Best Size for an RV Garage

[Darrell Liddell]

Ours is 48 ft long. Can open hood with door still closed. Doors are 12 ft wide. Works nice . Width is 60 ft. So it is more than needs but the Seneca uses 20 ft. With slides out and still walk around.

[bluegill1]

Do you want to end up with a beautiful garage for the RV only to find out it’s a few feet to narrow?
Go for the variance , if you get it, great! If you don’t, you know you tried.

[blubeard]

Always go at least 20 wide and 45 long. Can open awning to dry. Be able to have a 14 by 14 door, that way never worry about getting in

[putz]

One thing I did not notice is the height of the door.
I have garage 16' on the inside but with the door opener it only gives me 13' 10".
Remember unless you have a very flat driveway the rv will not be level
when you drive in.
My last Jayco 5th wheel just fit because you have to lift it higher
to load it on a PU. Always be prepared in case you change rigs.
Jayco's are just tall compared to other brands.

[Nature Ist]

There is plenty to read here already, but squeeze in all the space you can before you build it. I have my fifth wheel in a garage that allows me to open the slides and access everything. My surprise came when I realized the Jayco specifications for height were not accurate - it did not account for the HD TV antenna or the roof vent in the front. Even the 2nd AC height dimension was incorrect. So...be sure you allow for a door opening that is more than ample. Backing in with mirrors it is easy to see the sides of the garage, the roof clearance is not so easy to see!
Your Seneca will appreciate being under shelter when not in use!

[Fourkids&abeagle]

You may also want to consider if this is the biggest RV you want to own. You’d hate to finish a nice garage, then realize the new Class A you saw at the RV show won’t fit inside. FWIW

[Tucket]

Our camper shed is 53’ x 33’, 16’ eaves, overhead doors are 14’x14’. I can open all slides and awnings to dry out. 50 amp service, water hydrant and dump station. I have extra room for metal shelves and lawnmowers etc.

[putz]

I first measured the width of my toy hauler with the doors/steps & slide open then the width inside the garage. I then backed in. (Only took a few hours to get it right)
I then put red gorilla tape on the floor on the outside of drivers side wheels.
After I backed in I just had enough room at the front. I glued down large rubber blocks behind the rear wheels. I just back until I feel a bump.
Before disconnecting I place large rubber blocks in front of the front wheels. Harbor Freight & Tractor Supply have blocks made for trucks.
My blocks are 6' high & 10" wide.
You have to be careful so the rv is not at an angle.

Another thing you can do if you have a motor home is to pull in forward, its a lot easier than backing. If you have a rear pusher motor home you can then run the engine.

[deano]

I would build the size of my trailer if I wanted to cover it. Just my humble opinion.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by asolarrv

No Seneca yet, as that would have made it very easy to measure & eliminate the thread. Mad max, I agree with your thought!
Jflight, there will be some of those metal rack storage units along the sides and most likely a small bench.

We are limited to 51' length and 18' for the front 23' feet or so due to set-back requirements, unless we want to go the variance route. We could go wider the last 28' or so, which is what I am leaning towards. I think 22' foot would be a nice width.

Thanks for the thoughts!

Make any decisions yet? Lots of thoughts. I too would recommend inquiring about a variance. It does not take much effort in most communities. I would push for 24' wide and 52' long That is a good use of building material sizes (1/2 sheets of plywood).