Electrical Problems?

[SmokerBill]

Originally Posted by DSMeerkat

Update:
The RV plug was burned and corroded as I stated earlier. It was burned a little because of the long 30A extension I was using...I cleaned it a little previously but apparently it wasn't enough to supply the demand...

If the RV plug was burned and corroded, the contacts in the receptacle you were plugged into probably has matching burn marks. Might be a good idea to replace the outdoor receptacle while you're making things right.

[Eag70]

Hi
Power issues .
Planning to go out this weekend on a trip . Jack didn’t work so I
just install 2 new batteries on my Rv.
Had to remove jack to avoid dragging on driveway.
All my exterior lights work but nothing inside .
I install a extension cord and everything works .
Once a disconnect cord nothing works inside !!
Breakers and fuses are all ok.
This is the first time I’m going crazy .
Please help

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Eag70

Hi
Power issues .
Planning to go out this weekend on a trip . Jack didn’t work so I
just install 2 new batteries on my Rv.
Had to remove jack to avoid dragging on driveway.
All my exterior lights work but nothing inside .
I install a extension cord and everything works .
Once a disconnect cord nothing works inside !!
Breakers and fuses are all ok.
This is the first time I’m going crazy .
Please help

Did you connect the batteries correctly? Check the reverse polarity fuses for the converter.

[Camper_bob]

Also, there may be a fuse in line between the batteries and the converter/charger. Typically found up near the tongue somewhere in a weatherproof boot. Probably a 30A blade fuse. That fuse is VERY easy to pop, especially if you're connecting/disconnecting batteries on the tongue.

[Vicr]

Originally Posted by Eag70

Hi
Power issues .
Planning to go out this weekend on a trip . Jack didn’t work so I
just install 2 new batteries on my Rv.
Had to remove jack to avoid dragging on driveway.
All my exterior lights work but nothing inside .
I install a extension cord and everything works .
Once a disconnect cord nothing works inside !!
Breakers and fuses are all ok.
This is the first time I’m going crazy .
Please help

Why don't we start with telling us what kind of RV you have? Otherwise there's just a lot of guessing when troubleshooting electrical problems over the internet which as an electrician of 38 years I personally find it quite frustrating.

[Vicr]

He said his outside lights are working, so obviously the batteries are connected properly and the converter is working.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Eag70

Hi

All my exterior lights work but nothing inside .
I install a extension cord and everything works .
Once a disconnect cord nothing works inside !!
Breakers and fuses are all ok.
Please help

Which exterior lights are working, the running lights or the patio and similar lights? I would suggest testing without having the RV connected to the tow vehicle as that connection has the running lights and 12v power supplied via the connector. Do you have a battery master disconnect that is perhaps in the disconnected state?

I would start by unplugging everything, check the battery voltage and see what you have, check the battery disconnect relay and see if the power is passing through, then move on the to fuse panel and see if you still have ~12v coming in there. ~CA

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Vicr

He said his outside lights are working, so obviously the batteries are connected properly and the converter is working.

What if he was referring to the running lights? That would be run off the chassis battery.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by JimD

What if he was referring to the running lights? That would be run off the chassis battery.

I don't think the latest question is related to a class c based on "Had to remove jack to avoid dragging on driveway." and the latest question came up due to an electrical question from the OP in this thread.

Eag70, do you have more details? Perhaps opening up a new thread (question) would be of more value for you. Also, welcome to the website as I see this is your first post. ~CA

[Camper_bob]

Here are the context clues:

"Jack didn't work"
"Had to remove jack to avoid dragging on driveway"

These say "trailer".

"Outside lights work" - When plugged into the truck, they would, but which "outside lights" is unclear as stated by craigav.

"I install a extension cord and everything works .
Once a disconnect cord nothing works inside !!" - Means the converter is supplying 12V via the 120V shore power cord to the interior and other "house" lighting.

MOST likely situation: Jack was raised too high/low and blew the main fuse at or near the tongue of the trailer, which broke the connection from the trailer batteries mounted on the tongue to the converter.

The running lights would still work when connected to the tow vehicle, and the other 12V lights would work off the converter while plugged into shore power. The batteries would see no charge voltage from the converter/charger.

Further, it is likely that if OP was not careful when disconnecting the battery(ies), they could have shorted to the frame and popped that same fuse (assuming it wasn't already blown). If wires were hooked up to batteries backwards, that could have popped the reverse-polarity fuse in the converter/charger. But since the batteries were recently replaced, and it's likely the main 30A fuse up front was blown at that time, I doubt a reverse connection could have popped the reverse polarity fuse in the converter.

That being said, if the batteries are connected improperly, when OP find's the main 30A fuse and replaces it, the reverse polarity fuse in the converter/charger will pop immediately.

[JimD]

If everything works when plugged in, as stated, the problem has to be the battery. It is either dead or disconnected from the circuit. Could be a simple battery disconnect issue or failure of the solenoid or inline fuse/circuit breaker.

The Jayco owner’s manual states “Never depress the momentary battery disconnect switch for longer than 1 second. Depressing and holding the switch down will disable the battery disconnect solenoid. Should this occur the main ground cable for the house batteries must be removed for 1 minute to re-enable the solenoid operation.”

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Here are the context clues:

"Jack didn't work"
"Had to remove jack to avoid dragging on driveway"

These say "trailer".

It is a Redhawk Class C as stated in the first line.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by JimD

It is a Redhawk Class C as stated in the first line.

Post #22 (1st post by a new member, asking a new question) is what I assume everything thereafter to be related to.

Eag70 would do well to start a new thread with post #22, but may not know how yet...?

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Post #22 (1st post by a new member, asking a new question) is what I assume everything thereafter to be related to.

Eag70 would do well to start a new thread with post #22, but may not know how yet...?

Oops. I stand corrected.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by JimD

If everything works when plugged in, as stated, the problem has to be the battery. It is either dead or disconnected from the circuit. Could be a simple battery disconnect issue or failure of the solenoid or inline fuse/circuit breaker.

The Jayco owner’s manual states “Never depress the momentary battery disconnect switch for longer than 1 second. Depressing and holding the switch down will disable the battery disconnect solenoid. Should this occur the main ground cable for the house batteries must be removed for 1 minute to re-enable the solenoid operation.”

Regarding holding the disconnect switch, when I first got my RV years back, and because the awning and battery disconnect switches are next to each other (in mine anyway), from outside the RV door I pressed the disconnect switch in for quite a while (thinking it was the awning switch). In any case all the power went out and I was bewildered. Prior to reading the manual I turned the battery disconnect switch back on, which didn't do anything, then I hit the aux start button and the relay kicked in. I never had to disconnect the battery. I plan to change the coach battery soon and will test this again. Later I did read to disconnect the battery for 1 minute if the disconnect switch is held in for longer than 1 second, but I didn't need to do that afterall. Anyway, just a thought to share. I will verify if this method still works in the near future when I change out the coach battery, that way if this doesn't work for me, I will be disconnecting the battery anyway. ~CA

[Johnynorthland]

Be sure to check the electrical terminals on everything, especially your transfer switch. Even if you find the problem!

[garywilson]

Originally Posted by DSMeerkat

Update:


The RV plug was burned and corroded as I stated earlier. It was burned a little because of the long 30A extension I was using...I cleaned it a little previously but apparently it wasn't enough to supply the demand...


It's been two days now and after taking a wire brush to the plug and cleaning it real good...all is well and hasn't happened since...


I would call this solved!


Thanks everyone again for the support.

---------
Dielectric grease is indicated....

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by DSMeerkat View Post
Update:
“The RV plug was burned and corroded as I stated earlier. It was burned a little because of the long 30A extension I was using...I cleaned it a little previously but apparently it wasn't enough to supply the demand...“



As stated in my last post, (#36), check your transfer switch and all your connections, do it ASAP! Same thing happened to me! First my plug then my transfer switch.

[Larryj1213]

We lost 120v power to all appliances and receptacles. no reason.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by Larryj1213

We lost 120v power to all appliances and receptacles. no reason.

what have you tried in the way of debugging?