Ford 450 modification for road sway

[Finchr1]

This site is incredible. I have sooo much to learn. Hopefully someday I can know enough to pass on useful suggestions like you guys and gals

[GABob]

I had added the Safe-T-Plus stabilizer and rear track bar (they install for you at their GA facility, just FYI) and can drive with one hand. Not saying you don't realize a truck is coming up on you, but the body movement has been significantly reduced.

[Finchr1]

The combination of high wind, Semi passing, and turns simaltaneously , just about shut off blood flow to my hands and I wondered why everyone loved the road in these. I can accept some but my Class C was moving around places I didn't want

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by don_kleinschnitz

Camper Bob,
I added front Hellwig sway bar and Sumo bump stops.

I am at rest after crossing I80 then I70 into st. Charles Missouri.
There was lots of wind and the improvement was remarkable.

I noticed:
The house does not tip nearly as much on turns and in the wind.

I still get push from Semi's but it's a lateral bump rather than a tip and push.

In general the house feels pretty stiff on the chassis now.

I have jride which I believe includes rear Hellwig sway bar and springs.

I wonder what the steering stabilizer would add to the performance?
I hadn't thought about its effect in a blowout but what else could I expect.

Is a rear swaybar and track bar the same thing?

Also wondering about rear bumpstops?

The steering stabilizer just adds a bit more “precision” to the steering feel. The stabilizer is constantly trying to push/pull the steering back to center. So it takes a bit of the “slop” out of the steering. And since it’s always trying to return to center, you expend less effort; lots of people describe it as “sawing at the wheel” referring to the constant steering input necessary to keep the rig going relatively straight down the road.

But chances are if you had a good alignment that properly addressed the caster setting, that constant correction is not necessary. Your steering will track better for that, and your post-stabilizer steering improvement will likely be far less dramatic. Also, people with shorter rigs have less of this problem it seems.

Rear sway bar and rear track bar are two completely different beasts. Sway bar is designed to limit body roll through a torsion action. It limits how far out of parallel the axle can get in relation to the frame. The track bar helps keep the frame centered over the axle by limiting lateral movement of the frame horizontally over the axle. The “seat of the pants” results of the rear track bar, the rear sway bar, and SUMO bump stops can all feel very similar, but each of them does in fact mitigate a separate and distinct issue.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Finchr1

Camper Bob,
I got the steering stabilizer, front and back Hellwig sway, rear Trac bar, and SumoFSB shocks all around. The camper is having solar put on top then we take it to a truck person for the alignment and chassis. This info is invaluable. I hoped the feel could be modified some

It will be a COMPLETELY different driving experience after installation of the items you listed.

[Weatherman1]

Not Sure if the 6" lift will do for stability, but the C.G. will be raised that much as well as that first step in and out of the rig!

[Skysoldier]

I also installed air bags that are adjustable by remote. Raise according to crosswind.

[Gord]

Originally Posted by Finchr1

As a first time RV'er, we were surprised at the amount of trailer movement by wind and semis. We got a 2019 Greyhawk Prestige fsp and drove it from CA to eastern VA in 4 days.
After some research I have heard to get rear and front stabilizers, TruCenter, 1 7/8 inch front Sumo spring, check alifgnment, and steering stabilizer. I was told the TruCenter would decrease sway if you blow a tire.
I know you can't get rid of wind push but I sincerely hope you can modify it.
My question is would all of these help as a whole or is there excessive redundancy in the part list I have presented ?

I have a 2019 Redhawk 31XL. Steering was awful from new. Took it to a truck alignment shop and they said everything was fine. I have now installed Roadmaster steering stabilizer, Roadmaster front and rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks, Sumo spring bumpers up front and Timbren spring bumpers in the rear. This is all the upgrades that are available. It is now excellent to drive, even in the wind it is improved. Notice I did not say perfect.

I also installed the 5Star tune package. More power, better acceleration, better transmission shifts, no more engine pinging.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Gord

I have a 2019 Redhawk 31XL. Steering was awful from new. Took it to a truck alignment shop and they said everything was fine. I have now installed Roadmaster steering stabilizer, Roadmaster front and rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks, Sumo spring bumpers up front and Timbren spring bumpers in the rear. This is all the upgrades that are available. It is now excellent to drive, even in the wind it is improved. Notice I did not say perfect.

I also installed the 5Star tune package. More power, better acceleration, better transmission shifts, no more engine pinging.

You could still add a SuperSteer track bar (SS450 is what mine uses). I have one already shipped and ready to install... but I have had a lot going on and still haven't had time to install it, from what I have read about them, it should make a very noticeable improvement particularly for side winds and trucks that are passing (or I am passing). ~CA

[Bubblehead]

Originally Posted by Weatherman1

Not Sure if the 6" lift will do for stability, but the C.G. will be raised that much as well as that first step in and out of the rig!

Did you view the video? It's properly engineered and stability is improved. We'll use a stepstool to deal with the increased ground clearance.

[daveobieone]

This thread is SO good, and SO filled with great, specific information, I've bookmarked it.

Someone should make this a sticky thread.

Dave O.

[Finchr1]

Sounds great and Our trailer is scheduled Tuesday to install modifications and align. I am so looking forward to a difference

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Finchr1

As a first time RV'er, we were surprised at the amount of trailer movement by wind and semis. We got a 2019 Greyhawk Prestige fsp and drove it from CA to eastern VA in 4 days.
After some research I have heard to get rear and front stabilizers, TruCenter, 1 7/8 inch front Sumo spring, check alifgnment, and steering stabilizer. I was told the TruCenter would decrease sway if you blow a tire.
I know you can't get rid of wind push but I sincerely hope you can modify it.
My question is would all of these help as a whole or is there excessive redundancy in the part list I have presented ?

Here’s my two cents, of what I did to my 2019 Redhawk, 25R class C;.


First I installed the road master steering stabilizer, like others recommended. Although it does help with bringing the steering back to center quickly and helps on ruddy roads, it does NOTHING, to help with sway. It’s simply physics! But I figured what the heck!


Then I Install the Firestone ride rite airbags in the rear, definitely improve the ride and the ride height and clearance is perfect, and also, it helps with even breaking. However it did not totally stop this sway.


I then installed the super steer track bar, BINGO!, that did the trick, with immediate results. Much better when towing also.


Then I said, “why stop there”, so I installed the road master front sway bar, it helped improve upon the handling greatly.


That I put in two front Monroe RV shocks. Glad I did, the old OEM’s were for junk, plastic sleeves and the bushings were already worn out! ,(rig is 2 years old, 17K miles!)

[Bubblehead]

Originally Posted by pconroy

We test drove a used 2014 31FK before we bought the 2016 31FK.
Handling on the 2014 was like steering the Exxon Valdez while coming off a 3 day bender.


There was no skill involved in driving - it was more aim and pray.


The '16 we ended up with had no such issues.
It's like driving a big van.


Go figure...

The previous owner may have done some suspension mods.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Gord

I have a 2019 Redhawk 31XL. Steering was awful from new. Took it to a truck alignment shop and they said everything was fine. I have now installed Roadmaster steering stabilizer, Roadmaster front and rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks, Sumo spring bumpers up front and Timbren spring bumpers in the rear. This is all the upgrades that are available. It is now excellent to drive, even in the wind it is improved. Notice I did not say perfect.

I also installed the 5Star tune package. More power, better acceleration, better transmission shifts, no more engine pinging.

That's because it was probably within Ford spec. The caster specification range is between like 2 and 7. With caster set in the lower range of the spec, the steering feels loose and sloppy, but set it up over 5, and it handles a lot better. Notice how both are within spec? So the alignment shop wasn't wrong to say "everything was fine", because technically it probably was. Just not optimal.

I'll probably install a tune in the next year or so, looking forward to experiencing what you did with the 5Star tune. I figure between that and the Supersteer Track Bar, I'll have done everything I can do.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

That's because it was probably within Ford spec. The caster specification range is between like 2 and 7. With caster set in the lower range of the spec, the steering feels loose and sloppy, but set it up over 5, and it handles a lot better. Notice how both are within spec? So the alignment shop wasn't wrong to say "everything was fine", because technically it probably was. Just not optimal.

I'll probably install a tune in the next year or so, looking forward to experiencing what you did with the 5Star tune. I figure between that and the Supersteer Track Bar, I'll have done everything I can do.

My issue with the tune is it doesn’t work while on cruise control, therefore, it is useless to me. I use cruise 99.9% of my drives. Wish there was something out there that did. I also found that the V10 doesn’t like to rev on cruise at 4,500 RPM fo more than one min while under a full load. On a 6% grade, It will cut out! But 3,700 rpm, under full load seems to be its sweet spot.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

My issue with the tune is it doesn’t work while on cruise control, therefore, it is useless to me. I use cruise 99.9% of my drives. Wish there was something out there that did. I also found that the V10 doesn’t like to rev on cruise at 4,500 RPM fo more than one min while under a full load. On a 6% grade, It will cut out! But 3,700 rpm, under full load seems to be its sweet spot.

I had not read that about cruise control. But that certainly gives me pause. I use cruise as much as I possibly can.

[Finchr1]

The truck mechanic said he could adjust the caster higher when I take it in next week. Invaluable info.
I wondered about the pros and cons of using cruise control .

[Johnynorthland]

Your on the highway for hours at a time, you should regulate your speed, for safety and fuel economy, especially with some toads having maximum speed limits when flat towing. I can not see not using cruise control in any RV. This is my 3rd rig, I’ve always used cruise control!

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Finchr1

The truck mechanic said he could adjust the caster higher when I take it in next week. Invaluable info.
I wondered about the pros and cons of using cruise control .

I use cruise most of the time. For smaller grades where I know the transmission will drop 2 gears, I nudge the throttle a little to get one gear down, and the rig will usually maintain speed over the grade. If I don't do this, it will bleed off 5 mph before it shifts, then downshift 2 gears and scream the rest of the way over the grade, and never make up that lost speed until it crests and starts going back down. I don't care so much about the speed, but I don't want to rev the motor if I don't have to. Like I said, one gear downshift is usually sufficient to pull the grade at 65-70 mph.

Cruise can't read the terrain (yet), so I find "managing" it a little helps.

If I'm going up and down several small grades, I'll shut it off. Like in a city where there are overpasses every 1/4 to 1/2 mile. If I just let the cruise drive on its own, the transmission would be shifting constantly, which creates heat, which kills transmission fluid, which kills transmissions. Better to just manage the throttle myself and keep the power/drive-train happy.

I'll usually cut the cruise off if I'm pulling a long, steep grade too.