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Old 05-23-2017, 06:07 PM   #1
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Installed a short 12 inch shower curtain to fill the gap so when we are showering it keeps the overspray in the shower stall, less cleaning afterwards. Wife found a shower curtain that had all our Seneca colours in it so matches, sort of.
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:37 PM   #2
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Cool idea. I took my first shower in Seneca tonight and I can see that being a problem. Well done.
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Old 05-24-2017, 12:20 PM   #3
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Hi Ready2.....

How did you mount it? I have a space like that at the top of my shower in my '15 31DS.
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:32 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by MFalcon View Post
Hi Ready2.....

How did you mount it? I have a space like that at the top of my shower in my '15 31DS.
Well it's a process, I started with a big cardboard placed on the shower rail then outlined the inside and outside, transferred that to a 1 inch thick mdf board (I know mdf and water?) jig sawed it out, routered the lower outer edge round and sanded to shape. I made it a little smaller than the rail to keep curtains inside so they won't snag when doors are opened. Then sourced four pieces of stainless steel with a mirror finish on one side 1 inch by roughly 8 inches, this was a fairly thin flexible material which came in easy at install time. After marking out 4 evenly spaced spots to hold up shower curtain moulding, dremelled out a slot for them to fit. I only drilled 1 hole in the board right at the seam joint in ceiling as I did not relish the thought of punching a whole bunch of holes into the ceiling. To prep the mdf, put on 5 coats of shellac,3 coats of oil based sealer then 2 coats of latex paint with a mildew protection additive. After cutting the curtain to size (you can cut the curtain to your own preferred length) marked my holes and installed brass teacup hooks. Put it up with one screw to hold it, then squeezed clear silicone into each slot before installing the pieces, (mirror finish out) by flexing each piece in. The dremelled slot's are not deep and the stainless was not very thick using a bench grinder to fit them for the proper length to provide tension (pressure) to the ceiling worked best, you can bow them a little to put into place then they will stand straight when done holding piece tight to the ceiling. When all were in, put a small dab of clear silicone on top of rail around each piece's base to keep them from rattling or moving. Once all were cured I dapped the inside seam at the top, ceiling and all slots at the top, then when dried recoated every thing with the mildew resistant paint and hung the curtain which is right up to the ceiling so very little direct water exposure to moulding if any. My carpenter friends said due to the way it was sealed and covered (as per their advice) and the mdf is not immersed it should be fine, time will tell. As there is no weight to this, load bearing is not an issue. The longest part of this job is waiting for all the coats to dry. I did not dap the outside seam at the roof so if moisture did get up there it could air out. Once it has all cured and the silicone has set up it feels pretty solid. I hope this long winded reply helps.
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