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Old 12-25-2023, 10:23 PM   #1
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Chassis Battery goes dead

New member with a 2017 greyhawk 29mv. We purchased it in June and has spent 90% of its time with dealer. Issue is the vehicle(chasee battery goes dead if we plug into shore power. It is a new battery and the drain only occurs if plug to shore power with the 12 volt system active. Any help
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Old 12-26-2023, 06:07 AM   #2
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I have a 1st Generation Seneca, but consider this, your chassis battery can be connected to your coach at least two ways, 1. through the "Emergency Start" button and 2. through the alternator which also charges your house batteries while you are driving. In our Seneca, the cab radio plays through the coach and is connected to the chassis battery. I presume that our chassis battery is therefore connected to the coach battery charger/convertor. Your system may be similar. If I was having your problem, as a troubleshooting tactic, I would install a chassis battery disconnect switch to see if I could at least stop killing the battery while on shore power. If it does, it would at least allow you to use RV until you solve the problem.



Someone else with more experience will come along and help you with some more detailed info.
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Old 12-26-2023, 09:48 AM   #3
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Cassis battery discharge when on shore power

Thanks to all that have suggested a disconnect until a solution is found. Has any one found a source of the problem. I have had our JAYCO in camping world repIt for the 6 months I have owned. Have had a emp disconnect for a couple trips. But getting out to disconnect ever time you park. Our chassis battery discharges overnight when connected to shore power. Is good if not on shore power
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Old 12-26-2023, 10:09 AM   #4
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While it is common to find that Class C's do not charge the chassis battery when connected to shore power and many Class C owners find that their chassis battery has run down (or dead) while being connected to shore power, it is not common that this occurs overnight with a new (or good) battery. Often the chassis battery doesn't run down for many days, many weeks before it runs down is more common. In fact, this is the first time I have heard that the chassis battery runs down faster while connected to shore power than when not connected.

What many Class C owners have done is to install a permanent (or not permanent) chassis battery charger\maintainer so that any time on shore power the chassis battery charges as well. Others have made changes to the battery isolator solenoid to provide a charge to the chassis battery. Both are options you may want to consider in the future.

What I would do for an issue like this is to use a "Clamp" style DC amperage meter connected to one of the connections to the chassis battery (ie the negative battery cable) and with the engine off and everything possible turned off, determine the amperage flow, it should be zero or very close to it. Then I would plug in to shore power and see if there is a change in the current draw followed by turning on everything you can one item at a time and see if you can isolate which item you turned on results in more current flow from the chassis battery. Once that is known, then your options to correct this issue will become more apparent. ~CA
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Old 12-26-2023, 11:53 AM   #5
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I have a 2017 Greyhawk and can tell you for certainty that the chassis battery DOES NOT CHARGE when plugged into shore power. Our rigs came with the older style solenoid/relay that connects the chassis battery to the house battery when the ignition is on or the emergency start pushbutton is depressed.

Later models (don't know when) have a special relay that will charge will allow charging of the chassis battery whenever the house battery is being charged.

My solenoid failed and I put in an older style model which last forever. Had one on my old camper rig for 25 years.

These solenoids are mounted on the firewall and are easily accessed. If the dealer is having trouble diagnosing a problem that doesn't exist, it might be time to find a different dealer.

To keep my chassis battery charged while sitting for periods of time I just use a trickle charger connected directly to it. Although being a electronic geek I did install a way of activating the relay by pressing a remote control rf switch. That allowed me to top off the battery when boondocking for periods of time.

I have attached some documents and pictures of the solenoid you probably have (on the left) and the older style one (on the right). Good luck!
Attached Thumbnails
Capture.JPG   Voltmeter.JPG  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Quick Multimeter Instructions (ver 1).pdf (376.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: pdf RV Electrical Troubleshooting (ver 2).pdf (2.01 MB, 13 views)
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Old 12-27-2023, 08:05 AM   #6
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I replaced the solenoid with a Combiner 200. It is an automatic charging relay that automatically connects the batteries together when there is a charging source available on either battery but isolates them when no charging source is available.

It draws no current when not charging and it is rated for continuous use at about 1/4 amp load when combining the batteries.
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Old 12-27-2023, 11:20 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by nosrednacb View Post
New member with a 2017 greyhawk 29mv. We purchased it in June and has spent 90% of its time with dealer. Issue is the vehicle(chasee battery goes dead if we plug into shore power. It is a new battery and the drain only occurs if plug to shore power with the 12 volt system active. Any help
Here was the very very easy solution I came up with. Near your house batteries, there is a solenoid that is closes by button to emergency start or jump your chassis battery and when driving, it closes by ignition to charge house batteries from alternator.
I bought this 30a resettable waterproof circuit breaker for $9.99+tax. Two 6” pieces of #10 copper wire connected to the breaker. Mount it under the solenoid where accessible, and connect each wire to the two posts on the solenoid. When setting plugged in for period of time, turn on. When not using, push the trip button. Overcurrent protection is because of #10 is a smaller wire size. It works great as the converter not keeps the chassis battery charged.
Link to the breaker: https://a.co/d/981fgRX
Best wishes!
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Old 12-27-2023, 11:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Cooper View Post
Here was the very very easy solution I came up with. Near your house batteries, there is a solenoid that is closes by button to emergency start or jump your chassis battery and when driving, it closes by ignition to charge house batteries from alternator.
I bought this 30a resettable waterproof circuit breaker for $9.99+tax. Two 6” pieces of #10 copper wire connected to the breaker. Mount it under the solenoid where accessible, and connect each wire to the two posts on the solenoid. When setting plugged in for period of time, turn on. When not using, push the trip button. Overcurrent protection is because of #10 is a smaller wire size. It works great as the converter not keeps the chassis battery charged.
Link to the breaker: https://a.co/d/981fgRX
Best wishes!
On a Class C, the solenoid you mentioned is under the hood almost directly in front of the steering wheel and not near the house battery(s). There is another solenoid that is near the house battery though but that is the battery disconnect latching relay. ~CA
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Old 12-27-2023, 11:54 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by JimD View Post
I have a 2017 Greyhawk and can tell you for certainty that the chassis battery DOES NOT CHARGE when plugged into shore power. Our rigs came with the older style solenoid/relay that connects the chassis battery to the house battery when the ignition is on or the emergency start pushbutton is depressed.
It is absolutely true that the Greyhawks in this year range do not charge the chassis battery from shore power. But, as craigav said, that does NOT mean that the chassis battery should discharge faster when connected to shore power. Something is wrong there. I agree with what he said, the first step is checking the currents to understand the scope of the problem.
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Old 12-27-2023, 12:01 PM   #10
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On a Class C the solenoid you mentioned is under the hood almost directly in front of the steering wheel and not near the house battery(s). There is another solenoid that is near the house battery though but that is the battery disconnect latching relay. ~CA
Thanks Craig! Didn’t know that.
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Old 12-28-2023, 06:24 AM   #11
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I replaced the solenoid with a Combiner 200....
Very Interesting!
I noticed that this model does not support Lithium Batteries. Is that an issue for your installation?
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Old 12-30-2023, 01:15 PM   #12
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I have a new Greyhawk 29MV and the coach battery won't charge of shore power either. Have it in the shop and was told the converter is bad and won't charge the battery.
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Old 12-30-2023, 03:27 PM   #13
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I have a new Greyhawk 29MV and the coach battery won't charge of shore power either. Have it in the shop and was told the converter is bad and won't charge the battery.
If you are plugged in to shore, coach battery switch is on, and lights inside are dim, dimming, or do not work, then I’m guessing they are correct.
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Old 12-30-2023, 04:00 PM   #14
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Drain power

Some of your appliances and all your lights run on 12 volts so your inverter does its job inverting 12voltsDC from 110 AC shore power at the same time an AC 12volt battery charger keeps your battery from being drained seems to me the inverter charger is the problem all RV Ďs are the same that way..The inverter is also an automatic battery charger so check external and internal connections burned or loose wire .Check 12 volt fuses ( could be back feeding circuit )if that seems ok replace the unit
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Old 12-30-2023, 04:38 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Ann-Marie View Post
I replaced the solenoid with a Combiner 200. It is an automatic charging relay that automatically connects the batteries together when there is a charging source available on either battery but isolates them when no charging source is available.

It draws no current when not charging and it is rated for continuous use at about 1/4 amp load when combining the batteries.
Whatís the difference between this and the BIS thatís originally on rvís? And if it continually charges both batteries at the same time Wouldnít that cause your alternator to burnout prematurely?
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Old 12-30-2023, 06:14 PM   #16
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Whatís the difference between this and the BIS thatís originally on rvís? And if it continually charges both batteries at the same time Wouldnít that cause your alternator to burnout prematurely?
Question, Would putting a battery charger on a battery in a vehicle and leave it on cause your alternator to burn out? I’m thinking there is no difference between battery voltage only and charger voltage connected on the battery.
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Old 12-30-2023, 06:34 PM   #17
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Question, Would putting a battery charger on a battery in a vehicle and leave it on cause your alternator to burn out? I’m thinking there is no difference between battery voltage only and charger voltage connected on the battery.
I’m confused by your question. But you should never run your vehicle while your battery is connected to a charging source at the same time. “It can create a surge of electricity that could potentially damage the charger and/or the battery”. In an RV you have a converter/charger, I’m not sure how that voltage/amperage is handled when you start your RV while plugged into shore power, I usually avoid doing that. Having said that, I have run my generator while driving, so I would think this situation of voltage/amperage is the same coming from the converter/charger and alternator.

As far as charging batteries in your RV while underway , from what I understand, The BIS switches the charge voltage and amperage from the alternator back and forth between the house and chassis battery. If they both were to charge at the same time, this would cause your alternator to constantly put out at a higher amperage, thus shortening the life of your alternator. This is also the reason if you switch your house batteries to lithium it’s recommended to upgrade your BIS and upgrade your alternator.


Someone please chime in if I have any of this incorrect?
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Old 12-30-2023, 07:23 PM   #18
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Ok I misread that oh well …. If 2017 model unless it’s been a problem from start otherwise it’s a wire /cable problem maybe hard to find something to with what Jayco adds to the chassis’s for charging
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Old 12-30-2023, 07:41 PM   #19
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Whatís the difference between this and the BIS thatís originally on rvís? And if it continually charges both batteries at the same time Wouldnít that cause your alternator to burnout prematurely?
You said, “And if it continually charges both batteries at the same time Wouldn’t that cause your alternator to burn out prematurely?”
And my comment was saying, No it does not cause the alternator to burn out prematurely. In DC systems, amperage flows from higher voltage to lower voltage and only as many amps as are used. A 200 amp alternator puts out the same exact amps in the same exact situation as a 150 amp alternator.
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Old 12-30-2023, 07:57 PM   #20
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CraigAv's advice is the most logical way to find the problem.
Any competent service technician should have been able to figure that out already.
If you cannot do the diagnosis yourself (recommended) - then get a mobile tech out to fix it - no reason to have it sit in shop and not get fixed.
You should be enjoying your RV - not worrying if it will start!
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