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Old 02-23-2020, 06:19 PM   #1
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Draining Lines for Winter

Just got back from a trip and we expect to see below freezing temps again, so finished draining the lines and putting anti-freeze in the traps. I blew the lines clear with a compressor,


My question is this...does anyone have any recommendations for the order in how to clear the lines? I opened all three low level drained, and then emptied the hot water tank. I then pressurized with the air (around 35 PSI) and opened the sinks and shower one at a time, then ran the toilet. Seemed to clear it out pretty well, but thought I would inquire from the more seasoned folk if they have any thoughts on this.


Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2020, 08:29 PM   #2
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I tend to do all the shutoffs in whatever order I come to after I gravity drain everything. Then I go back around and hit them all a second or even a third time till I don't get any water spitting out or gurgling sounds. Then I use the 12 volt pump to pull in pink antifreeze to all the faucets and toilet.

Then I blow out the pink and call it a day.
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:44 AM   #3
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I assume you have some sort of adapter on your compressor to blow out the lines? I want to do this next fall when I winterize but have some questions as to the exact procedure.
TIA
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Old 02-24-2020, 10:05 AM   #4
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I tend to do all the shutoffs in whatever order I come to after I gravity drain everything. Then I go back around and hit them all a second or even a third time till I don't get any water spitting out or gurgling sounds. Then I use the 12 volt pump to pull in pink antifreeze to all the faucets and toilet.

Then I blow out the pink and call it a day.

Thanks for sharing, Roger!
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Old 02-24-2020, 10:44 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by stustoner View Post
I assume you have some sort of adapter on your compressor to blow out the lines? I want to do this next fall when I winterize but have some questions as to the exact procedure.
TIA
This is what you need to blow out the lines with a compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-C...%2C152&sr=8-92

As a note, in the spring I will also use air to pressurize the system before connecting water. This lets me make sure there are no leaks with air before using water. I learned this lesson one year when the solenoid valve for the ice maker on the residential fridge froze and cracked. When I de-winterized/sanitized I had solution go all over the place and the coach smelled like bleach for two weeks.
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Old 02-24-2020, 11:00 AM   #6
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Don't forget you ice maker line. You can open the solenoid by momentarily applying 120V AC to the solenoid. This will blow all of the lines and the valve itself.
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:02 PM   #7
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I do not think there really is a right or wrong way to use an air compressor.

I do drain my water heater tank first. I also tend to exercise water heater bypass valves to ensure no water is sitting behind a valve.

Take your time, make sure to exercise each valve multiple times. For me on my 23B, I find that I must have a physical low point in the long supply line that wraps around the back of the trailer to the kitchen faucet. If I come back after a little while and blow out the lines once again, I will l blow out an additional 1/2 of water out of the kitchen faucet.

X2 on the EA37TS adapter. I also install a small 1/4 turn valve between that adapter and the TT, so I can shut off the flow of air.

https://www.amazon.com/HQMPC-Extreme...2567138&sr=8-6
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:16 PM   #8
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If interested here is another version of the blow out adapter with a shutoff valve valve.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081Q5K661...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:05 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jagiven View Post

Take your time, make sure to exercise each valve multiple times. For me on my 23B, I find that I must have a physical low point in the long supply line that wraps around the back of the trailer to the kitchen faucet. If I come back after a little while and blow out the lines once again, I will l blow out an additional 1/2 of water out of the kitchen faucet.
That's exactly why I've said in the past that just blowing out the lines might not be enough, because water can re-settle in low points and fittings and be a freeze issue. I know on my rig I have a few of them.

After blowing out the lines, adding antifreeze will help lower the freeze point of any residual water in the lines.
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:37 PM   #10
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Whatever your procedure is, do it twice, you wonít get all the water the first time.

I open the low point drains, drain hot water , blow it, open faucets one at a time, blowing it each time, turn pump on, pump off, switch to city water, switch to winterize, switch to dry camp, just short bursts of air each time. Do it again. Pour some antifreeze in the drains and call it good. Our temps rarely get below 15 F.

I have the rv parked near family for us to drive 3 hours to visit family during the holidays and events. I end up winterizing and un-winterizing 6-8 times during the winter.
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:40 PM   #11
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Whatever your procedure is, do it twice, you wonít get all the water the first time.

I open the low point drains, drain hot water , blow it, open faucets one at a time, blowing it each time, turn pump on, pump off, switch to city water, switch to winterize, switch to dry camp, just short bursts of air each time. Do it again. Pour some antifreeze in the drains and call it good. Our temps rarely get below 15 F.

I have the rv parked near family for us to drive 3 hours to visit family during the holidays and events. I end up winterizing and un-winterizing 6-8 times during the winter.



Thanks to all for the comments here. Reading through this made me realize that I forgot to empty the cartridge under the sink... I just bought a small solar panel for a trickle charger so I'll be running up to the ol' gal in a few days. Just when you think you had it all done...
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Old 02-24-2020, 09:22 PM   #12
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I picked up one of these on Amazon for $14. Itís fantastic for blowing out the lines. The valve really helps.
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