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04-07-2021, 12:02 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Merritt Island
Posts: 25
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Adding A/C mini split sys
Have a question on how to hook up power to a mini-split AC system on my 2010 gray hawk. I want to hook to the breaker box lanes for power and utilize my Gen set.
Any insight would be helpful to safely accomplish this task.
Thank you.
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04-07-2021, 01:19 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fortuna Foothills
Posts: 1,863
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Where are you going to mount the condenser and air handler?
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04-07-2021, 02:27 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,780
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I have seen it done, mostly on bus conversions and some older TTs.
I am assuming your roof top AC is dead and you are installing the mini-split as a replacement. From a power perspective it is very straight forwards. It needs a 120V, 20 amp or less mini split. Disconnect the old roof top AC power line from the circuit breaker and and connect your new Mini-Split wires. From a power perspective that is about it, as long as you have a proper auto transfer switch for your onboard generator, properly sized circuit breaker and wire. For a house, there is some code requirements for wires that exit the structure. Not sure RVs have the same rules. But then do RV's really have any code enforcement?????
Big issue is making sure to properly braze the new copper refrigeration lines as they have some strict purity requirements.
Let us know how it turns out.
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04-07-2021, 02:57 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fortuna Foothills
Posts: 1,863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
I have seen it done, mostly on bus conversions and some older TTs.
I am assuming your roof top AC is dead and you are installing the mini-split as a replacement. From a power perspective it is very straight forwards. It needs a 120V, 20 amp or less mini split. Disconnect the old roof top AC power line from the circuit breaker and and connect your new Mini-Split wires. From a power perspective that is about it, as long as you have a proper auto transfer switch for your onboard generator, properly sized circuit breaker and wire. For a house, there is some code requirements for wires that exit the structure. Not sure RVs have the same rules. But then do RV's really have any code enforcement????? no but any ac wiring needs to be done to code. NEC article 551.
Big issue is making sure to properly braze the new copper refrigeration lines as they have some strict purity requirements.
Let us know how it turns out.
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The condenser unit powers the air handler so a Romex or other code compliant wiring method would be needed between the two units.
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04-07-2021, 03:13 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicr
The condenser unit powers the air handler so a Romex or other code compliant wiring method would be needed between the two units.
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I agree with you completely. I did not look up that NEC spec. I know at my SB house location. The local codes will not let me use NM-B once it exits the wall of our house. Must use UF or THHN(??) even if it is in conduit. Back to being an RV, no permits will be pulled, and surely no one will look. But it still needs to be done right. I am sure FireCapt, does not what his buddies to come racing for a visit.
"But then do RV's really have any code enforcement????? no but any ac wiring needs to be done to code. NEC article 551." My comment here was me being sarcastic as we have seen so many images of how poorly campers are wired and how everything is intertwined together.
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04-07-2021, 04:56 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Merritt Island
Posts: 25
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I'm looking at mounting the condenser on the rear just left of the emergency window. The inside unit I'm still planning but thinking of on the kitchen above the dinning area where the overhead cabinets atr
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04-07-2021, 05:01 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Merritt Island
Posts: 25
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Planning on doing it to construction code, no my roof ac is still good. I live in central Florida and the humidity is destroying my interior so the though was to run this unit 24-7 but also be able to use in camp sites and of the Gen set.
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04-07-2021, 05:03 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Merritt Island
Posts: 25
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Thank you for your responses.
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04-07-2021, 05:35 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Pensacola
Posts: 671
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Would it not be easier to mount a #2 roof unit in the rear of coach where the existing roof vent is ? My Greyhawk has 2 roof top A/C units , And I just leave the front unit running when we are not using the Motorhome. These units are made to run for long periods of time. Are the mini-split systems cheaper to operate ?
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04-07-2021, 05:38 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 1,808
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Def love the idea of a mini-split or heat pump for a RV unit. Rooftop AC's aren't very efficient and aren't great at cooling. A small heat pump or mini-split seems like it would be more efficient and effective, as well as have the benefit of heating.
OP, keep us updated.
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08-11-2022, 06:25 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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I have seen one hanging off the back of a fifth wheel. It was mounted on a bracket attached to the back cap. Not sure where the inside part was mounted.
I think it is worth some investigation!
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