Door lock key pad

[GrayHawk51]

here's the manual, check it out and see if it's the one for your model year and make.


http://bauerproducts.com/bauernemanual.php

[Rick-in-Houston]

I think it's a Dexter

[Bluesky46]

Maybe I'm mistaken, someone please correct me if so. But there appears to be two kinds of locks used. Bauer locks, and those use batteries for power. Dexter locks, and those are supplied 12v power from the coach battery. I think my lock is a Dexter lock, it has 12v contacts on the door and will only work when the door is closed. The keypad is separate from the lock assembly. See pictures. From all the horror stories I have heard about people trying to change lock combos, unless you had a good reason to have it changed, I would probably leave it alone. The fuse that powers my lock are located behind the house battery.

[Rick-in-Houston]

You are correct. It is a Dexter. What I need to do is wipe the memory clean put it back to factory codes.

[RoWest]

My dealer was no help and found this site. Click 'Support' and 'Keyless Entry' is the first choice. It will give you menus for RV manufacturers. Jayco is in the list, but Seneca is not. Use 'Greyhawk' or other and model UM28 keypad manual is available. You unscrew the keypad and short the colored wire listed to reset to factory default and input your own codes. Easy peasy. The 2nd link is direct link to menu if not broken. It is a downloadable pdf for later.
TriMark Corporation - Latch, Handle, Linkage, Electronic, Hinge, Vehicle door hardware
E-Ask | TriMark Corporation

[LI-Camper]

My 2016 29 MV has a Bauer with batteries. It works well so far. I replaced the stock batteries with long lasting one because I didn't want a problem. Setting the code was easy.

[Oldapple]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

I have not heard bad things about the Bauer EM, just that you probably need to change the batteries in the latch once a season. If you full-time and are in and out a lot, even maybe more often. It take 4-AA batteries, cheap and common.

It is not the same as my unit's, the root of my problem seems to be the separate Dexter keypad. I do have a Bauer latch with a separate actuator to operate the deadbolt, controlled by the Dexter keypad. But my issue isn't the latch, it is just that the Dexter keypad is bad. The buttons stop working or the pad shorts out and tries to continuously lock the unit!

The keypad on my 2013 Seneca TS is made by Trimark. I think the door is Dexter and the latch itself is Bauer. There was a recall to install a new keypad with a fuse (the fire issue). I've never found a fuse BTW. Since then I've had to replace the keypad twice, it keeps failing. This last time before it failed the deadbolt actuator kept going on and off, this happened after I washed it. I'm thinking moisture gets into the latch area where the actuator (solenoid) is located. I've also noticed problems similar to this after a heavy rain. If this keypad fails then I'm either going with the Bauer EM or disabling the whole mess.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Oldapple

The keypad on my 2013 Seneca TS is made by Trimark. I think the door is Dexter and the latch itself is Bauer. There was a recall to install a new keypad with a fuse (the fire issue). I've never found a fuse BTW. Since then I've had to replace the keypad twice, it keeps failing. This last time before it failed the deadbolt actuator kept going on and off, this happened after I washed it. I'm thinking moisture gets into the latch area where the actuator (solenoid) is located. I've also noticed problems similar to this after a heavy rain. If this keypad fails then I'm either going with the Bauer EM or disabling the whole mess.

The last separate keypad the local dealership installed did actually burn itself up right after installation even though the proper fuse had been installed during a prior keypad replacement. That was an interesting phone call from the dealer - "We installed the new keypad, but.....!" There was even some paint damage to the surrounding door area but nothing else harmed. After the many attempts to fix the original system, Jayco gave up and authorized a complete new entry door. I had a couple other warranty issues needing addressed so Jayco asked that I bring it to the Service Center in Middlebury. That was one year ago, they installed and painted the new door and it looks like it came with it originally. I now have the Bauer EM battery-operated latch and it works well. I did install lithium batteries and they lasted all season with considerable use.

Even though your unit is (likely) out of warranty, a plea to Jayco Service might be worth trying since you have been through many keypads too. They might authorize a "goodwill" repair since this is a known issue. Couldn't hurt to ask!

[Oldapple]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

The last separate keypad the local dealership installed did actually burn itself up right after installation even though the proper fuse had been installed during a prior keypad replacement. That was an interesting phone call from the dealer - "We installed the new keypad, but.....!" There was even some paint damage to the surrounding door area but nothing else harmed. After the many attempts to fix the original system, Jayco gave up and authorized a complete new entry door. I had a couple other warranty issues needing addressed so Jayco asked that I bring it to the Service Center in Middlebury. That was one year ago, they installed and painted the new door and it looks like it came with it originally. I now have the Bauer EM battery-operated latch and it works well. I did install lithium batteries and they lasted all season with considerable use.

Even though your unit is (likely) out of warranty, a plea to Jayco Service might be worth trying since you have been through many keypads too. They might authorize a "goodwill" repair since this is a known issue. Couldn't hurt to ask!

Great idea Robbbry. I might try that! Also note to those having to replace the keypad, $80 direct from Trimark. I've seen them as high as $180 on eBay and hard to find otherwise.

[rgolding]

Our 2015/2016 Seneca 37FS worked the day we bought it and the dayafter we took it in to be repaired or replaced. Rest of the time, it doesn't/hasn't worked. We certainly don't count on it. It was one of those fancy dodads that looked cool and then became useless.
OUR KEY HAS NEVER FAILED and I'm happy.

I'm headed in in March for a check up and I'll let them look at it again. ;-)

[javamon]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

....Jayco asked that I bring it to the Service Center in Middlebury....

Just curious, did JAYCO reimburse you for any travel expenses?

[Robbbyr]

They did offer to come and pick it up at my local dealer, but I elected to take it over myself to drop it off. Only a 4-hour drive from home. That gave me the opportunity to actually meet the Service Center staff and go over each and every item needing attention. Likewise on pickup I drove over and we went over everything they repaired. Since they had to paint the replacement entry door they agreed to paint my new water heater door free of charge. I had swapped my original Girard for a 10-gallon gas/electric Atwood XT tank unit, but the new outside door comes white. Not sure who came out ahead on that deal, but the new door matches and looks 100% original!

My unit is back at the Service Center right now (again), I took it over last week to get a few other issues repaired while still in warranty. I have asked them to inspect and reseal (if needed) my roof while there and they are repairing a torn booth dinette seat back. So I am okay with that arrangement.

[tjbroussard]

My Trimark key pad died a few months back. Ordered one from Trimark. No problems since except that I no longer have backlighting on the numbers which is hard in the dark.

[RyRoRyan]

I have the Bauer EM and I can tell you it is a pain. It does not "wake up" like it normally should based off the instructions. Also, locking requires that your enter the code and then press 8/lock after that to lock...why not just press 8/lock like you would on a ford's keyless entry. That is not the worst part. Apparently Jayco's builders have not been properly trained on how to install this. On some rigs it is installed correctly, but on others..mine included, they did not install the latch plate correctly. Due to this, you can literally see the lock pins from the outside of the door. You can easily use a pen, stick, or anything small and pointy and just push the bolts back into the door and break right into the coach in matter of seconds. See my attached pictures. If you have something like this, make sure you get it to your dealer and fixed asap to solve the security issue.

Side note: Why the heck does this site rotate the pictures? They are fine on my computer and fine everywhere else, but when I upload them to here, they all get turned 90 degrees.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by RyRoRyan

I have the Bauer EM and I can tell you it is a pain. It does not "wake up" like it normally should based off the instructions. Also, locking requires that your enter the code and then press 8/lock after that to lock...why not just press 8/lock like you would on a ford's keyless entry. That is not the worst part. Apparently Jayco's builders have not been properly trained on how to install this. On some rigs it is installed correctly, but on others..mine included, they did not install the latch plate correctly. Due to this, you can literally see the lock pins from the outside of the door. You can easily use a pen, stick, or anything small and pointy and just push the bolts back into the door and break right into the coach in matter of seconds. See my attached pictures. If you have something like this, make sure you get it to your dealer and fixed asap to solve the security issue.

Side note: Why the heck does this site rotate the pictures? They are fine on my computer and fine everywhere else, but when I upload them to here, they all get turned 90 degrees.

Did you enter your own personal lock code? Once I did my Bauer EM will lock by just touching (and holding for a second) the 7/8 and the bottom key logo buttons. It would not lock that way prior to me putting my own code in.

I have to firmly touch and hold my finger to the right of the keypad to "wake up" my unit. If I don't hold it for a second or so it may not. In sunlight it is hard to see the numbers light up, so if I have not awakened it properly the first key pushes are ignored and it won't unlock since it only reads the last part of my code.

Were your pictures of the pins before or after the latch was repaired?

Not a clue about the pictures!

[RyRoRyan]

This is after I programmed my code...I have yet to get it to wake up pressing the right section area...mine may be bad.

These pics are before the repair...I have actually not seen it repaired yet as it is at the dealer and has been there since 2 Dec 16 I am not to please with them right now having my rig for going on two months to fix all the PDI issues with it.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by RyRoRyan

This is after I programmed my code...I have yet to get it to wake up pressing the right section area...mine may be bad.

These pics are before the repair...I have actually not seen it repaired yet as it is at the dealer and has been there since 2 Dec 16 I am not to please with them right now having my rig for going on two months to fix all the PDI issues with it.

I think yours might be defective, another thing to add to the repair list.

I would be interested to see how they fix your exposed latch issue, mine is not quite as wide of a gap as yours appears to be, but I do have some.

Good luck, I hope you get your unit back soon!

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by RyRoRyan

This is after I programmed my code...I have yet to get it to wake up pressing the right section area...mine may be bad.

It may be - I can wake mine up with just a brush of the back of the hand. It also wakes up when it rains or I wash the coach.

[Bluesky46]

What kind of luck have you all had replacing your Dexter 12v door lock with the Bauer battery operated style. My Dexter lock has gotten to the point that it blows a fuse every time I push "unlock", but seems to work fine when I "lock". I'm ready to get rid of this and try the battery operated style, which I understand is standard equipment now on many newer Greyhawk models. Mine is 2012, and was still using the Dexter lock. My questions are three. 1. Is the Bauer lock easily interchangeable? and by this I mean will it fit in the same door opening without having to cut out the hole in the door. 2. Does it work any better? 3. Are there other brands out there other than Dexter and Bauer I should consider and the same questions, #1 and #2 apply to those. I see Amazon sells one by RVLock, it's a bit more expensive, but comes with a remote as well. Anyone with experience with those?
Here are the ones I am considering
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXU0CFQ...=ICXQDPTLGTSC2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXE1QZG...J98THM27&psc=1

[Rick-in-Houston]

Blue sky,
I dismantled the Dexter it's is crap. Installed the Bauer EM AlSentis with lithium batteries and it works great. Easy replacement should replace your existing Bauer door latch with no modifications.
The only issue I have is what to do with the Dexter keypad mounted in the door.