Frig shows low battery

[Bobby B]

You access the wiring at the outside panel. Mine was a green and white going to the control board. I then ran 12gauge zip cord down the same hole where all the wiring goes and then across the frame underneath to where my battery is and terminated it at the battery with a 10amp fuse. Hope this helps.

[Travlin2]

12v green wire plug on the back of the frig. Mine is accessed from the outside panal right behind the frig. Where the green wire plugs into to the frig there is a white ground wire beside it. On the green wire it says in small print 12v.

[rodpod]

Originally Posted by Bobby B

You access the wiring at the outside panel. Mine was a green and white going to the control board. I then ran 12gauge zip cord down the same hole where all the wiring goes and then across the frame underneath to where my battery is and terminated it at the battery with a 10amp fuse. Hope this helps.

Thanks for all the help. I am on it

[rodpod]

Should i re-terminate the ground as well?

[Bobby B]

Short answer yes. I brought power and ground back to the battery.

[rodpod]

Originally Posted by Bobby B

Short answer yes. I brought power and ground back to the battery.

Ok thanks, I'll do the same. did you just cut the green and cover it? I know it feeds the radio and propane sensor. I imagine being cut at the fridge wouldn't affect them?n I looked it over and since i have the same coach as you, it appears to be an easy fix.

[Bobby B]

Yes, I cut and capped both wires and ty wrapped them in the bundle of wires.

[deepsea5]

Did Jayco hire their engineers from Bombardier (Ski-Doo snowmobiles)? This topic brings back memories of the wiring issues on my 2006 Ski-Doo Mach Z snowmobile.

[Xasa]

I've been having this same low voltage issue with my 2021 Entegra Esteem 27U when boon docking. These posts have been very helpful, but I still have a couple of questions. Hope you can clarify things.

I've now run a new 14g wire from the back of the fridge compartment through the coach to the fuse panel under the bed. Nothing hooked up yet, but I have a open spot in the panel for a new fuse. I disconnected the green wire from the back of the fridge and now the light for the main power switch isn't coming on (thanks Travlin2 for explaining that).

So... how do I keep the existing green fridge wire "in the loop" so the radio and main power light work while using the new, dedicated, line to power the fridge?

Do I need to run a new ground wire? Some of you have said you did. It just seems to me that the ground wires all, essentially, go the same place (like the ground terminal on the fuse box) so I don't understand needing a new wire. Please explain.

Thank you!

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Xasa

I've been having this same low voltage issue with my 2021 Entegra Esteem 27U when boon docking. These posts have been very helpful, but I still have a couple of questions. Hope you can clarify things.

I've now run a new 14g wire from the back of the fridge compartment through the coach to the fuse panel under the bed. Nothing hooked up yet, but I have a open spot in the panel for a new fuse. I disconnected the green wire from the back of the fridge and now the light for the main power switch isn't coming on (thanks Travlin2 for explaining that).

So... how do I keep the existing green fridge wire "in the loop" so the radio and main power light work while using the new, dedicated, line to power the fridge?

Do I need to run a new ground wire? Some of you have said you did. It just seems to me that the ground wires all, essentially, go the same place (like the ground terminal on the fuse box) so I don't understand needing a new wire. Please explain.

Thank you!

I encountered the low voltage problem and solved it by piggy backing a new 14 gauge wire along side whatever Jayco used. Totally solved the problem.

I WOULD NOT run it to a different fuse as that could present a problem when over current required a fuse to blow and you had 2 different power feeds. You can use a ScotchLok to connect the wires together at each end. For what you are doing, this should work just fine.

As far as the additional ground wire, it all depends on what is currently in place. I think I added an additional ground wire from the fridge to the ground block under the rig that was attached to the frame. Can't hurt. If that wire would be a hassle you can easily determine if it is needed by firing up the fridge and comparing the voltage measured at the coach battery versus what is measured at the fridge. If they are within a few tenths of a volt, I wouldn't bother with the ground wire. In any event, I would compare measurements just to see how things improved.

[SloPoke]

I have posted in a number of threads about the refrigerator power cable that is also tied into the dash radio and the propane sensor circuit. Jayco discovered that the sizing of the wire coming from the circuit panel to all of those devices was introducing a larger voltage drop at the fridge.
I had jayco do a warranty repair where they ran a separate wire from my batteries to the norcold refrigerator since the wiring was not able to handle all of the power of all of these other different devices needed on that same circuit. Jayco would not pay the warranty costs to fix it right, So what CW did for our Seneca was run a new wire that was a separate wire from the circuits powering the radio and Propane sensor that was run directly from the battery compartment (not run separately from our fuse panel). It needs to be a number 14 wire so it can handle the power requirements that the refrigerator may possibly draw.

CW claimed that Jayco would only pay for 1/2 hour of labor to fix the problem, and our battery compartment is directly below the fridge, so they ran a separate fused wire to the fridge, and left the others on the original circuit.
It has worked fine ever since...

[Xasa]

Originally Posted by JimD

I encountered the low voltage problem and solved it by piggy backing a new 14 gauge wire along side whatever Jayco used. Totally solved the problem.

I WOULD NOT run it to a different fuse as that could present a problem when over current required a fuse to blow and you had 2 different power feeds. You can use a ScotchLok to connect the wires together at each end. For what you are doing, this should work just fine.

So, if I understand you correctly, I will just splice my new 14g wire at each end to the existing wire. That leaves the circuit undisturbed but gives the fridge access to a better gauge wire. That's simple enough since I already ran the new wire.

Then test to see if the present ground wire is sufficient for the job. Got it.

Thank you!

[Scoutmaster253]

Originally Posted by Xasa

So, if I understand you correctly, I will just splice my new 14g wire at each end to the existing wire. That leaves the circuit undisturbed but gives the fridge access to a better gauge wire. That's simple enough since I already ran the new wire.

Then test to see if the present ground wire is sufficient for the job. Got it.

Thank you!

No, I think you misunderstood. Leave the existing wire in place. Run a NEW 14g wire from the fridge to the same spot where the existing wire gets its power. The two wires will be Side by Side when you are done.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Xasa

So, if I understand you correctly, I will just splice my new 14g wire at each end to the existing wire. That leaves the circuit undisturbed but gives the fridge access to a better gauge wire. That's simple enough since I already ran the new wire.

Then test to see if the present ground wire is sufficient for the job. Got it.

Thank you!

Exactly what I meant. I used a ScotchLok connector to piggy back the wire to the current wire at each end of the current wire. The end result was 2 wires running in parallel on the same fuse. Connect the wire as close as you can to each end of the wire. The inch or so of wire that will connect to the fridge and fuse block will not cause any noticable voltage drop.

If you replace the wire to the fridge with a new one and abandon the old one, the feed to the propane detector and radio may be lost.

A voltage reading at the battery and fridge while it is running after you connect the wire will confirm your work. Please let us know if it solved your problem.

[LukeDagny]

Jim,

I've read your reply about low voltage supply for a Norcold fridge.

I used a ScotchLok connector to piggy back the wire to the current wire at each end of the current wire. The end result was 2 wires running in parallel on the same fuse. Connect the wire as close as you can to each end of the wire.

I plan to run a parallel wire, but have a question. I have extra circuits available in my DC distribution panel. What do you think about putting the parallel wire, to the refrigerator, on it's own fuse?

I would also disconnect the existing power wire from the back of the refrigerator, and use only the new parallel wire as the power supply.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by LukeDagny

Jim,

I've read your reply about low voltage supply for a Norcold fridge.


I plan to run a parallel wire, but have a question. I have extra circuits available in my DC distribution panel. What do you think about putting the parallel wire, to the refrigerator, on it's own fuse?

I would also disconnect the existing power wire from the back of the refrigerator, and use only the new parallel wire as the power supply.

I would not run 2 separate lines on different fuses as it would complicate things for fuse protection. You should either piggy back with the current wire or run a new heavier gauge wire with its own fuse and disconnect the original.

Having 2 separate fused lines would work but if there was a problem requiring the fuse to blow, it may not blow as expected. If one blew and the other didn't you would end up with your low voltage problem again. Just my opinion.

[LukeDagny]

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. I had to wait 12 minutes

You should either piggy back with the current wire or run a new heavier gauge wire with its own fuse and disconnect the original.

I plan to run a new heavier gauge wire, with its own fuse, and disconnect the original power wire at the back of the refrigerator.

I don't want two separate fused lines to the fridge.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by LukeDagny

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. I had to wait 12 minutes



I plan to run a new heavier gauge wire, with its own fuse, and disconnect the original power wire at the back of the refrigerator.

I don't want two separate fused lines to the fridge.

Sorry it took so long. I had to edit my reply a couple of times. My email alerts me to new messages and I typically answer right away, that is if I have an answer.

Good luck on your project! There is always something to do on these rigs. I am camping right now and have a new list started. Groan...

[LukeDagny]

Update:
I used an older Jayco 12V schematic, but it matched what I found on 2023 Greyhawk 31F. The power to my fridge starts as a red wire, and turns to green after splitting off to the radio and CO detector.

I ran a separate 14 gauge wire from my DC distribution panel to my refrigerator. The new wire is on it's own fuse (I had 5 unused circuits available on my DC panel). I disconnected to original power supply to the refrigerator. I taped it up and placed it out of the way, but it's available for future use.

Before the new wire, I had 12.3 volts to the refrigerator and 13.6 at the battery. Now I have 13.5 volts to the refrigerator. I believe this should help me with the low voltage problem I had while boondocking.

Running the new wire wasn't too bad on my 31F. I had to drill one hole downward from behind the fridge. I ran the wire down this hole, under the water heater, under the shower, behind the vanity, behind the nightstand to under the bed.

I used multiple methods to run the wire, including reaching with my arms, taping the end of the wire to a straightened clothes hanger, and taping the end of the wire to a measuring tape.

My DC distribution panel is under my bed. I propped the platform up and removed the piece of paneling that covered the rat's nest of wiring. It looked like the person that ran the AC wires was not the same person that ran the DC wires. Several places I found wires stretched or with no slack. I rerouted them to eliminate the taught condition. I also noticed my transfer switch was mounted on a vertical surface with only one screw. I corrected that issue, too.