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Old 02-12-2020, 12:09 AM   #21
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My Seneca is a 2019.
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Old 02-15-2020, 04:38 PM   #22
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Okay - update #3?

Changed out the 6 amp diodes to 10 amp diodes in the Freightliner interface as suggested by Jayco to fix the equalizer problem. No joy - didn’t fix the problem. So onward to Jayco to see what we will try next..🥵🤪
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Old 03-06-2020, 09:11 AM   #23
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Update #4 - hopefully the last.
After much back an forth with Jayco and not developing a solution, I remembered that lamigra had said that equalizer indicated cutting the pink wire.. cutting it did stop the beeping, but disabled the ignition warning. So I put a 6 amp diode in the pink wire with the cathode end facing the equalizer panel. This would allow signal to come in but not out.. the ignition warning now worked again. This also stopped the panel from coming back on after the jacks were deployed. Everything seems to work as it should, again. So far so good. Hopefully this is my final post on this matter🤪😹🤞🤞
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Old 03-08-2020, 04:08 PM   #24
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Thanks for posting the fix. I'm going thru the same problem.
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Old 03-09-2020, 11:14 AM   #25
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I emailed Equalizer yesterday about the constant alarms while driving. They emailed me back this morning saying they will be shipping a DV2 kit.
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Old 03-09-2020, 07:32 PM   #26
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I emailed Equalizer yesterday about the constant alarms while driving. They emailed me back this morning saying they will be shipping a DV2 kit.

Can I ask, what's a DV2 kit?
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Old 03-10-2020, 04:06 PM   #27
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Can I ask, what's a DV2 kit?
Someone else mentioned the kit in a thread about the Equalizer alarm activation problem. Look up Equalizer DV2 on YouTube. Theres an install video. I'm just crossing my fingers at this point. I dont have any leaks, my fluid tank is full, but the damn alarm goes off every 20-30 minutes while driving.
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Old 03-18-2020, 01:37 PM   #28
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Can you put an inline switch on the 12v power to the equalizer control panel, to manually remove the power from the controller? Power the panel on, level your rig, then remove the 12v from the panel by turning the switch off.
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Old 07-02-2020, 12:53 PM   #29
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Fixed

I finally got around to installing the DV2 kit from Equalizer. I'm happy to say we just returned from a 1k mile trip and the jack alarm did not go off once. I don't know the science behind the kit, but it worked. I suggest you email Equalizer if your are having a constant alarm problem. They only asked for the serial number of my Seneca, not the VIN, and I received the kit in the mail a couple days later. There is an install video on the Equalizer website to make things easy. Hope this helps someone. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-26-2022, 09:39 PM   #30
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Update #4 - hopefully the last.
After much back an forth with Jayco and not developing a solution, I remembered that lamigra had said that equalizer indicated cutting the pink wire.. cutting it did stop the beeping, but disabled the ignition warning. So I put a 6 amp diode in the pink wire with the cathode end facing the equalizer panel. This would allow signal to come in but not out.. the ignition warning now worked again. This also stopped the panel from coming back on after the jacks were deployed. Everything seems to work as it should, again. So far so good. Hopefully this is my final post on this matter🤪😹🤞🤞
Jesslinger the schematic and the other info you have posted along with Lamigra is outstanding. I have been trying to find the source of the problem and thought I had found it in the power converter. Put a new one in. Pulled my coach out of storage to get it ready for an Alaskan trip this summer and the darn dash lights are blinking again. So tomorrow I start anew. Not just working the diodes but putting a meter on those lines and finding out what kind of voltage or current bump is causing the issue. A diode is an electrical check valve lets only one half of a sine wave through. So if all the power is off what is causing some sort of ac signal?? Now that I have that schematic I can chase it back to the source. This actually could be fun.
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Old 05-31-2022, 08:43 PM   #31
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So here are a few of the interesting things I have found in the last couple of days.

The first little thing is that while the dash lights are blinking away, if you open one of the doors on the cab, the blinking stops. So I checked a little further and found that if I turned the coach dc power on and turned on a couple of lights the blinking stops again.

Okay so this looks like a voltage issue perhaps?? But what kind of voltage?
Reading the feedback wire to the leveler controls to ground I found an AC overlay on that wire that fluctuated from .116 VAC to .128VAC. This ac overlay had a peak frequency of 108 Hz. As a long time electronics engineer I can tell you from sad experience that AC on a DC circuit board is patently bad.

Anyway...

More checks. In testing the diode across the feedback line from the ignition system I ran my levelers down, and the blinking stopped again for a few minutes. After say 3 minutes they started again.

So I have a GoPower panel up top and it is charging all the time in the sunshine of Mesa Arizona. I disconnected the charge cable and ran the levelers down again, then sat for quite a while, and the lights did not blink on again. So my next guess is that the blinking is caused by a fully charged or overcharged battery system.

Trying to isolate where the AC came from I checked all the fuses in the truck engine compartment and found the ac on some of the fuse lines but by pulling the fuses I was not able to stop the blinking. So this tells me the blinking does not originate from the Freightliner portion of the coach.

Next I started at the battery compartment, lifting first the neutral legs from the coach batteries. The blinking did not stop. I did this with the positive cables on the coach batteries until the blinking stopped. I found a pair of wires that disappeared on top of the diesel fuel tank into the coach. When these are lifted my go power solar system does not operate.

It is my guess that there is a voltage regulator which is shunting AC voltage onto an intercommunication wire that talks to the truck voltage regulator. From there it is getting into the dash. But of course I have ZERO electrical schematics so I will begin the arduous task of getting Jayco to provide the drawings I need.

I will post again when I find out more.
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