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Old 10-21-2017, 08:16 PM   #1
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3rd AC for Seneca

Guys

I have a 2016 Seneca
We're in Texas and most of the time we use our rig it's 100+ degrees.

Given the poorly insulted truck cab area, and my 3 kids going in and out of the door, I can't keep it cool. I'm thinking of adding a 3rd AC. I don't need it hooked up through the ducting, just a drop in unit with power and a control knob right there on the unit.

I'm not planning on trying to install myself, I'll have my dealer do it. I'm figuring on $2500-ish? I'm not worried about that price on a $180k coach. It'd be worth it to me.

Just wanted to see if anyone has done this or any advice/reco's/warnings

Thanks!
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Old 10-21-2017, 08:30 PM   #2
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I'd look into an 11,000 btu because of weight and also power requirements. You could have the dealer wire it to a seperate 20 amp cord which you could connect directly to the pedestal. Wire mold does wonders for projects like this.
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Old 10-21-2017, 09:11 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by TexasSeneca View Post
Guys

I have a 2016 Seneca
We're in Texas and most of the time we use our rig it's 100+ degrees.

Given the poorly insulted truck cab area, and my 3 kids going in and out of the door, I can't keep it cool. I'm thinking of adding a 3rd AC. I don't need it hooked up through the ducting, just a drop in unit with power and a control knob right there on the unit.

I'm not planning on trying to install myself, I'll have my dealer do it. I'm figuring on $2500-ish? I'm not worried about that price on a $180k coach. It'd be worth it to me.

Just wanted to see if anyone has done this or any advice/reco's/warnings

Thanks!
My TS only has one other ceiling opening, in the bathroom. Not much help there. Perhaps other Seneca models have another ceiling vent that could be used, otherwise you have to have the installer punch a hole through the roof and frame it in to accommodate another A/C. Plus run the wiring to the (new) opening. Maybe Jayco could supply a roof print that would help locate a possible new hole.

I agree the cab is a big source of heat, I use reflective covers inside my cab windows and my wife repurposed the rear bedspread to make a drape for the cab. Between the two things are much better. Last summer at Lake Mead we were in 115 degree heat in direct sun and my two A/Cs were able to keep it around 80 inside. By the way the picture is NOT Nevada, but it shows the window covers!

As far as the electrical aspect with 50-amp service you should have enough capacity to run three when plugged in without running a separate cord to the campground power post. You have 12,000 watts available, but capacity in the load center might be tight. On generator it might be difficult to start all three with only 8,000 watts of power available if you try to run anything else.
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:13 PM   #4
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I didn't figure my 8k gen would run all 3 ACs but we almost never boondock

I am assuming my dealer will just punch through. Worries me a little about roof leaking but the 2 ACs are just not working for us in this part of the country. If I can't cool this coach I'll trade it for a Class A with 3 ACs

We use reflective window shades in the front windows and windshield but the cab is still incredibly hot. I've heard a more quilted drape is helpful like you said. We'll try that. The paper thin sheet it came with doesn't do much.

We love this coach and the bedroom with its own AC cools great, but the other AC is responsible for the rest of the coach and it struggles in this heat down here

I've got buddy with a Class A Berkshire XL that just added a 3rd unit and he's had success so far
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Old 10-22-2017, 05:32 AM   #5
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I haven't had my Seneca out there yet but when I had my old toy hauler trailer with only one AC out to visit my kids in Las Vegas' 114 degree heat the AC struggled a bit, to say the least. I strategically placed a couple of fans in the trailer and it made a big difference.

Just a thought. I wonder if the Seneca, with 2 ACs, doesn't have enough air or if it's a distribution issue. As you said, the bedroom cools well. Try putting a fan in the bedroom and moving that cool air up to the front.

I also use the heart shield window shades in the cab and I would block off the cab and over cab bunk areas during the day. The bunk area holds a lot of heat.

If Texas is anything like Florida, it's only unbearably hot for 11 months a year

Good luck
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:32 AM   #6
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On my 2014 the ceiling duct system is interconnected front and rear, either A/C unit, or both, can feed the system. If I leave the controllable (round) ceiling ducts all open the bedroom is noticeably cooler than the front living area, it is just a volume effect. Especially on a TS with its opposing front slideouts and resultant large living area.

So when it was extreme outside I would close the bedroom ceiling outlets thereby forcing most of the airflow forward. Just what leaked out in the bedroom would keep it tolerable there while helping greatly up in the living area. Opening one or two of the front "chill grills" would keep the front from whistling due to the high airflow with both fans turned on high speed and on the continuous run setting.

Is the duct system still interconnected front and rear in the newer units?
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:27 AM   #7
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On my 2014 the ceiling duct system is interconnected front and rear, either A/C unit, or both, can feed the system. If I leave the controllable (round) ceiling ducts all open the bedroom is noticeably cooler than the front living area, it is just a volume effect. Especially on a TS with its opposing front slideouts and resultant large living area.

So when it was extreme outside I would close the bedroom ceiling outlets thereby forcing most of the airflow forward. Just what leaked out in the bedroom would keep it tolerable there while helping greatly up in the living area. Opening one or two of the front "chill grills" would keep the front from whistling due to the high airflow with both fans turned on high speed and on the continuous run setting.

Is the duct system still interconnected front and rear in the newer units?
Yes, still like yours.
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:40 AM   #8
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We also find the Freightliner cab to be a big "heat sink" for both hot and cold. AND we use a large heavy quilt to insulate the cab of the truck The reflective panels on the windshield and side windows, also helps. In extreme temps, hot or cold, we also find bringing in the slides really reduces the surface that has to be cooled or heat. This last year, we had awnings put over all the windows on the cabin and this really seems to help with the heat. Texas or North Dakota, at the wrong time of the year can really be a challenge.

I would suggest working with what you have and maybe running the a/c fan or a portable fan, all the time.
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Old 10-22-2017, 08:01 AM   #9
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A blanket that is very lightweight but has fantastic insulating properties is the "poncho liner" that came in use during the Vietnam (still in use today). These things are fantastic and can be found (new, slightly used, etc.) on eBay. I use one behind the large privacy curtain (in addition to a Solar Shield on the windows) and the difference is very significant. Today they are also referred to as a "woobie". I bought 5 from a military surplus store on eBay....they were used but in very good condition ($23 a piece). We just tuck it in between the over-cab mattress and and the mattress frame and use the brackets for the ladder to tie it off. They come in the old woodland camo or the more recent gray camo. I also discovered quite a bit of heat works it way thru the cab ceiling up thru the over-cab bunk base so I need to try laying a couple of woobies (or something) under the mattress. Check out eBay - poncho liner / woobie.
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Old 10-22-2017, 10:55 AM   #10
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Seems to me if you have the cash and are willing to cut a new hole in the roof, go for it.

I would toss out the resell issue -- if I was buying your unit from you, I'd want to know the third AC is well sealed, leak free and that the electrical situation looks nice.

The last think I'd want, on a coach in that price range, is a bright orange extension cord coiled up on the roof.


Finally, what the others have said it probably good advice: make sure your existing two are running properly and you've got good airflow from all vents. If they are, and it's still too warm - cut away.
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