DC Electric problem

[Tobster]

I have 2009 Greyhawk 31GS. I am not getting voltage to a couple of my 15amp fuses. I am not sure where the fuse panel gets the voltage from. I m fearful that I may have a converter problem, however most DC items are working.. Any suggestion

Thank you
Tobster

[Grumpy]

The power side is normally a common buss. Very doubtful that it would be the converter.

[jimp]

Find the GFCI plug and check it to see if it has tripped. Should be near/in the kitchen or bath.

[MFalcon]

Which fuses? and are they located in you main electrical panel?

[Tobster]

Originally Posted by jimp

Find the GFCI plug and check it to see if it has tripped. Should be near/in the kitchen or bath.

The GFCI is located in the Bathroom. I did check that and seems to operating properly.

Thank You for your reply

[Tobster]

Originally Posted by MFalcon

Which fuses? and are they located in you main electrical panel?

After checking all the fuses they all test good. The only circuit I am having an issue with is called "Monitor, Kitchen area, water pump." The Control Panel, the light above the sink, and the switch in the bathroom for the water pump are dead.

Thank You

[mia389]

Ok, Lets start at converter,

First GFCI has nothing to do with 12v power. That is the 120 side.

Your battery supply's 12v to the converter. You will see at your converter 2 thick gage 12v wires coming in and mounting at two terminals. Usually white and black or black and red. These terminals power the 12v fuse buse. Sounds like all this, is ok since you have 12v power to other things.

You found the circuit you are having problems with, but you said the fuse is good. So you must have 12v power from bus to the out side of converter. On the back of the converter there will be a wire bundle. There will be a connection there at each wire comming out. Check that connection. Even if it looks good. There will be plenty of excess wire. Cut it after connection and see if you have 12v. If not, you found the problem. Redo the connection. This is actually common. The problem is finding the right wire to the circuit. Somewhere on the converter there should be a wiring diagram. Like brown/green #4. That means #4 fuse powers brown/green wire. Hope this helps.

If this is not the problem and you have good power coming out. Its time to trace that wire. This can be a #@#@#!!.

[mia389]

I miss read your problem,

Your saying that some of your fuses are not getting 12v power. Are these fuses located on the converter panel? If so, this is very uncommon and would mean the bus has somehow came apart and that would be a new converter.

[Tobster]

Originally Posted by mia389

I miss read your problem,

Your saying that some of your fuses are not getting 12v power. Are these fuses located on the converter panel? If so, this is very uncommon and would mean the bus has somehow came apart and that would be a new converter.

The fuse panel is located in the bedroom on the outside of the bed stand. under the bed is where all the electronic nightmare is. converter, inverter, etc. is located. After testing more, it appears that only that one circuit is not working, and it does appear that the 15amp fuse is good.

Thank You

[Isaacs]

Remove the fuse that powers the bad circuit. Check for voltage at the fuse slot--you should get 12V on one side. If you do, there' s nothing wrong with the panel bus.

Are you sure the fuse is good? Try swapping it out with another 15A fuse on another circuit.

Assuming the fuse is good it is then time to remove the panel and start checking wires as stated above. You'll have to make sure there is power at the wire that is designated for that circuit to rule out any problems in the panel. There may be a crimped on wire connector (similar to a wire nut) where you can stick a probe into without cutting anything to start with.

Good luck!

[Vicr]

Originally Posted by jimp

Find the GFCI plug and check it to see if it has tripped. Should be near/in the kitchen or bath.

The GFI has NOTHING to do with his 12v fuse block.

[Tobster]

Originally Posted by Isaacs

Remove the fuse that powers the bad circuit. Check for voltage at the fuse slot--you should get 12V on one side. If you do, there' s nothing wrong with the panel bus.

Are you sure the fuse is good? Try swapping it out with another 15A fuse on another circuit.

Assuming the fuse is good it is then time to remove the panel and start checking wires as stated above. You'll have to make sure there is power at the wire that is designated for that circuit to rule out any problems in the panel. There may be a crimped on wire connector (similar to a wire nut) where you can stick a probe into without cutting anything to start with.

Good luck!

Thank You. Ill be tearing into deeper tomorrow morning, Ill hopefully have something good to report.

Thanks to everyone for your advice!

[mia389]

Originally Posted by Tobster

The fuse panel is located in the bedroom on the outside of the bed stand. under the bed is where all the electronic nightmare is. converter, inverter, etc. is located. After testing more, it appears that only that one circuit is not working, and it does appear that the 15amp fuse is good.

Thank You

Then refer to my first post. Your lucky you have very easy access to the nightmare behind the converter. On Greyhawks they install the converter on the side of the bed usually. This makes getting to all the wires behind it pretty easy. Just note that if you have the unit pluged in while your messing with the 12v wires in back, you still have 110 going into the conveter.

I have seen many times the bell clamps they use from factory come loose.

[Tobster]

Originally Posted by mia389

Then refer to my first post. Your lucky you have very easy access to the nightmare behind the converter. On Greyhawks they install the converter on the side of the bed usually. This makes getting to all the wires behind it pretty easy. Just note that if you have the unit pluged in while your messing with the 12v wires in back, you still have 110 going into the conveter.

I have seen many times the bell clamps they use from factory come loose.

Thank you for the words of wisdom, it is plugged in, I will be aware of that!! One quick question: Prior to losing total power to this circuit, I did notice that the light in the water pump switch in the bathroom did not come on when the switch was used. Pump still come on, just the light did not come on. Just a thought maybe that switch is causing the issue.

Thank you again

[SloPoke]

also could be the ground wires for that circuit:

Pull down the kitchen light, and perform some tests on the wires from your kitchen light that is not working... take a voltage meter to the power side - to chassis ground (dont use the other wire on the light) Then test the ground wire connectivity (ohms set at lowest range) to the chassis ground.

[Tobster]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

also could be the ground wires for that circuit:

Pull down the kitchen light, and perform some tests on the wires from your kitchen light that is not working... take a voltage meter to the power side - to chassis ground (dont use the other wire on the light) Then test the ground wire connectivity (ohms set at lowest range) to the chassis ground.

Great... so should i show resistance from both sides?.. im thinking if i show no resistance i have an open ground. Any idea what color negative wires maybe?

Thank You for your help

[RVermont]

As slow poke mentioned check the ground. If the ground bar is located In the same place on your unit as in the Seneca look up under the rear cap and see if you have bundles of wires attached to the frame. Check to be sure these are secure. I had a bundle break off and the lights would go off when I turned the fan on and also when I turned the head lights on. These were all grounded together and the coach lights were actually grounding through the market lights. To test the actual wires you can pick up a trailer wiring test light. That way you can quickly check wires without have to pull the connections apart.

[Tobster]

Mother Nature has put a damper on my search for my Electrical Problem. She decided to bless me with some snow, however I do plan working in the RV sometime today to explore into my problem. You all have given me several options to check. Thank you all for the help, you all are the best.

Thank You
Tobster

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Tobster

Great... so should i show resistance from both sides?.. im thinking if i show no resistance i have an open ground. Any idea what color negative wires maybe?

Thank You for your help

Generally.. White is the negative or ground. The light power could be any other color that Jayco used, especially since it is a switched leg.

If you see zero ohms on the negative - when the other end of the meter is connected to the battery negative (or chassis ground), then you need to search for the place where your ground circuits are all being connected to the chassis. I can't direct you to the specific place where your ground wires attach, but ours has about 15 white wires all terminated in a aluminum buss bar that is attached to the steel frame of the motorhome.

[hoppers4]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

If you see zero ohms on the negative - when the other end of the meter is connected to the battery negative (or chassis ground) ...

I think what you meant to say is "If you DON'T see zero ohms ...