e-450 engine rattle - serpentine belt

[JFlightRisk]

There have been many many folks here that have added the additional pully without any problems. There's a lot of give to the tensioner pulley, so there's no reason to change the belt length.

The belt has a long distance between the pulleys, and the new pulley will shorten that, and take out the "flutter" that's making the vibration. It'll probably take you longer to get your tools out than install the pulley.

[Bullitt6283]

Originally Posted by Antper

Here is the question I have. Hopefully not derail this post. If you were to add an additional pulley where the threaded bolt hole is to your right if your facing the engine, would the existing factory installed belt be to tight of a fit and go a tad larger or use existing factory spec belt?

I found that it does not deflect the belt enough to affect the belt size. The pulley just leans on the belt, keeping it stable.
.

[mini4mw]

Originally Posted by Bullitt6283

I found that it does not deflect the belt enough to affect the belt size. The pulley just leans on the belt, keeping it stable.
.

X2

When you install the 2nd pulley, you barely need to push the belt down to slide the pulley on. Takes a little more than pinky finger effort to push.

[Enforcer110]

Originally Posted by mini4mw

Ever since it was new, the RV would have a fast rattle in the engine compartment when accelerating between 1800-2400 RPM, mostly 2nd gear, 30-45MPH. Sometimes it would happen for a second or two, other times for several seconds. Seems since it has got colder it doesn't happen as often. It wouldn't happen throughout the entire RPM distance, but it would almost always be there, usually ~2100RPM. Let go of the throttle or when it shifts and the rattle goes away. After 12k miles I finally decided to start trying to figure out what it was. Engine runs fine, no power loss, no mis-fires. Its not bad gas as I've gone through plenty of tanks. I stuck a gopro off the radiator and captured the below.

https://youtu.be/Oa6cr2dFkPE

You can hear the rattle start at :15 and then watch the belt vibrate erratically until you don't even see it for a few seconds. Rattle slows down and belt goes back to normal.

What is the cause of this? Bad belt? Bad tensioner? Pulley out of alignment? Something else? I'd think worst case is premature belt failure, right?

thanks-

I had this problem on my 2017 E450. Ford use to have a idler pulley on the top of the engine. In their great wisdom they removed it, I believe in the early 1970s. The engine still has the threaded bolt hole for the pulley. Add an idler pulley to the engine and the noise will be gone. It is an easy install No special tools, and nothing to remove.You will need to get the idler pulley bolt from Ford. That is the only place I could find it. The bolt comes in a two pack, and cost me about $10 approx. 2 years ago. You can get the idler pulley from any parts store. Advance Auto Parts had it for about $20 with a lifetime warranty. Autozone did not have the lifetime warranty. You will be asking for an idler pulley, and bolt as if you are replacing the one that is on it all ready. But you will be adding an additional idler pulley to the top of your engine.

[Don McC]

Getting ready to add the pully this weekend before our VA to Mt Rushmore trip in a few weeks. Hope this gets rid of that annoying sound.

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by Don McC

Getting ready to add the pully this weekend before our VA to Mt Rushmore trip in a few weeks. Hope this gets rid of that annoying sound.

We'd all like to hear if it worked for you. I bet it does.

[Don McC]

Easiest fix I’ve ever done on a vehicle. No more belt sound at 2000-2500 rpm’s and it’s so nice

[Johnynorthland]

I started a thread on this a while back. The sound my V 10 makes once in a while isn’t exactly a rattle but more of an air rushing or water rushing sound, but it may be the same as yours. I don’t correlate it to an exact temperature but I’ll pay attention to that next trip. At first I thought it might be air sucking in the throttle body, but I’m still not sure.

Someone on here responded to my post with an actual video of a camera setup in their engine compartment as they drive. They said it was the idler/tensioner pulley. They also posted previous years Ford had attached a second idler pulley, they even showed the bolt pattern on the engine block where It belongs.


Long story short, I’m still not quite sure what my sound is but it very rarely happens and if I can’t pinpoint it I am not wasting my time at a dealer!

[thenne1713]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

I started a thread on this a while back. The sound my V 10 makes once in a while isn’t exactly a rattle but more of an air rushing or water rushing sound, but it may be the same as yours. I don’t correlate it to an exact temperature but I’ll pay attention to that next trip. At first I thought it might be air sucking in the throttle body, but I’m still not sure.

Someone on here responded to my post with an actual video of a camera setup in their engine compartment as they drive. They said it was the idler/tensioner pulley. They also posted previous years Ford had attached a second idler pulley, they even showed the bolt pattern on the engine block where It belongs.


Long story short, I’m still not quite sure what my sound is but it very rarely happens and if I can’t pinpoint it I am not wasting my time at a dealer!

The harmonic of the serpentine vibration is a $20-$40 DIY FIX (10-min under hood) (variance in freight $$/ source); With proper part in hand, and proper wrench/ socket, remove air filter housing parts as required to reach location, install idler by hand, and snug mounting bolt w/ wrench, reinstall AF parts and close the hood; NO Dealer service or parts required. My 99 chassis did require the HEX Head bolt vs the TORX head, so I had to reorder. but otherwise, extremely easy job a week/ so later.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by thenne1713

The harmonic of the serpentine vibration is a $20-$40 DIY FIX (10-min under hood) (variance in freight $$/ source); With proper part in hand, and proper wrench/ socket, remove air filter housing parts as required to reach location, install idler by hand, and snug mounting bolt w/ wrench, reinstall AF parts and close the hood; NO Dealer service or parts required. My 99 chassis did require the HEX Head bolt vs the TORX head, so I had to reorder. but otherwise, extremely easy job a week/ so later.

I’m confused, so your saying you added this missing idler pulley?

[Bullitt6283]

If for no other reason that it may extend the life of the belt, installing the missing pulley is something worth doing. And you can likely do it yourself in a few minutes.

Adding the pulley cured the noise I was having.

Video:
https://youtu.be/Oa6cr2dFkPE

.

[Berjr]

on the other hand i just changed the belt and the noise went away for me. It has been about 20K miles since the change and it is still quiet.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Bullitt6283

If for no other reason that it may extend the life of the belt, installing the missing pulley is something worth doing. And you can likely do it yourself in a few minutes.

Adding the pulley cured the noise I was having.

Video:
https://youtu.be/Oa6cr2dFkPE

.

Yup! That’s the noise! I purchased the Goodyear belt but never put it on. Does anyone have the link to the pulley and hardware?

[Bullitt6283]

My vehicle is a 2016 Jayco Greyhawk 29MV with the Ford E450 chassis and the V10 gas motor.
The bolt I used is p/n N808102 S437
The pulley I used is the same pulley that is mounted on the passenger-side of the motor. Pulley is (Motorcraft YS-385) #1L2Z-8678-AD.


Be careful when tightening the bolt. You're threading into aluminum.
..

[Bullitt6283]

Originally Posted by Berjr

on the other hand i just changed the belt and the noise went away for me. It has been about 20K miles since the change and it is still quiet.

You have better luck than I had. My noise came back after a belt change. Then I discovered the missing pulley.
.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Bullitt6283

My vehicle is a 2016 Jayco Greyhawk 29MV with the Ford E450 chassis and the V10 gas motor.
The bolt I used is p/n N808102 S437
The pulley I used is the same pulley that is mounted on the passenger-side of the motor. Pulley is (Motorcraft YS-385) #1L2Z-8678-AD.


Be careful when tightening the bolt. You're threading into aluminum.
..

Awesome info, thanks for posting that, is the mounting location easy to find? I had the diagram of its location but misplaced it.

[jyh818]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

Awesome info, thanks for posting that, is the mounting location easy to find? I had the diagram of its location but misplaced it.

Here you go...

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by jyh818

Here you go...
Attachment 84995

Awesome, unbelievable that ford deleted it, probably to save money and bring up their bottom line!

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

Awesome info, thanks for posting that, is the mounting location easy to find? I had the diagram of its location but misplaced it.

That pulley part number is coming back for an F150 I guess the parts are interchangeable?

[Bullitt6283]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

That pulley part number is coming back for an F150 I guess the parts are interchangeable?

The front cam-drive cover of the V10 and the other Triton V8s are pretty much the same.


.