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Old 08-19-2015, 08:53 AM   #21
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Jusr remember...

If you use any kind of synthetic, you have to use synthetic oils from then on. You can't revert back to regular oil.

Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend in gas trucks from the factory if it's a Ford.
Not true. Especially on a new engine. You can go back and forth as you wish. I use the Amsoil 5W-20 and change it once a year. I do 10,000 miles a year with it.

The generator uses the house battery to start. The generator will charge the house battery but not the coach battery. When I am off the grid, I bring along a small charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter to top off the Ford battery when I am on the generator as I use the truck 12V ports at night to charge cell phones, iPads etc.

The only time the coach and chassis batteries are linked together is when you hit the white button. That links them together so that if one battery goes dead, you can use the other to jump start your engine or generator.

My suggestion, fill the gas tank. Best if you can find ethanol free but some places are hard to find. Use a high quality fuel stabilizer. Put a little more in than recommended. Run the truck and generator until the new stabilized fuel is run through. Change the oil with whatever you wish. Park it. Disconnect both batteries and take them back home. Put them in the basement or some place that is somewhat warm. Once in a while, put the batteries on a battery tender to top them off. Stay warm the rest of the winter and take the batteries back with you in the spring and reinstall. There will be no surprises of a dead or cracked battery. No need to run up there once a month and spend an hour listening to motors run. The batteries will last longer. The seals and generator will be just fine for the three to six months.
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Old 08-19-2015, 10:11 AM   #22
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Let me re-phrase, you CAN but I wouldn't.
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Old 08-22-2015, 12:57 PM   #23
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ethanol gas is garbage when left in anything for long periods of time....running the engine up to fully operating temperature once a month or a fuel stabilizer like StaBil is a good idea....I wonder if having the gas tank near empty or full is a way to go...I heard a low gas tank added more condesation to the gas...?...I quit using ethanol totally in my 2 cycle equiptment and they perform well when stored for months at a time..I buy the non ethanol quart gas for power equiptment now and well worth the extra cost...I imagine ethanol gas sitting in my RV for long.periods of time can't be good for it without taking some cautionary measures...
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:37 AM   #24
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Storage and your generator are going to be the biggest concerns IMHO. That carb is fairly famous for getting gummed up if not run enough.
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Old 08-24-2015, 12:27 PM   #25
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Use Sea-Foam instead of Sta-Bil. Its a fuel stabilizer and fuel system cleaner. I wouldn't go without it.
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Old 08-24-2015, 01:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWP723 View Post
Jusr remember...

If you use any kind of synthetic, you have to use synthetic oils from then on. You can't revert back to regular oil.

Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend in gas trucks from the factory if it's a Ford.
Do you have any documentation to back up that assertion? Makes no difference to me since I use synthetics exclusively in all my vehicles but I'd still be interested in where you got your information. Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2015, 02:04 PM   #27
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Do you have any documentation to back up that assertion? Makes no difference to me since I use synthetics exclusively in all my vehicles but I'd still be interested in where you got your information. Thanks!

From the techs I work with. Like I said in a latter post, you CAN go back but it's advised from FoMoCo not to. Mineral oil based lubes can cause seals to contract and leak after using a synthetic or blend. I can tell you this much. I had a 95 F150 5.0 years ago and went to synthetic oil. Decided to go back to regular oil for $$$ reasons. Two weeks later I had a leaking front crank seal and rear main. At that time, I would take my truck to a neighborhood mechanic that my parents and grandparents used. Years prior to that, he was a engine tech on a drag team. He schooled me on why not to revert back to conventional oils as far as the seals swelling and contracting. Mind you, this was a long time ago and things have changed since. Oils are better as are the seals in engines. So, it may not even apply anymore but that's not a chance I'm taking.
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:48 PM   #28
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To OP,

What you are asking is similar to how we store boats for the winter.

Run engine to full temperature for at least an hour. Top off fuel - do NOT use ethanol fuel. Add sea-foam. Change Oil. Start for a minute or two to circulate oil. Pull plugs, spray fogging oil in. Insert plugs finger tight. If a carburetor then fog as well. Applies to vehicle engine and generator engine.

Remove battery and store in basement of home.

In spring, charge battery then install. Remove plugs, crank engine several times; install plugs. Start engine and let run some. Replace plugs with new, replace air filter, replace fuel filter.

Good to go.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:33 PM   #29
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Reading this thread makes me realize why so many northerners move south.
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