bottoming out

geman1 · 03-29-2013, 08:26 AM

Good morning, we have the 28F Melbourne and with the long overhang I constantly bottom out when entering or exiting a laneway or entrance with a dip in it. Has anyone else having or had this problem and if so did you come up with a solution ? I did talk to one couple with a Melbourne that had dolly wheels welded on to the frame. We also noticed that some of the other manufacturers add bars to protect the rear cap and hitch.

hooked1 · 03-29-2013, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geman1

Good morning, we have the 28F Melbourne and with the long overhang I constantly bottom out when entering or exiting a laneway or entrance with a dip in it. Has anyone else having or had this problem and if so did you come up with a solution ? I did talk to one couple with a Melbourne that had dolly wheels welded on to the frame. We also noticed that some of the other manufacturers add bars to protect the rear cap and hitch.

I have a 29 Melbourne and I tore off the trailer plug the day I picked it up from the dealer. I went to Camping World and bought a pair of their best casters, they are bolt on and they have saved my tail several times, I've never had a problem since.
Jay

geman1 · 03-29-2013, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hooked1

I have a 29 Melbourne and I tore off the trailer plug the day I picked it up from the dealer. I went to Camping World and bought a pair of their best casters, they are bolt on and they have saved my tail several times, I've never had a problem since.
Jay

Jay. Are they the ones that bolt on to the hitch bar ? I looked at them but they looked like they were for a square bar hitch. Ours is the round bars hitch, would they bolt on OK ???

Rick

geman1 · 03-29-2013, 09:21 PM

I'm sure Jayco has heard this complaint from a number of customers and one has to wonder why they have not addressed the issue by now !!!!

Rick Perks
2013 jayco melbourne 28F

TX_Arvee · 04-01-2013, 09:07 AM

I have a 31FS and have bottomed it out once. I am extremely cautious when turning in and out of drives, etc. I noticed an RV down from me in the storage place that has a set of heavy duty bolt on casters on his hitch frame. Looks like it would work. I just understand there are some places I will just not be able to negotiate with my rig.

RoyBraddy · 04-01-2013, 01:49 PM

I have seen these bolted on the bumpers before. Probably the welded on type under the frame would be best but these should work pretty good as well. Etrailer sells some...

Roy Ken

Seann45 · 04-02-2013, 06:44 AM

When ever possible do not go directly up a driveway... take it at an angle.. this will help alleviate this problem..

geman1 · 04-02-2013, 09:00 AM

Seann, that is what we have learned to do..but the last spot we pulled into had quite a dip so I angled and didn't hit the receiver, instead I damaged the rear cap at the side of the receiver along with the trailer plug.

Will install some sort of casters...and get damaged repaired !

Rick

Jungkee · 08-19-2013, 11:03 PM

We have a 2012 Melbourne 28F. The long rear end behind the rear axle must be addressed. We purchased fairly large, heavy-duty wheels from a commercial trailer shop and had them welded as far to the rear of the coach as possible. They've (literally) saved our butt many times, but we are still very cautious entering/leaving entryways. We try to angle across and drive very slow in these situations. Finally, try to avoid drop hitch extensions if pulling a trailer or Toad.

msturtz · 08-20-2013, 08:54 AM

When we purchased our Greyhawk 31FS we had wheels welded to the back. To do that required a "subframe beef up" because the frame past the axle is just bolted on. The frame extensions cannot take the load of bottoming out. Eventually you will bend or damage the frame extensions and cause leaks in the roof or damage the side wall. The frame beef up and wheels cost us about $1600 including a new hitch (7500# 750# and wiring). The frame was enhanced back to the Ford factory frame. We also had a spare tire mount added as well.

cb1000rider · 08-21-2013, 08:13 PM

I thought the same thing, but when our 31' had to be towed, they literally lifted it on the rear hitch.
I immediately stopped and asked them if they were "sure" they knew what they were doing, as they were lifting on a frame extension. They said that's how they towed all of 'em.
I still question it some, but I'm not sure if the E-450 can be towed from the front, which essentially engages the driveline.... My point is, if they can lift the whole darn thing on that rear hitch, I'm not sure you have to weld in additional bracing on the extensions. Besides, what exactly do you tie into at the C-channel for on the extension...

Boss Wagon · 08-21-2013, 08:54 PM

The addition of Firestone Ride-Rite supplemental air bags will alleviate dragging in all but the worst case scenarios. I had a set on my old motorhome for 10 years having installed them shortly after purchase. My chassis was a Ford E-33, not common as it was the Econoline chassis stretched for Class A duty. In addition to eliminating nearly all of the scrapping and tail dragging there was a vast improvement in handling and stability.

cb1000rider · 08-22-2013, 09:41 AM

How much lift did you get in the rear of your RV? We had them on a Class-A and the made a big difference in front, but not in back.
Part of it is the nature of the beast, you've got a lot of overhang on that rear axle and it's going to drag if you have a big incline.

msturtz · 08-22-2013, 11:10 AM

The welding shop does several of these a month. Unfortunately you may not see the damage immediately because it typically presents as water leaks or buckling in the floor. If a tow company damages you unit by towing it that way it is their cost to fix. They are supposed to unhook the driveline and tow from the front. The shop that did the work on my unit follows the Ford factory recommendations.

Boss Wagon · 08-22-2013, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb1000rider

How much lift did you get in the rear of your RV? We had them on a Class-A and the made a big difference in front, but not in back.
Part of it is the nature of the beast, you've got a lot of overhang on that rear axle and it's going to drag if you have a big incline.

As I recall I could get several inches (4-5) in rear lift measured from the top of the rear wheels to the wheel opening. I would pump them up to 90-95 psi for a trip. In addition to the inches gained from the lift, the increased overall spring rate eliminated most of the dragging issues.

msturtz · 09-28-2013, 08:17 PM

Hi I spoke with Jayco service about this. They said that if the Greyhawk is towed from the rear or load such as skid wheels without a subframe beef up will cause damage eventually.

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