Generator Carb Varnished

[bgermane]

Looks like my carb is gummed-up. For a million different reasons we weren't able to get to our coach in storage for about 4+ months. After priming it, the generator will start but shuts-down after a few seconds. Fault code is fuel related. Will do some diagnostics to rule out fuel filter and pump this weekend. Does anyone have any experience with trying to clean these carbs? Any chance with filling the bowl with cleaner, running it through, and repeating? Or does it need to be rebuilt?

[TexasRT]

Save yourself some time and buy a new carb. These are not designed to be torn down and cleaned or rebuilt. You can try it but don't get your hopes up. Been there done that. Your low speed jet is clogged. SEE BELOW


One thing I would highly recommend is to install a simple inline shut-off valve in the fuel line (if your fuel is gas) and always turn the fuel off and let it run until it shuts off. This is really important if you don't run the genset regularly, otherwise the gas in the carburator will probably gum up and cause issues. Also make sure you add Stabil fuel additive to the gas, this will help prevent the fuel from deteriating after setting for real long periods of time.

[rodandmir]

You can thank the ethanol in the fuel for that.
This is why I only use Chevron 94 with no ethanol.
From bikes that I have bought with gummed up carbs, I can say that the only way to get them clean is to remove the jets and use a piece of fine wire to scrape the goo out of the jets.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by rodandmir

I can say that the only way to get them clean is to remove the jets and use a piece of fine wire to scrape the goo out of the jets.

Being a 2012 the carb is probably sealed (thanks to CALIF) so as TexasRT said plan on buying a new one.

[bgermane]

My service center is quoting me +/-$250 to rebuild the carb. Now you all have me wondering if that is even worth it.

[Jagiven]

An inline fuel valve would be a great idea. ethanol is evil!

[Crabman]

All my power equipment now only gets non ethanol gas. Costs about 80 cents more a gallon but well worth it. Also use the marine grade Sta-Bil.

[TexasRT]

Originally Posted by bgermane

My service center is quoting me +/-$250 to rebuild the carb. Now you all have me wondering if that is even worth it.

If I remember correctly, I payed about that or a little less for a brand new carb from a RV supply house. For some reason $230 comes to mind. It literally take about 30 mins to replace. I would personally buy a new one for that price. Maybe yours is different than mine, mine was a 2005 model genset. The carb I bought last year was a carbon copy of the original, only difference was the gas line hookup tube.

[bgermane]

Thanks Texas. What about readjusting it? The service manual describes a method that requires a load bank and adjusting the rpm based on hertz. Do you recall the name of the store you purchased yours?

Thanks all. I know I should have put a stabilizer in the tank, but I never intended for it to sit so long.

[TexasRT]

Originally Posted by bgermane

What about readjusting it? The service manual describes a method that requires a load bank and adjusting the rpm based on hertz.

No need for that if it's just a bad carb. The new carb is preset, bolt it on hookup excactly like the old one and you're done. The setting your referring to is if you have other issues. If it was running fine before it sat with gas in it and gummed up, a carb will fix it.
The only difference in my old carb and the new one was my original had an inline filter at the gas line hookup and one underneath the genset. The new one didn't have the one on the carb itself. My parts guy called Onan and they said they eleminated the extra filter. It will work, have faith. LOL


Edited - The store was PPL RV in Houston

[bgermane]

That sounds great. Found it online for $270. My local service center will sell it to me for $330. Sounds like a no-brainer. Thanks to everyone for your help.

[moonraker1]

Save your money . Go get a can of sea foam . Put the whole can in a gas can with one gallon of gas and use a short fuel line to the fuel pump . Make sure you pinch the fuel line that your taking off . Prime the generator and start it several times till the mixture is in the carb let it sit for a day and it will clean itself . you can pour the rest in the motorhome tank after

[MrKong]

+1 on the Seafoam. I don't think I would put a whole can with 1 gallon, but it does wonders for small motors.

I always keep some in everything from lawn equipment, ATV's and my generator. Besides synthetic motor oil in them, Seafoam is one of the best things you can do for them if you can't buy ethanol free fuel.

[snowbird47]

Originally Posted by rodandmir

You can thank the ethanol in the fuel for that.
This is why I only use Chevron 94 with no ethanol.
From bikes that I have bought with gummed up carbs, I can say that the only way to get them clean is to remove the jets and use a piece of fine wire to scrape the goo out of the jets.

Originally Posted by Crabman

All my power equipment now only gets non ethanol gas. Costs about 80 cents more a gallon but well worth it. Also use the marine grade Sta-Bil.

That is all well and good, guys (or gals), but if your generator is like mine, it runs off the main fuel tank and not it's own. It would not take too many 55 gal. fill-ups with ethanol free gas to pay for a new carb.

[bgermane]

I'll give the seafoam a try and let everyone know. It's a cheap experiment if nothing else. If I end up having to replace the crab, do I need to replace the fuel pump as well? I plan to replace the fuel filter, but I'm wondering if varnish in the pump could find it's way into the new carb.

[TexasRT]

Originally Posted by bgermane

I'll give the seafoam a try and let everyone know. It's a cheap experiment if nothing else. If I end up having to replace the crab, do I need to replace the fuel pump as well? I plan to replace the fuel filter, but I'm wondering if varnish in the pump could find it's way into the new carb.

You should be fine with just the carb. The whole problem is, the fuel orfices in the carbs are so small it doesn't take but the slightest clog to effect the operation. The fuel pump doesn't have that problem. Hopefully the seafoam will work for you..

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by snowbird47

That is all well and good, guys (or gals), but if your generator is like mine, it runs off the main fuel tank and not it's own. It would not take too many 55 gal. fill-ups with ethanol free gas to pay for a new carb.

Oh yes, that would not work......I suppose regular genny running and additives when stored is the only solution in that case.

[TWP723]

Originally Posted by TexasRT

Save yourself some time and buy a new carb. These are not designed to be torn down and cleaned or rebuilt. You can try it but don't get your hopes up. Been there done that. Your low speed jet is clogged. SEE BELOW


One thing I would highly recommend is to install a simple inline shut-off valve in the fuel line (if your fuel is gas) and always turn the fuel off and let it run until it shuts off. This is really important if you don't run the genset regularly, otherwise the gas in the carburator will probably gum up and cause issues. Also make sure you add Stabil fuel additive to the gas, this will help prevent the fuel from deteriating after setting for real long periods of time.

x2! Sta-Bil will save you money my friend. Put it in my boat every winter. As far as the valve...did that to my home generator. It's a must. Do exactly what TexasRT said. Let it run till it shuts off.

[MrKong]

Run Seafoam in the main tank. It could probably use a can or two to clean everything. Then just a little to maintain it.

[Hahndavid1]

Try some Sea Foam additive it works for me. Like others in this post I try to run all ethanol free gas. Sometimes ethonal free gas can be hard to find. With that said when you run that ethanol junk , give Sea Foam a try