Cabinet door issues

[jdux999]

Hello All. I have a Redhawk 26XD - so far very happy with it. I'm starting to see some of the shortcuts that Jayco takes. The center panels of the cabinet doors are just glued in place rather than being inserted into slots of the door frame. The first time I pushed on the center panel to close the door it started to come away from the frame. I'm not really good at woodworking projects but I'd like to find a way to hold the doors together rather than just using glue. The tools I have are very basic so it has to be a fairly simple solution. Thanks for the help.

[cabinetmaker]

Originally Posted by jdux999

Hello All. I have a Redhawk 26XD - so far very happy with it. I'm starting to see some of the shortcuts that Jayco takes. The center panels of the cabinet doors are just glued in place rather than being inserted into slots of the door frame. The first time I pushed on the center panel to close the door it started to come away from the frame. I'm not really good at woodworking projects but I'd like to find a way to hold the doors together rather than just using glue. The tools I have are very basic so it has to be a fairly simple solution. Thanks for the help.

jdux...I have built and installed cabinets and millwork professionally for many years. I owned a shop that had over 100 employees and we shipped custom pieces all over. Maybe I can help.

First, you don't want to use nails or screws on your cabinet doors except to hold the hinges. When a door is made in a door press glue is what is used. There may be a few small pins or brads shot in the back where the joints go together but they only are there to hold the door frame together until the glue dries.

Most door panels fit into a groove like you described. We call this a cope-and-stick joinery. If your panels are inserted from the back then the panels are removable for possible glass inserts at a future time if wanted. We built some like this also to give a panel option to the customer.

I would remove the door from the cabinet and lay it face down on a padded flat surface. Clean the old glue out best you can from both the panel and the door frame. Using clear silicone adhesive I would put a few dots in the corners before inserting panel then insert the panel and put a small bead around the entire joint in the back where the panel and frame come together.

Remember, a little goes a long way when it come to glue! Leave the door laying flat for 24 hours and then carefully clean any excess silicone off the front corners that might have squeezed out, Be careful not to scratch the finish.

That's it...door should last many years after this. Remember, sometimes in the construction process things can happen. The glue may not have been applied correctly, the wood mating surface could have been excessively dusty, the process could have been rushed, the door panel could have been knocked loose during installation in motorhome.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself I am sure there is a local cabinet shop in your area that could do this for you at minimum charge.

I haven't heard of this being a common problem...not many cabinet issues I have read on here so I doubt this will be a constant issue.

Hope that helps! Let us know how it works out.

[jdux999]

Thanks CabinetMaker. That makes sense to me. I'll try it on the door that's showing the most separation to make sure I understand the process well enough, then do the other doors. I'll let you know how I make out with it. Thanks again for the advice!

[cabinetmaker]

I was in our Greyhawk today and checked our cabinet doors. The panels in ours are not removable but built with insert panels typical in the industry.

I forgot to ask if your still in warranty? If so you could always contact your dealer, send them a picture and possibly Jayco would ship you another door.

This is what our doors look like.

[pconroy]

As an amateur woodworker, it was one of the things I checked too. Ours are full rail/stile doors with inset panels. So far no separation on the cope/stick joint (but I have my pin nailer at the ready...)

While we're on the woodworking topic - those Amish craftsman paid no attention to grain direction in our coach. Most panels are L/R grain run, with a few very prominent ones going up and down.

Makes my OCD blood boil...

Considering it's probably *laminate* anyway, how hard would it be to have the cut list accommodate the grain???

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

[cabinetmaker]

Originally Posted by pconroy

As an amateur woodworker, it was one of the things I checked too. Ours are full rail/stile doors with inset panels. So far no separation on the cope/stick joint (but I have my pin nailer at the ready...)

While we're on the woodworking topic - those Amish craftsman paid no attention to grain direction in our coach. Most panels are L/R grain run, with a few very prominent ones going up and down.

Makes my OCD blood boil...

Considering it's probably *laminate* anyway, how hard would it be to have the cut list accommodate the grain???

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Ha! OCD blood boil...I can relate!! As a woodworker you will understand why they do the cross grain panels...to save a few bucks. It saves materials and cost. They use the scraps to make panels and could careless which way the grain runs. Luckily our panel grains run the correct way...not sure how but it was something I liked and like you noticed.

Problem is most RV builders are looking for ways to keep cost down and cabinets are one way. I'm actually pleased with ours for what they are. Not bad compared to some I have seen. I have done kitchens for what I paid for my motorhome so I guess in dollar terms you get what you pay for.

[Towgunner]

Hello cabinetmaker!

I hope you are still on the forum. I found this post and I have a similar issue. Jayco 2015 Greyhawk 31FS with the cabinet door and refrigerator panel separating.

What process and glue would you recommend?

[JFlightRisk]

snip...

Originally Posted by Towgunner

Hello cabinetmaker!

I hope you are still on the forum.

Just to let you know, cabinetmaker hasn't been on here since May 2019. Send him a PM with your question, and he may get it through his email.

[Funengineer]

Remove panels. Separate the joint as far as possible without damaging the other joints. Push Titebond III wood glue into the joint with a toothpick. Clamp the joint and remove any squeezed out glue with damp cloth. If you don’t have a clamp long enough, loosely tie a rope around the panel and twist it so it pulls the joint together. Wait 24 hours to reinstall.

[Towgunner]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

snip...

Just to let you know, cabinetmaker hasn't been on here since May 2019. Send him a PM with your question, and he may get it through his email.

Thank you!

[Towgunner]

Originally Posted by Funengineer

Remove panels. Separate the joint as far as possible without damaging the other joints. Push Titebond III wood glue into the joint with a toothpick. Clamp the joint and remove any squeezed out glue with damp cloth. If you don’t have a clamp long enough, loosely tie a rope around the panel and twist it so it pulls the joint together. Wait 24 hours to reinstall.

Thank you so much - this is exactly what I needed. Appreciate the prompt reply!

[Funengineer]

Originally Posted by Towgunner

Thank you so much - this is exactly what I needed. Appreciate the prompt reply!

If you look around you may be able to find a squeeze bottle of glue which will make forcing it into the joint that much easier. Don’t worry about getting it on the wood as Titebond will wipe off with a damp rag if you wipe up the squeeze out immediately after applying the clamp. Good luck.

[muckinfuss]

We build cabinets......if it was ours, I'd use wood superglue and spray glue accelerator. Available at any woodworking store, online, even craft supply houses sell it. I use it for most of our trim work also, build custom crown molding with it.

No muss, no fuss, no clamps, 30 seconds and it's done right and permanent.

[pconroy]

amateur cabinet maker here too. this is why I use 23g pin nails from the back on my cope and stick joints.


Agree w/ Superglue (aka cyanoacrylate). Go for the thin stuff - the kind you'll see in Walmart. Blue tape to catch any squeeze-out. Dribble into joint, press and hold together. Blue tape can be used as a "clamp" too.