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Old 12-14-2021, 12:11 PM   #1
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Coach battery issue/radio drain of power

I just bought a used 2021 Jayco Melbourne 24L with 5000 miles on it. The coach battery was almost dead when I arrived to purchase the rig. The owner plugged in shore power for a short time. Did the deal and started my 9 hour drive home. Turned on the radio and it worked for a while, then it started going off and on, soon after, off completely. At the same time the interior lights would not work. Suspected that the radio is connected to the coach battery and not the vehicle battery. Got home, plugged in shore power and radio comes back on. Is this normal? Why would the radio, which you use during driving and drawing power, be connected to the coach battery, which is having it's power drained by the radio and not recharging during driving? What am I missing?There must be some way of charging the coach battery during driving, yes??
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Old 12-14-2021, 02:38 PM   #2
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Battery is toast and won't hold a charge

Stereo in my 2018 25r runs of house battery unless breaker switch is turned off

Should have flipped the switch while driving, but you'll learn these things over time

Good luck
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Old 12-14-2021, 02:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doshlaw View Post
Why would the radio, which you use during driving and drawing power, be connected to the coach battery, which is having it's power drained by the radio and not recharging during driving? What am I missing?There must be some way of charging the coach battery during driving, yes??

I don't have the Melbourne, but on my Greyhawk, the headunit can play DVDs on the TVs, can route sound to the interior speakers.


I do neither, but I suspect that's one reason.


Our headunit is connected to both batteries.


And yes, on ours, the alternator charges both batteries.
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Old 12-14-2021, 06:57 PM   #4
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Which breaker switch?
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Old 12-14-2021, 08:19 PM   #5
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I get a headache when thinking about how the stereo is wired in my class C. This is in regards to my 2021 Entegra.

The stereo-
The stereo "always on" wire is connected to the 7.5 amp fuse on the side of the camper disconnect solenoid in the battery box. This provides the constant 12V to the stereo for memory functions. Note this is a camper battery connection.

The other "switched" stereo battery connection is wired as an "OR gate"- either camper or cab battery.


It does sound as though your battery may need to be tested, as mentioned by @Stavman.


The camper battery should be charged by the cab battery/alternator when driving (cab ignition on).
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Old 12-15-2021, 06:39 AM   #6
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Which breaker switch?
Red lighted one as u walk in the door up the stairs
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Old 12-15-2021, 10:25 AM   #7
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Thanks. The only red light I have near the entry stairs is the Main Power switch red light. This was on while I was driving. Is this the light you are referring to?
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Old 12-17-2021, 11:17 AM   #8
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So, I got rid of the old single coach battery and replaced it with two new deep cell batteries. Also, will make sure that the Main Power switch is "off" when driving the rig. Thanks to everyone who responded.
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Old 12-17-2021, 05:26 PM   #9
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So, I got rid of the old single coach battery and replaced it with two new deep cell batteries. Also, will make sure that the Main Power switch is "off" when driving the rig. Thanks to everyone who responded.
I believe if you turn that disconnect switch off while driving, your alternator will not charge your house batteries and none of your 12 volt stuff inside will work.
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Old 12-17-2021, 06:02 PM   #10
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On my 2021 Entegra, the camper~Ford battery connection is directly to the camper battery (with the Ford aux start solenoid under the hood), thus not connected to the disconnect switch. Camper battery charges while driving.
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Old 12-26-2021, 12:38 AM   #11
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Coach SHOULD CHARGE while driving. Turn IGN+ON/OFF/ON/OFF/ON and listen for the CLUNK, which is MOST Likely the CHARGE SOLENOID. On my old E450SD, mounted under hood, on firewall in front of driver, vs BOOST SOLENDOID (on mine, under step, next to battery). Newer models/ brands/ device locations may vary? Mine does not appear to use any CHARGE CONTROLLER/ BATTERY MANAGEMENT, (BIM or INTELLITEC BIRD) but if your does, it simply also controls that solenoid to best manage battery charge. SOLENOIDS do go bad, will CLUNK, but NOT connect ($20-$40 item, easy DIY, get CONTINUOUS DUTY RATED) Good Luck
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Old 12-26-2021, 05:53 PM   #12
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Mine is wired, if power is switched on to motorhome the radio stay on even if vehicle key is off. If home is off but key on it works.
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Old 12-26-2021, 10:24 PM   #13
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So, I got rid of the old single coach battery and replaced it with two new deep cell batteries. Also, will make sure that the Main Power switch is "off" when driving the rig. Thanks to everyone who responded.
Turning main power off to drive is ridiculous? You NEED it ON so coach Batteries can charge properly.
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Old 12-27-2021, 07:04 AM   #14
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I never said anything about turning off house power
Of course you leave it on so fridge will work.
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Old 12-29-2021, 02:00 PM   #15
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my house battery charges from my alternator regardless of house power being on or off. I wish it would stop the charging of the lithium battery as it's such a large draw, but it does not according to the BMS on my house batt.
The OPs behavior sounds to me like there is a radio wiring issue, but leaving the house main power on seems like an easy fix, even if it's temporary. My next step would be to replace the chassis battery, as it was completely dead, which takes a toll on it, and there are electrical issues. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of symptoms, and are cheap and easy to replace, even when they are stored under the driver's feet in those crazy Sprinters.
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Old 12-30-2021, 04:32 PM   #16
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Battery issue

Replace the old battery with two new 12 V. Everything working fine. Thanks for your replies.
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Old 01-08-2022, 04:24 PM   #17
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Sorry to rehash this but we just brought home our 24 L and since we did NOT get any introduction on the chassis (great walkthrough intro to the coach but not the chassis/running gear, etc.).
Anyway…I’m trying to figure out the radio and battery charging circuit as well.

Do I understand correctly that the house disconnect switch must be on while driving in order for the batteries to charge?
Also when parked the radio has a parasitic drain on the house batteries UNLESS you turn the House switch off?!
In my mind that’s crazy! It essentially forces you to plug into shore power or run a generator when on an extended boondocking trip (something we plan to do often).

Or am I missing something??
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Old 01-08-2022, 07:34 PM   #18
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Coach battery issue

First of all, congratulations on your purchase of your Jayco Melbourne 24L. We love our coach hope that you enjoy yours. Here’s what I “think“ that I have learned through reading the threads and through brief experience. When I am driving I keep the coach main power on (that is the red button just inside the entrance door to the coach on the left bottom). This allows the alternator in the engine compartment to charge the batteries.(I had one battery for the coach when I bought the unit I’ve now replaced it with two batteries.) if you leave the coach main power button on when you are parked and do not have shore power attached, there will be a parasitic drain caused by the radio. Because I have my unit plugged into shore power at my house when we are not traveling, I have not tested shutting off the coach batteries to determine if there’s a parasitic drain from the radio if The coach main power switch is off. I will test it and let you know what I find. Please reciprocate if you test it. I suspect that if you turn the main power off on the couch I did not attach the shore power the radio should be totally off with no parasitic drain from either the engine battery or the coach battery. If you turn the The coach main power button off and your radio still lights up with the engine turned off there’s probably going to be a parasitic drain from the coach battery But I don’t know how. I will test and let you know
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Old 01-09-2022, 07:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnK View Post
Sorry to rehash this but we just brought home our 24 L and since we did NOT get any introduction on the chassis (great walkthrough intro to the coach but not the chassis/running gear, etc.).
Anyway…I’m trying to figure out the radio and battery charging circuit as well.
Most, if not all, of the Head Units in Jayco class Cs are powered both from the house and the chassis batteries. They use a "y" shaped harness which contains a diode to automatically switch power sources. When the engine runs, the power comes from the chassis. Otherwise, the power comes from the house battery. If the House power is shut off via the switch near the stair well, the radio goes off as well. Or you can turn the radio off using its front panel controls.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 0020025_P_1_060617 Y harness.pdf (173.1 KB, 6 views)
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Old 01-12-2022, 07:09 PM   #20
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On my 99 Conquest Class c, there are two related circuits, BOOST and CHARGE. On mine, CHARGE SOLENDOID on firewall under hood, forward of driver, controlled by IGN, you hear the THUNK when you turn key to ON. My BOOST is controlled by rocker switch next to door/ step in coach, located under step, next to battery, and I had to replace this past Spring (would CLUNK but NOT connect). I can use my BOOST to charge or boost in either direction, and solenoids are CONTINUOUS DUTY. Some MFR/ chassis USE a CHARGE CONTROLLER, often an INTELLITEC brand IRD/B.I.R.D. CHARGE controller (controls CHARGE SOLENOID) that can charge in both/ either direction, AS NEEDED BY EITHER BATTERY. P.s. Battery switch must be ON, except when stored without shoreline. Hope this helps?
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