2016 Melbourne 24K folding mattress

[petersrc2]

Originally Posted by Pfflyer

I agree with the mess. I thought about adding some shallow drawers in the front but storage space isn't a problem for us. I would like to make all the space in the entertainment center over the cab a little more friendly and usable.

Same thoughts re: "Entertainment Center" here, Pf
If you come up with some "innovative shelving, or", please share ideas and pics. We currently store some infrequently used "things" up there, in plastic containers.
I installed some dark solar-tint film behind the patterned-glass doors. This prevents being able to see what's being stored there. The dark color also ties in neatly with coloration of TV Screen. (Pics didn't turn out well enough to post)
Little by Little, we're getting the unit "personalized" to our tastes.

[Pfflyer]

Good idea on the tint. I bet it looks good. We use that storage for the same thing. Mine is at the dealer getting the decal on the fridge access door replaced and just about all the slide seals changed. When I get it back I may go ahead and tint those windows and look into the storage solution. I got to test my sewer hose storage and cup holders last weekend and they worked great.

[petersrc2]

Originally Posted by Pfflyer

Good idea on the tint. I bet it looks good. We use that storage for the same thing. Mine is at the dealer getting the decal on the fridge access door replaced and just about all the slide seals changed. When I get it back I may go ahead and tint those windows and look into the storage solution. I got to test my sewer hose storage and cup holders last weekend and they worked great.

Thanks
I must have missed reading 'bout your cupholders, and sewer hose storage.
I installed a six inch plastic pipe with screw-on end caps, beneath the coach, and behind rear wheels. It's full width of Coach.
This nicely stores a 20' +length of sewer hose, plus two lengths of 4" perforated, plastic pipe halved longitudinally. I use the lengths of 4" pipe to neatly support the sewer hose running from Coach to "dump", when in a full-service RV site. Works well.
I won't be back to RV for a couple of days, but will try to get some pics of install.

[Pfflyer]

Originally Posted by petersrc2

Thanks
I must have missed reading 'bout your cupholders, and sewer hose storage.
I installed a six inch plastic pipe with screw-on end caps, beneath the coach, and behind rear wheels. It's full width of Coach.
This nicely stores a 20' +length of sewer hose, plus two lengths of 4" perforated, plastic pipe halved longitudinally. I use the lengths of 4" pipe to neatly support the sewer hose running from Coach to "dump", when in a full-service RV site. Works well.
I won't be back to RV for a couple of days, but will try to get some pics of install.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5...ods-49121.html

[campaholix]

Originally Posted by petersrc2

Same thoughts re: "Entertainment Center" here, Pf

If you come up with some "innovative shelving, or", please share ideas and pics. We currently store some infrequently used "things" up there, in plastic containers.

I installed some dark solar-tint film behind the patterned-glass doors. This prevents being able to see what's being stored there. The dark color also ties in neatly with coloration of TV Screen. (Pics didn't turn out well enough to post)

Little by Little, we're getting the unit "personalized" to our tastes.

Tinting the glass is a good idea. I put a small motion-sensor LED light just inside the double doors to provide some light when I'm digging around. Mostly we use it for clothes storage for longer trips...more immediate/daily use items are stored in the cabinet by the bed and the wardrobe.
We went to The Container Store and got stackable storage cubes with slide out drawers for both the wardrobe and smaller bedroom closet. Keeps things organized and easy to find (see thru cubes).
We also have a couple collapsible canvas containers with divided pockets in the overhead front storage. Easy to reach in and grab the whole thing out to get what you need versus clambering around in that bottomless pit of a storage hole.


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[Pfflyer]

Originally Posted by Dnbgould

Tinting the glass is a good idea. I put a small motion-sensor LED light just inside the double doors to provide some light when I'm digging around. Mostly we use it for clothes storage for longer trips...more immediate/daily use items are stored in the cabinet by the bed and the wardrobe.
We went to The Container Store and got stackable storage cubes with slide out drawers for both the wardrobe and smaller bedroom closet. Keeps things organized and easy to find (see thru cubes).
We also have a couple collapsible canvas containers with divided pockets in the overhead front storage. Easy to reach in and grab the whole thing out to get what you need versus clambering around in that bottomless pit of a storage hole.


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Good ideas. Easier and probably better than something I could make.

[freetoroam]

Originally Posted by jkaras7

Our 2017 Melbourne 24L also has a folded mattress. Not experiencing any of the issues noted by Pfflyer. We did add a 3" memory foam topper as the mattress is much too hard for both of us. It made a huge difference and the topper folds up okay with the topper. Just have to hold the mattress folded when retracting the slide.

Jkaras7, if you don't mind, which brand mattress topper did you go with? We have a 24L as well and sleeping on the mattress is akin to sleeping on a concrete slab. Thanks.

[jkaras7]

Originally Posted by freetoroam

Jkaras7, if you don't mind, which brand mattress topper did you go with? We have a 24L as well and sleeping on the mattress is akin to sleeping on a concrete slab. Thanks.

We purchased the LUCID 3-inch Gel Memory Foam Mattress Topper - Queen on Amazon. Had to trim it a bit as it is a bit longer than the short Queen mattress in the Melbourne. BTW, agree with you that it is like sleeping on a concrete slab. It made a world of difference.

[freetoroam]

Thanks, appreciate that.

[pamanc]

Just saw a 14" thick gel foam mattress at Costco. If it can be shortened.... has anyone tested to see if it folds enough when we bring the slide in? Current mattress is "split" and folds as the slide comes in.


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[Pfflyer]

Originally Posted by pamanc

Just saw a 14" thick gel foam mattress at Costco. If it can be shortened.... has anyone tested to see if it folds enough when we bring the slide in? Current mattress is "split" and folds as the slide comes in.


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How will you handle the step down?

[petersrc2]

Originally Posted by pamanc

Just saw a 14" thick gel foam mattress at Costco. If it can be shortened.... has anyone tested to see if it folds enough when we bring the slide in? Current mattress is "split" and folds as the slide comes in.


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I think a 14" mattress would likely not "double-up" onto itself without cutting the to-be-folded portion and replicating a "hinge"of sorts, similar to the OEM mattress. ????

[pamanc]

Originally Posted by Pfflyer

How will you handle the step down?

Sorry I don't understand....


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[pamanc]

Originally Posted by petersrc2

I think a 14" mattress would likely not "double-up" onto itself without cutting the to-be-folded portion and replicating a "hinge"of sorts, similar to the OEM mattress. ????

I suspect you are correct. Just trying to figure out something more comfortable


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[Pfflyer]

Originally Posted by pamanc

Sorry I don't understand....


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The platform the mattress rests on is not the same height. The foot of the platform is about 2-3/4" lower so that the head can slide over it when the slide is in. Our current mattress is thicker at the foot .

[pamanc]

I haven't realized that so now I will pay attention! We haven't taken the mattress off the platform I guess. Thanks for the info!


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[Pfflyer]

Look at the pictures in post 1 of this thread for what I am talking about. I would think a foam mattress that is rolled up in a small bundle for shipping could be folded. The only issue I see besides the platform being different heights would be the blinds on the side windows. Our topper is only 2" thick so it goes in between the shades that stick out pretty easy. Someone with a thicker topper hopefully will respond how theirs get past the shades. A 14" thick mattress may have issues getting past the blinds but may work if it is not folded on to itself but resting on the bathroom wall. I am going to try again with Mastercraft to build a custom foam mattress that will take care of the gap in the photos in the beginning of this thread.

[pamanc]

Originally Posted by Pfflyer

Look at the pictures in post 1 of this thread for what I am talking about. I would think a foam mattress that is rolled up in a small bundle for shipping could be folded. The only issue I see besides the platform being different heights would be the blinds on the side windows. Our topper is only 2" thick so it goes in between the shades that stick out pretty easy. Someone with a thicker topper hopefully will respond how theirs get past the shades. A 14" thick mattress may have issues getting past the blinds but may work if it is not folded on to itself but resting on the bathroom wall. I am going to try again with Mastercraft to build a custom foam mattress that will take care of the gap in the photos in the beginning of this thread.

Well now I get it. I have followed this thread but did not catch what was being said. I thought it was all about the split mattress. Now I see the uneven platform. Thanks for explaining


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[Sherbart]

Let me first say that 2 years later, Jayco still does not acknowledge their mistake. We purchased a 2018 Melbourne 24KP and it had the same problem. After the first night, we purchased a 3” topper thinking that it would fix the but no luck. I have chronic back pain and the 3” drop was enough that I was miserable on our 10 day trip to Yellowstone last week. We came back and called Jayco because we saw the problem and assumed that they gave us the wrong mattress. They blamed the person cutting the bed frame and told us to take it to Dallas (5 hours away) to have it looked at. After seeing your post we realized that it was a defective design in all of them. We used your same idea except we used door hinges to attach it to the existing frame and then placed felt strips under it to prevent any rubbing of the cheap wood. Using the hinges allows it to stay connected all the time and we don’t need to move it around. Sorry that one pic is upside down.

[oldmanAZ]

Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting the pics.