Airing the Dullies-Greyhawk 29MVP

[CAG]

As I am going over the new to us 2018 Greyhawk I came upon a problem that I cannot solve. The answer is probable right in front of me but so far I have not found it. And I did check the documents, which were no help.

In checking the rear tires I was looking to see where the valve stems are for the two tires. I find one but for the life of me do not see a second. Now is has been raining for three days so I cannot crawl under the rig to check and probably would not be inclined to do so anyway considering the clearance.

Some help in where to look would be appreciated.

My neighbor, who has a Redhawk was not much help. When I asked him, his response was "I don't know. I guess I have never checked the air." Now that's just scary.

[Dgibbster]

I added a short extension on the inner wheel valve stem that are about 3/4” added on and then i can just reach my air chuck with the head on it has a reverse 45 degree tip on it and i hook it thru wheel trim hub cap and pull outward to seal enough. It works perfect for me and cheap easy, if you really want to make it easier you can get the braided hose extensions and piece that clips into hole of hub cap like outside wheel valve stem, and i think i saw those at Camping world.

[CAG]

Thanks! I finally did find the inner valve stem.

[BuffaloBob]

Originally Posted by CAG

Thanks! I finally did find the inner valve stem.

And aren't they a joy to get to! I'll be putting extensions on soon. We just did a trip in our 29MV early last month to the Phoenix area. Took the last of the mother-in-law's "stuff" to her - she had lived with us for 8 months but moved in with the DW's brother in San Tan Valley.

It was a white knuckle trip fighting wind on the way down. Lots of different threads on the forum in regards to handling issues and fixes with our rigs.

We'll be spending next winter in AZ, splitting our time between the valley and down around Q with friends.

[CAG]

Thanks and yes I have read about the handling problems. I am going to start with the steering stabilizer and see if I need more from there.

The next issue I have run into is finding the correct configuration for receiving DISH from my tailgator. I am assuming, and that is what I have to do because there are no instructions, that the coax from the Tailgator is connected to the connection above battery area on the driver's side but then I am not sure where the line terminates in the coach.

I currently have a TV above the cab connected to one terminal and another terminal in the cabinet over the door. That one has a power booster so I am guessing that is for a standard antenna and not a Sat dish.

[BuffaloBob]

Originally Posted by CAG

Thanks and yes I have read about the handling problems. I am going to start with the steering stabilizer and see if I need more from there.

The next issue I have run into is finding the correct configuration for receiving DISH from my tailgator. I am assuming, and that is what I have to do because there are no instructions, that the coax from the Tailgator is connected to the connection above battery area on the driver's side but then I am not sure where the line terminates in the coach.

I currently have a TV above the cab connected to one terminal and another terminal in the cabinet over the door. That one has a power booster so I am guessing that is for a standard antenna and not a Sat dish.

I'm not sure if they changed that from the 18 to 19 model but I found another coax hook up on passenger side, I think the second compartment back - that one right behind the propane tank. Not sure if that's an input or output. I've read someplace here that we can call customer service to request a wiring schematic for our rigs. Anyway, I think it was here.

[JimD]

Put extensions on my old dually and immediately installed them when I got my new Greyhawk. I would not air up any other way. 2 hoses on each side so the valves are right next to each other.

I had little brackets that I riveted to the hub cap center which is how my old ones were installed. Looks like the mounting system has improved over the years.

[Tockert]

When we had to have a out dual fixed, the tire guy failed to reinstall the extension. I bought some on Amazon when I ordered the Tire Minder system so I would have have to try and fit my fat hand into the inner air stem.
That flat that had to be fixed is what forced me to buy the tire minder system, as it is hard to see if that inner tire is flat or inflated correctly.
Now I can check pressure on the TM system, and also monitor my trailer tires when towing it.
I am not able to see the trailer tires in my mirrors when towing it, so again it is piece of mind.

Todd

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by BuffaloBob

I'm not sure if they changed that from the 18 to 19 model but I found another coax hook up on passenger side, I think the second compartment back - that one right behind the propane tank. Not sure if that's an input or output. I've read someplace here that we can call customer service to request a wiring schematic for our rigs. Anyway, I think it was here.

I'm pretty sure that's going to be an output like for an outdoor TV.

Input for mine is in the shore power compartment.

[Dave T WA State]

I had to have a tire shop install extenders on the inside dually tires.

But airing that tire is still difficult because the extender is flexible, and the access is through the outside wheel rim hole.

I bought a 12" plier that has an articulated (scissor lift) type body between the handle and tip, and the tip is curved at 30 degrees or so.

I use the plier to hold the extension while I apply the air nozzle to the valve on the extender.

Takes 2 hands to do this, but at least I can get air into the inside rears.

Also....air compressor must be rated to pump to at least 110 pounds. Otherwise the tires won't fill correctly to the right pressure around 80 pounds.

[RRHunter]

Greetings. I have a new Jayco Greyhawk 27u. Maiden long trip this week. Any suggestions on good floor mats Florida front cab. Thanks.

[CAG]

Originally Posted by RRHunter

Greetings. I have a new Jayco Greyhawk 27u. Maiden long trip this week. Any suggestions on good floor mats Florida front cab. Thanks.

That is way of topic. You may want to start a thread or find one that fits your need.

[Frodo13056]

I have been using air line extensions for over 15K miles on my last 3 Class C motorhomes with no issues. My setup is kind of pricey since I used new wheel simulators, the stainless extensions and also added a TPMS system.
Parts List:
1) Pacific Dualies 16″ 08-17 FORD E350 / E450 RV / MOTORHOME DUALLY WHEEL SIMULATORS / OVER THE LUG MOUNTING (See picture). Ford changed the E-450 wheels in 2008 from 8 vent holes to 4 vent holes. These are around $200 for all 4 and they actually bolt onto the existing wheel studs via a spacer type adapter so that it is virtually impossible to lose these simulators. I purchased mine off of E-Bay( https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-08-17-FO...72.m2749.l2649 )
2) I used the Phoenix AML1 (PHOAML1) stainless braided valve extensions. These can be found on-line for around $80.

I also use the EEZTire TPMS6 system and works really well ($319 on Amazon).

[Picinisco]

I have not had much luck with extenters. Finally changed the outer tire valves to extra long metal ones that are solid and allow the inflator end to attach without any movement. Also make sure the both dually wheels are aligned so the inner wheel valve is easily accessible through the outer wheel opening.

[Tireman9]

The key to avoiding problems with hose or any type valve extension is to be sure the outer end is S O L I D. Some hose kits come with small brackets that can be pop riveted to hub cap. Others have brackets that attach to lug nut.
People fail to support the hose or bracket when checking or adding air. The force needed to get a good air seal is enough to bend or losen the hose mounts. or they inadvertently twist the hose and end up with leak where the hose screws onto the metal valve.


You MUST hold the outer end of the hose firmly to prevent movement or twisting or you can expect to eventually have problems.
In THIS blog post you can see my set-up (42,000 mi) w/ no leaks or failures.


Since I run +10% psi over what I need on my Class-C based on 4 corner weights and since I always run TPMS (that I have tested) I simply use the TPMS to tell me the inflation each morning before I start out.
During a cross country trip OH > OR > OH over 7 weeks I only needed to add air once so since I am not messing with the hose extensions, I am not pushing on their mounts or applying force that might result in a slow leak.


If/when I ever do need to remove a sensor to change battery or add air, I ALWAYS spritz Windex to check for any leaks after I am done.

[CAG]

Neither of those sites you posted will come up.

[Snelles]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

The key to avoiding problems with hose or any type valve extension is to be sure the outer end is S O L I D. Some hose kits come with small brackets that can be pop riveted to hub cap. Others have brackets that attach to lug nut.
People fail to support the hose or bracket when checking or adding air. The force needed to get a good air seal is enough to bend or losen the hose mounts. or they inadvertently twist the hose and end up with leak where the hose screws onto the metal valve.


You MUST hold the outer end of the hose firmly to prevent movement or twisting or you can expect to eventually have problems.
In THIS blog post you can see my set-up (42,000 mi) w/ no leaks or failures.


Since I run +10% psi over what I need on my Class-C based on 4 corner weights and since I always run TPMS (that I have tested) I simply use the TPMS to tell me the inflation each morning before I start out.
During a cross country trip OH > OR > OH over 7 weeks I only needed to add air once so since I am not messing with the hose extensions, I am not pushing on their mounts or applying force that might result in a slow leak.


If/when I ever do need to remove a sensor to change battery or add air, I ALWAYS spritz Windex to check for any leaks after I am done.

Hey Tireman, I appreciate your post about TPMS and extensions. I went from Colorado to Texas and had to keep checking my tire pressure. The inner tire kept deflating down to 20 psi, so pretty dangerous and really sucky. I tried your link but it looks like the website is down maybe? I’d love to see a pic of what you bought for your dulleys. I have got to figure out a solution because what Entegra put on my RV is crap.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Snelles

Hey Tireman, I appreciate your post about TPMS and extensions. I went from Colorado to Texas and had to keep checking my tire pressure. The inner tire kept deflating down to 20 psi, so pretty dangerous and really sucky. I tried your link but it looks like the website is down maybe? I’d love to see a pic of what you bought for your dulleys. I have got to figure out a solution because what Entegra put on my RV is crap.

If your inner dual was going down to 20 psi that means you need to have BOTH tires inspected. One was severely underinflated and the other was severely overloaded, maybe running 180%.

[CAG]

I struggled to find something that would not leak and would allow me to keep the chrome covers on. I went with the item below (not the same vendor). I drove to Discount Tire and had them install them. Cost me $10 a tire and the valve stems. Now I can get to them without pulling the chrome covers.

I also have the same removal tool from Amazon. Works like a charm.

https://www.shinyrv.com/product/dual...free-shipping/

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by CAG

I struggled to find something that would not leak and would allow me to keep the chrome covers on. I went with the item below (not the same vendor). I drove to Discount Tire and had them install them. Cost me $10 a tire and the valve stems. Now I can get to them without pulling the chrome covers.

I also have the same removal tool from Amazon. Works like a charm.

https://www.shinyrv.com/product/dual...free-shipping/

Glad you found a solution. Just remember that when you check or add air to support the stem with your other hand as the long stems create a lever that can ultimately fail the gasket ehre the stem attaches to the wheel. This is another reason to run TPMS as it eliminates the need to push on the stem every travel day as you can learn your inflation by simply turning on the TPMS monitor.