know on our TS the left side slide wall has been adjusted in height twice, first the front end of the slide and now the rear slide. So is this the whole unit still setting in?
Just some thoughts!

Bruce

[Doormandan]

Hi All
I have a 2014 Seneca with 37K on the coach and have been fighting this issue for a few years. I have removed and tightened and also removed and replaced/added screws. At this point my molding is destroyed from both being removed so many times and then returning home this weekend the passenger side came half way off by it self and had to be bent in two and bunged to the awning. I'm considering going to a non painted metal strip solution (alum or stainless) and shaver head rivets. Has anyone used rivets and also as said above if you did is there a risk of total failure?

[SloPoke]

.... and this finally struck us - on the drivers side. Did the same fix as what is called out here, larger screws in the stripped holes and new holes that were pre-drilled before sheet metal screws tried to find the 1.5" wide .055" thin metal backing in the sidewall. Most of the screws at the top of the trim missed the frame member completely. (from the factory that way)

[Doormandan]

Are you saying the metal is only .055 less than 1/16" and they missed it also?

[MD3]

I'd be worried that once rivets work loose then a person has to drill them out to replace them.

Do the exploding rivets not work loose like other rivets ?


_

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by MD3

I'd be worried that once rivets work loose then a person has to drill them out to replace them.

Do the exploding rivets not work loose like other rivets ?


_

I have used the exploding type rivets on many things over the years, all vehicle related and have never had one loosen up. One project was a 1968 M35A2 Deuce and a Half and that truck will loosen your teeth just driving it and not one ever came loose. The problem with the screws is the metal you are screwing into is so thin which easily strip out from vibration. Even if a rivet would loosen up a but, it would not pull out and fail like a screw can. Even with putting in a bigger screw, you only are getting a minimal bite in the thin material. If a rivet did loosen up, it is no big deal to drill them out and install new. I plan on doing mine before it fails, pull a screw one at an time and replace with a rivet, then go back and add another rivet between each screw and seal it up.

[Doormandan]

Thank you all. I ordered the rivets today. Now since my molding is trash I need to figure out where to get replacements

[75462]

http://https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=UUs6gk7fiEapU4bUNbLfTEDA&v=aP8lZfk38VQ


This guy has some really good RV repair videos.

[jack4540]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

I have used the exploding type rivets on many things over the years, all vehicle related and have never had one loosen up. One project was a 1968 M35A2 Deuce and a Half and that truck will loosen your teeth just driving it and not one ever came loose. The problem with the screws is the metal you are screwing into is so thin which easily strip out from vibration. Even if a rivet would loosen up a but, it would not pull out and fail like a screw can. Even with putting in a bigger screw, you only are getting a minimal bite in the thin material. If a rivet did loosen up, it is no big deal to drill them out and install new. I plan on doing mine before it fails, pull a screw one at an time and replace with a rivet, then go back and add another rivet between each screw and seal it up.

Have you had the chance to install the rivets yet and if did how did go ?

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by jack4540

Have you had the chance to install the rivets yet and if did how did go ?

Just gathering up everything to tackle it, I’ll add info and pics here when I do it. I still show no signs of separation but will do it before it happens.