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Old 08-18-2015, 05:59 PM   #11
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Griswald... if you can't drive your camper, I wouldn't start the engine. You will be doing more harm than good. Change your oil before winter. Before the snow gets too bad, get it out and drive it for a while, getting it up to operating temps and drive it hard. Let it cool down with a gentle ride back home, then put it away for the winter. It will be fine.

I try to run our generator every other month. I have a fuel petcock, I personally run the fuel out of the carb and let it shut off that way. This reduces ethanol based fuel from sitting in lines and in the carb for a long time.
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:16 PM   #12
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I like where this advise is going. So if I am not going to run the engine... my final concern becomes the battery. I do not have access to shore power at my storage yard. So a trickle charger is out of the question. I assume the generator needs the battery's cranking power to start up.... I am thinking the right solution might be to remove the battery for the winter and bring it home where I can put it on a trickle charger and then buy a battery pack that I can take up to give me the start up power needed for the genny???

You would all really make my day if you said... no just leave the battery it will survive 4 months of winter.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:52 PM   #13
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Disconnect the cables or have a disconnect switch and it has a good chance of handling 4 months without charging. All the little stuff like the LP detector and digital clocks will work on draining that battery over 4 months. OR How about a small, say 12 to 15 Watt solar panel charger? That should help keep the battery up.
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Old 08-18-2015, 11:15 PM   #14
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Solar panel could work... I can get morning sun where the truck is parked and if I built a stand sloped to say 20 degrees the snow should slide off so I don't have to run up there after every snowfall. Thanks all for the advice and suggestions
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:07 AM   #15
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You said that you are going to run your generator monthly. Making a monthly trip to check on your unit and batteries is always a good idea. Use disconnects on your batteries to get rid of any residual power drain. Purchase a battery charger that is not automatic. Meaning it doesn't shut down when it thinks the battery is full. When you are running your generator, charge your batteries while you are exercising your generator. If you put a 6 or 10 amp charge in your batteries for 1/2 hour each, it will top off your batteries without cooking them. Get a digital voltage meter and check your batteries before you charge them. Optimally they should be around 12.7 volts. That will give you some guidance on how much you need to charge your batteries. Charging your batteries is just insurance. It would give me piece of mind.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:10 AM   #16
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So here is a question I had not considered. The battery power for startup on the Genny... Is it drawn from the truck battery or the house battery??? The house battery is your standard Deep Cycle correct? So it will have to be removed in the winter to prevent freezing as the cells are filled with water. Whereas the truck has a automobile style battery which can be left in?

Conversly will the generator provide a charge to the truck battery on it's own or does that require additional apparatus. I think your suggestion is to plug a battery charger into the genny and then connect it to the battery? Am I reading that correctly?
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:28 AM   #17
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I have a FW, so I don't have direct knowledge of what you have. Both of your batteries are wet cell batteries and have the same characteristics as far as charging goes. Most likely your house battery is a standard marine deep cycle battery. I would have to assume that the manufacturer would start your generator off of truck battery. that would make the most sense,as it has higher CCA's then a deep cycle does. I wouldn't expect that either battery charges directly off of your generator. That is why I suggest getting a non automatic battery charger. And yes, you will have to determine how to connect a charger to your batteries. Without seeing your battery set up, I would expect you would need an extension cord and the charger to charge both batteries. Chargers like I describe cost about $35. You may want to consider 2 of them to expedite the charging process. I would probably start with one and using the digital volt meter to determine just how long you needed to give the batteries a touch up.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:31 AM   #18
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None of your batteries should require removal for the winter providing that you keep them charged up. Only a discharged battery will freeze!!
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:46 AM   #19
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I also would recommend a good fuel additive in your last tank of fuel before winter. In 3 or 4 months there is a possibility of ethanol issues (fuel separation) in that period of time.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:53 AM   #20
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Jusr remember...

If you use any kind of synthetic, you have to use synthetic oils from then on. You can't revert back to regular oil.

Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend in gas trucks from the factory if it's a Ford.
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