2019 Greyhawk owners and winterizing

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Rvorbust

You can get a hand pump for $10-15 and pump antifreeze into the black tank flush line. Water can get caught in it.

How do you get antifreeze into the fill line going to the fresh water tank and how do you get antifreeze into the line that runs from the water tank to the water pump?

[spark of insanity]

Are we allowed to post links? Because I have a to die for video on winterizing RV. I love it. I use it step by step to remember what not to forget. And yes. Make sure your hot water tank is sealed off from the hose lines otherwise you will get weird tasting water for a while. I have not done that yet. Good luck.

[spark of insanity]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Wait... what... did I just read your WIFE winterizes your rig???

Really?

Wow, she's a keeper... I have a hard enough time getting mine just to make me a sandwich...

OK Male person. I am female and I do my own winterizing. My husband has no clue. The TT is mine and he just goes along with the flow. So yes I winterize, clean the awning, have someone else do the roof because I have vertigo and making sure it is ready to cover for the winter. Otherwise, I am not ready for winter.

[Patchesrv]

Please post

[spark of insanity]

Here is my go to for winterizing. 16 steps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLQ5Xo6uNkk

[GrayHawk]

Outstanding link as it is just the same way I do my rig........... except every time I forget to reverse the scree on the water inlet until I keep trying to get antifreeze in, then my brain starts to work correctly and I go and reverse the screen and say to myself ...dummy, dummy

[ALJO]

Winterizing:

I do over a hundred all types of RV's each season.

My steps:

1. De-pressurize water system and set the WH valves in bypass position (2 or 3 valve system) remove the WH plug.
2. Recommended: blow the lines with air using the standard reducer.
open all valves be sure no more water is coming out. and if you have an outside shower don't forget to open them to.

Close all taps and start your AF fluid.

Remove all liquid from your Fresh-, Grey- and Black water tanks and close the valves and put the cap on.

3. Some have a 2 way valve on the pump suction line, with one suction hose to the tank and another with a 2 ft. suction hose you can put in a bottle. Set the valve towards the short suction hose and let the pump suck the AF. If you have only one connection at the pump, remove it and install a short hose at the suction side and put it in the AF bottle.
Turn on the pump and open the farthest taps first. Then the rest.
For higher end units with a panel set in correct position as on the printed decal and use the AF inlet connection. Turn on the pump and open the taps one by one.

Final. Open the low point drains or remove the caps.

The drains should have enough AF in them and the tanks are a mix with water and AF and can expand.

Important is that the pump gets AF through it, otherwise cap the outlet line and remove the pump. Filters should be bypassed or removed, they will take up to 1.5 liters. From experience not many use the internal filters (usual awkward place) so remove them.

Occasionally the onboard pump doesn't suck up the AF with an outside connection, then I use a standard RV pump to help the onboard pump through this outside connection.

Since there is NO-Standardization in the RV industry I use miscellaneous hoses with connections. Some access to the WH or pump are horrible. There must be no pride in workmanship or engineering in the US RV manufacturing industry. To many want a free piece of the pie, while workers are under paid.

[spark of insanity]

Now here is where I screw up. Trying to remember the order when it is time to clean out the pink stuff in April. My screws are not like the others and boy does it get complicated. Now to figure out why after spending a state of the art water saver shower head I still run out of hot water. Time for a new hot water tank. O well. On to the pink stuff.

[jeffro01]

Sorry for sounding confused but do you guys blow out your system AND add anti-freeze or one or the other? Also, any recommendations for anti-freeze and quantity? Just finished what's likely our last trip of the season so going to go ahead and winterize correctly...

Thanks,
Jeff

[spark of insanity]

I do not blow out. Just get rid as much water as possible then add the pink stuff. Then remember the order in spring. IMO

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Important is that the pump gets AF through it, otherwise cap the outlet line and remove the pump. Filters should be bypassed or removed, they will take up to 1.5 liters. From experience not many use the internal filters (usual awkward place) so remove them.

OK, what about the line that feeds the water tank from the control panel (the one from City Fill). How do you get AF into that line. Also, how about the line that goes from the water tank to the pump? Same question.

[ALJO]

water tank line to pump drains itself the same for the tank fill.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by ALJO

water tank line to pump drains itself the same for the tank fill.

I believe we all assume this but can you actually confirm it because that would surely simplify the process.

[Love To Travel 2]

Originally Posted by jeffro01

Sorry for sounding confused but do you guys blow out your system AND add anti-freeze or one or the other? Also, any recommendations for anti-freeze and quantity? Just finished what's likely our last trip of the season so going to go ahead and winterize correctly...

Thanks,
Jeff

I do both. I set my air compressor to about 30 psi and I blow everything out, faucets, both showers, toilet, etc. I made an adaptor with a short piece of garden hose, a male end, and the air compressor chuck. I also use the adaptor to blow out the black tank flush. Does it need blown out? I really don't know, but I do it anyway. I usually purchase the RV anti-freeze at Walmart in the spring or summer, when it is in stock. There are times in the fall/winter when it is impossible to find. I use about a gallon or so for the lines, then pour the rest of the second gallon in the traps, toilet, black tank and grey tank. It's about 3 or 4 dollars per gallon. Don't forget to bypass the hot water heater and remove the whole house filter. And the ice maker if you have one.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I believe we all assume this but can you actually confirm it because that would surely simplify the process.

That would be something I would also like confirmed.

I haven't slid under the rig yet to actually confirm which way those two particular watar lines run, but base on looking at other lines when I was under there, Jayco runs lines, up, down and all around.

I'd be surprised if they maintained the correct pitch on those two lines so they could gravity drain, considering the length from the tank to the pump..

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

I'd be surprised if they maintained the correct pitch on those two lines so they could gravity drain, considering the length from the tank to the pump..

I've been under mine.
Not a single moment of thought was given to pitch or run.


The only thought was "How fast can I get this done so I can go home early..."

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by pconroy

I've been under mine.
Not a single moment of thought was given to pitch or run.


The only thought was "How fast can I get this done so I can go home early..."

I agree with that. I've been under mine for general things, and see wiring and plumbing just ran to get it in there and move to the next project. I noticed the black tank flush runs up and down, so that's a line to winterize too.

I'd be really surprised if the water lines to and from the water tank have any "thought design" to them.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

I agree with that. I've been under mine for general things, and see wiring and plumbing just ran to get it in there and move to the next project. I noticed the black tank flush runs up and down, so that's a line to winterize too.

I'd be really surprised if the water lines to and from the water tank have any "thought design" to them.

I feel that this stupid complex valve station has overly complicated what is supposed to a simple job of winterizing. It used to take me 20 minutes, now I will be forcing antifreeze into multiple lines that jayco did not properly allow to be winterized, as if only certain lines are important and not others. Just dumb.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by jeffro01

Sorry for sounding confused but do you guys blow out your system AND add anti-freeze or one or the other? Also, any recommendations for anti-freeze and quantity? Just finished what's likely our last trip of the season so going to go ahead and winterize correctly...

Thanks,
Jeff

I recommend both. I was always amazed how much water blew out despite draining all low points. This would dilute the antifreeze if left in. If this valve system does not allow all lines to be winterized, that is more reason to blow water out first in case this is the only protection for some of the plumbing.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I recommend both. I was always amazed how much water blew out despite draining all low points. This would dilute the antifreeze if left in. If this valve system does not allow all lines to be winterized, that is more reason to blow water out first in case this is the only protection for some of the plumbing.

This is what I'm going to do after our last trip. Anything that can be done to keep the AF from being diluted is a plus. As we all know there are a bunch of low spots in the plumbing, and just blowing out the lines won't get it all out. It will settle back in the low spots.

So, after blowing out the majority of the water, filling it with AF should hopefully protect any low spots in the piping.