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Old 04-07-2022, 04:43 PM   #1
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Hi All,

Husband is on a fishing trip and away from the phone, kids and I were loading up to camp this weekend but when I turned the key on our RV all i got was nothing. The house battery seems okay, e.g. lights, radio and when I mash in the Aux button and turn the key nothing. The FOB doesn't unlock the doors so I believe the chassis battery is kaput. I have a jumper (8.0 ltr gas or 6.0 diesel) I just need to know where that dead battery is located so I can jump it. Any help would be great.
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Old 04-07-2022, 05:15 PM   #2
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Chassis battery is right under the hood. Are you holding the aux start in while you turn the key?
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Old 04-07-2022, 05:16 PM   #3
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Open the hood of the truck. Battery is on the passenger's side up front. I suggest getting one of these for these type problems. Much easier than jumper cables and another vehicle.



https://www.amazon.com/AVAPOW-Starte...dDbGljaz10cnVl
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Old 04-07-2022, 05:17 PM   #4
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Chassis battery is right under the hood. Are you holding the aux start in while you turn the key?

Mine did not work when my battery died.
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Old 04-07-2022, 05:54 PM   #5
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No I am not holding the button in. Should I hold it in until it starts and then release? Thank You!
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Old 04-07-2022, 06:02 PM   #6
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Well, neighbors husband tested battery and it read 11.0 amps. Said I should replace the battery instead of jumping.
He also showed me where I left the ignition on ACC. I need to read up!!
Thanks so much everybody!!
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Old 04-07-2022, 07:53 PM   #7
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No I am not holding the button in. Should I hold it in until it starts and then release? Thank You!
Yes

Hold button in, insert key, turn key, start engine, stop pressing button

Easy peasy
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Old 04-08-2022, 11:50 AM   #8
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Both chassis and house batteries should be on trickle chargers if they sit for more than a few days at a time. Run the wiring for the chassis battery in the grille so you don't even have to open the hood. If the house battery is under the step, run the wiring under the coach so you don't have to block the stairs.

Every time I park it I plug them in. 1 dead battery in 7 years.
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Old 04-08-2022, 01:01 PM   #9
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Both chassis and house batteries should be on trickle chargers if they sit for more than a few days at a time. Run the wiring for the chassis battery in the grille so you don't even have to open the hood. If the house battery is under the step, run the wiring under the coach so you don't have to block the stairs.

Every time I park it I plug them in. 1 dead battery in 7 years.
Tell that to the storage place

I NEED POWER Foglight says so!!
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Old 04-08-2022, 03:13 PM   #10
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Tell that to the storage place

I NEED POWER Foglight says so!!

Small solar panels. I have one going for each battery. I am in covered parking but can get the panels into the afternoon sun and that is about all you need here.
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Old 04-08-2022, 03:26 PM   #11
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I have read from others a different approach, so I suspect whatever works best for each of us.

What I recommend, is that if the Chassis battery is dead, then start the generator (or be on shore power), and then press and hold the emergency start button and do so for a few minutes minimum as that circuit is only an 80a circuit so you need to provide a little time for the chassis battery to build back up a charge. Then after waiting a few minutes, while still holding the button try to start the engine. If the engine doesn't start because the starting battery is still too weak, then give it more time holding the emergency start button in, as the longer you do so the more charge the chassis battery will receive. ~CA
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Old 04-08-2022, 03:36 PM   #12
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Well, neighbors husband tested battery and it read 11.0 amps. Said I should replace the battery instead of jumping.
He also showed me where I left the ignition on ACC. I need to read up!!
Thanks so much everybody!!
Anytime someone helps another, that is a good thing and certainly something to be appreciated. However, sometimes people try to help and don't really understand well enough what they are helping with in order to provide proper help. So with staying on the high road and being careful not to say anything overly negative, anytime someone tells you something like the battery only has 11 amps in it and it should be replaced, then either they meant something else or they don't really understand batteries very well.

Point being, I wouldn't rush out and purchase a new battery with that recommendation. I would simply charge it back up and see what happens or take it to an automotive parts store that can recharge and test it for you (usually for free).

Once you get the engine running the alternator will charge the battery or if you have a battery charger that would be even better, either way. ~CA
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Old 04-08-2022, 10:04 PM   #13
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I'm guessing they meant 11 volts.
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Old 04-08-2022, 10:08 PM   #14
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Well, neighbors husband tested battery and it read 11.0 amps. Said I should replace the battery instead of jumping.
He also showed me where I left the ignition on ACC. I need to read up!!
Thanks so much everybody!!

I agree w/ Craig. Glad you got help, but don't buy a new battery just yet. If you've left the key to ACC, if you've run the battery down only a couple of times, it should recover by just driving.

Letting the engine alternator recharge the battery. See if the battery recovers and continues to hold a good charge. If it doesn't, if it consistently won't start the engine, then yeah, time for new battery.

Like craig said - many, many places will test your battery's health for free. There's a Battery and Bulbs place close by and they've done that for me.
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Old 04-13-2022, 01:58 PM   #15
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Tell that to the storage place

I NEED POWER Foglight says so!!
Solar works well!!!
even in storage…
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Old 04-13-2022, 03:16 PM   #16
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I confess i didn't read every response. It appears you got it started.

PROBLEM: After this episode, your chassis battery is probably no good. Once you drain a battery dead, it's never the same. Furthermore, many batteries die from internal shorts and other problems that make the battery essentially useless. These failures are usually catastrophic and instant...one minute it's fine and the next it's not. Every recent failure in any of my vehicle batteries has been this...not just a slow death.

You can jump start "around" the dead battery, but it may not be reliable for very long.

I urge you to consider replacing that chassis battery before you are stranded far from home and need to call roadside service to install a new one at exorbitant prices.
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Old 04-13-2022, 05:49 PM   #17
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DEFINITELY get one of the "hot-shot" type jump start units. Don't rely on battery jumper cables. I've read of people damaging the ECM (computer control) on both vehicles when using cables. Most of them also include an air compressor and USB connection so you have a multipurpose unit. The only "downside" is that they contain a battery so you have to plug them in at times to keep them charged. At Costco, Sam's club, Amazon, etc. they're typically around $ 75.00 or so (maybe more now with inflation) but a heck of a lot less trouble than finding jumper cables, getting another vehicle to jump from, and maybe damaging the ECM.
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Old 04-13-2022, 06:22 PM   #18
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Solar works well!!!
even in storage…

Unless you are in covered storage and then it is iffy. I use panels hooked to the battery and set into the area where the sun shines.
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Old 04-18-2022, 01:49 PM   #19
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DEFINITELY get one of the "hot-shot" type jump start units. Don't rely on battery jumper cables. I've read of people damaging the ECM (computer control) on both vehicles when using cables. Most of them also include an air compressor and USB connection so you have a multipurpose unit. The only "downside" is that they contain a battery so you have to plug them in at times to keep them charged. At Costco, Sam's club, Amazon, etc. they're typically around $ 75.00 or so (maybe more now with inflation) but a heck of a lot less trouble than finding jumper cables, getting another vehicle to jump from, and maybe damaging the ECM.
If you decide on a jump start unit, like the ones he is mentioning, DON'T GO CHEAP. The cheap ones use gel cell batteries and if you don't keep them charged properly they go bad before you need them again. The newer ones, and more expensive, use lithium batteries which will give you lots better service. They may even last until you need them, unlike the older ones.

As mentioned in earlier posts, a battery that has been discharged beyond 50% has been damaged. Not necessarily fatally but usually if it's more than 3 years old and has been depleted a couple of times, you'll be better off with a new battery. I'm partial to AGM batteries, even though they cost more. They are more forgiving than normal flooded cell batteries and supposed to hold a charge for a longer time. If you let the rig sit for a while and don't put a charger on it as suggested by others, do put a disconnect on the battery.
Like this one Battery-Disconnect and disconnect the battery during periods of non-usage.
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