Freightliner S2RV chassis slow fuel fill rate

[Giaburt]

Wonder if a hard round sleeve could be added over rubber fill line to prevent kinking

[RVr2]

Done. Problem resolved. Water tank lifted off fuel line. Fuel line popped back in place. Water tank now positioned properly and secured with two by fours. Water tank filled to capacity. Took Seneca over to Love’s to top off - took less than 10 minutes for 50 gallons. Thanks for everyone’s input and pictures. It was a huge help pinpointing the issue! Now...on the road again. Next stop FMCA RV Rally in Perry GA.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by RVr2

Done. Problem resolved. Water tank lifted off fuel line. Fuel line popped back in place. Water tank now positioned properly and secured with two by fours. Water tank filled to capacity. Took Seneca over to Love’s to top off - took less than 10 minutes for 50 gallons. Thanks for everyone’s input and pictures. It was a huge help pinpointing the issue! Now...on the road again. Next stop FMCA RV Rally in Perry GA.

Excellent news, glad it wasn't a major rebuild to correct the issue! Now it is time to just enjoy!

Let us know your driving impressions as time goes on. Very interested to hear how you like the power and the larger transmission.

[submariner]

Great news!Happy for you ! Safe travels!

[mikeccall]

Buying a 2018.5 Seneca this week. Hearing about existing mfg issues that are known is a little alarming...now knowing that there are probably other preexisting conditions likely not addressed by dealer or Jayco, I'm concerned. This slow fill/ kinked hose issue is on that I should have the dealer address before I take delivery, right?

Could someone kindly list any other newly identified problems? Thank you in advance!

[Mark S]

[QUOTE=Robbbyr;598630]Many of us have experienced sagging water tanks, Jayco repaired mine when it was at the factory service center for other issues. They bridged the frame rails with 1" steel tubing to hold up the compartment floor that the water tank resides in, preventing it from sagging. Other owners have done this fix on their own. It seems the poly water tank is quite "flexible".

So I pulled the cover to my fresh water tank after reading these posts and sure enough my tank is sitting on 3/4" foam. I haven't had any issues yet but I haven't filled more than about a 1/3 of the tank either.

I am wondering if I were to place plywood under the tank to spread the load across the entire compartment if that would help or is it the compartment floor itself that is weak? I realize the floor is thin poly something but are the corners strong enough to support the load?

[Robbbyr]

[QUOTE=Mark S;615747]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

Many of us have experienced sagging water tanks, Jayco repaired mine when it was at the factory service center for other issues. They bridged the frame rails with 1" steel tubing to hold up the compartment floor that the water tank resides in, preventing it from sagging. Other owners have done this fix on their own. It seems the poly water tank is quite "flexible".

So I pulled the cover to my fresh water tank after reading these posts and sure enough my tank is sitting on 3/4" foam. I haven't had any issues yet but I haven't filled more than about a 1/3 of the tank either.

I am wondering if I were to place plywood under the tank to spread the load across the entire compartment if that would help or is it the compartment floor itself that is weak? I realize the floor is thin poly something but are the corners strong enough to support the load?

I can't say for certain whether bridging the compartment with a piece of plywood would be enough, 70+ gallons of water weighs a lot as you well know! It would likely help, but I wonder if pounding down our perfectly maintained (not!) interstates would cause it to break even 3/4" plywood if it still is allowed to sag between the frame rails?

My poly compartment bottom did not initially rest on the frame rails, but it is supported there now due to the new Jayco-installed cross braces which "bridge" the frame rails preventing the sagging of the compartment floor and (as a result) the water tank. My tank is advertised as an 80 gallon tank, but I am making the assumption the installation is pretty much the same on newer models.

Have you verified Jayco has not installed cross braces on your unit since it seems obvious older ones did need some "help"? Sure would be an easy fix as they build new units!

[RVermont]

If you just put a piece of plywood without adding the support under the tub you will transfer a lot of the weight to the edges and corners of the plywood. I would be concerned about this large pressure on corners cutting into and through the rotocast material.

Even with this change the tank still sits unsupported for about 4” behind the shield that you removed.




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[Mark S]

I crawled under the RV today and sure enough, just like Rob said, it was unsupported. I am thinking I can put several 1'' steel square tubes under the compartment floor and on top of the frame rails to increase support.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Mark S

I crawled under the RV today and sure enough, just like Rob said, it was unsupported. I am thinking I can put several 1'' steel square tubes under the compartment floor and on top of the frame rails to increase support.

On my factory repair Jayco actually drilled the frame and installed self-tapping screws to anchor the new square steel tubes to the rails. Being me, I noticed my black and grey tanks doing the same thing even though they are basically "suspended" by their sides. They still were both sagging enough in the middle I know I wasn't emptying them completely due to the center sag. So I decided to replicate the water tank fix by inserting square steel tubes like Jayco did for my freshwater tank.

I say this because I tried to drill the frame like Jayco did and failed to hardly dent the steel. They must have better drill bits than me! I also did not want to weld them together, although it is unlikely I would compromise the frame I did not want to chance messing with it knowing I am going to install a Hydralift motorcycle lift and have 1,000+ pounds of Honda and Hydralift hanging back there. So I drilled the new tubes right next to the frame and installed a self-tapping screw and fender washers to "squeeze" the tubes in place. So far, so good.

Even though the black and grey tanks were hung by supports I was then able to slide rigid foam under the two tanks once the rotocast compartment was (now) supported underneath. That removed the "swale" and the tanks drain completely now. Plus I suspect I reduced the heat transfer somewhat in/out of those areas. That job was done when I had the tanks exposed anyway to install the SeeLevel tank monitors.

[Rustynuts]

While my 2018.5 fills not super fast, it’s not really that slow, not slow enough to tear into it. I can usually put it on the first notch on the handle. Only thing is twice now the nozzle has kicked off and puked diesel all down the side of the motorhome. I saw this on amazon and it works great, it just slips over the filler tube and flops out when you open the fuel door, then when done you fold it up and shut the door. Haven’t had a spill yet but should do the the trick if it does.

[Rustynuts]

I just got done with a major project of adding tank supports, removing macerator, insulating plumbing and slow fill issue. Mine wasn’t terrible slow but on a small nozzle pump I would have to hold the handle as on the first notch it would kick off. What I found in the project was the fill hose and vent wer not getting smashed but the hose off the tank was at about a 4 degree angle up but the fill nozzle was at about a 12 degree down angle and they use a straight hose to connect it, resulting in a kinked hose. While I had everything opened up, I was able to cut the fill hose on each side of the kink and install a short piece of tubing bent at a 8 degree angle and also cut a little of the plastic bay to let everything lay flat and float. This fixed my slow fill issue completely. I only had 3/4” between the frame rails and poly bin so I used 3/4”x1.5” x .120 wall tubing setting on frame rails and locked in place by screwing 1”x1” angle on the ends of the tubes.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

I just got done with a major project of adding tank supports, removing macerator, insulating plumbing and slow fill issue. Mine wasn’t terrible slow but on a small nozzle pump I would have to hold the handle as on the first notch it would kick off. What I found in the project was the fill hose and vent wer not getting smashed but the hose off the tank was at about a 4 degree angle up but the fill nozzle was at about a 12 degree down angle and they use a straight hose to connect it, resulting in a kinked hose. While I had everything opened up, I was able to cut the fill hose on each side of the kink and install a short piece of tubing bent at a 8 degree angle and also cut a little of the plastic bay to let everything lay flat and float. This fixed my slow fill issue completely. I only had 3/4” between the frame rails and poly bin so I used 3/4”x1.5” x .120 wall tubing setting on frame rails and locked in place by screwing 1”x1” angle on the ends of the tubes.

Gotta give you some props... that is what we call "fabrication" and the bend in the fixed tube shows it. The pictures make me suggest that you send them to Jayco, so they can see how this needs you solution permanently on all new models. Any decent engineer would see that the hose is going to kink, and be a problem for eternity.

Nice Job!

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

Nice Job!

X2!

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

Gotta give you some props... that is what we call "fabrication" and the bend in the fixed tube shows it. The pictures make me suggest that you send them to Jayco, so they can see how this needs you solution permanently on all new models. Any decent engineer would see that the hose is going to kink, and be a problem for eternity.

Nice Job!

Thanks, I thought about sending pics to them but do you really think it would do any good....I don’t. Of all the work I did in this project, redoing that filler was probably the easiest but it helped having everything else out of the way first. Retired woodworker but always did Fab and tube work for fun....wait till you see my bbq Mount I’m working on

[Rustynuts]

Update...I finally tried filling the tank after fixing the kinked filler hose and where I couldn’t even set the pump handle on the first click, I can now fill wide open on the nozzle! It’s kinda life changing.

[Gunfighter]

I have the S2 chassis and have not had any problems filling. I am now nervous of what is to come if things shift around and pinch the fill tube. What is the saying, an ounce of prevention. . . . I do have one frustration with the new rear 100 gallon tank with the DEF tank up under the driver’s door. If you like to fill at the major truck stops and fill with DEF a the pump you usually can’t reach the DEF tank after filling up with diesel without backing up. If an 18 wheeler pulls in behind you up close you are screwed. At Loves, Flying J and Pilot you cannot fill the DEF tank first, you must take on fuel first. I have resorted to pulling a trash can or orange cone behind my rig to allow room to back up. Annoying doing the start stop and back up to get the fuel and DEF taken care of. I have not tried to figure out if you can get pull far enough ahead to just reach with the diesel hose and just fill with the DEF hose.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Gunfighter

I have the S2 chassis and have not had any problems filling. I am now nervous of what is to come if things shift around and pinch the fill tube.

If you have never had the problem you should be fine. Our 37RB was a very early build and I think they took care of it pretty quick. Nothing was actually pinching the filler hose, its just a matter of fact that you cant bend a round rubber tube at an angle without kinking it. There was about a 12° bend in the rubber hose for the transition up to the filler neck. They just needed a filler hose with a molded in bend in it and that would have fixed the problem. I had to go with the metal tube as I had no access to the top pf the tank without dropping it.

[RVermont]

It also was related to the model number as they change slightly in where the hose enters the compartment and the layout of the tanks and pvc piping.

[Gunfighter]

Thanks to the both of you for your advice. When I get a chance I am going to do a look-see to determine if they improved their design. Rusty you are a testament to "idle hands are the work of the devil." Thanks for making us all envious. Cheers.