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12-15-2015, 08:44 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cumming
Posts: 117
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Generator overheating solution?
My generator has sputtered and quit on me a few times this summer while on a trip from Georgia to Arizona and Utah. The mechanics I've talked to have told me it is due to "vaporlock". They said the heat from the air, plus the heat coming from the engine causes the gasoline to vaporize in the line so that they pump can't pump enough fuel to the generator. They also mentioned that the generator's air intake is nearly covered by the access door, since there is only about 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance from the door to the intake. I removed the door from the RV and that seemed to help a lot, but the RV looks like crap with that door missing and the green Onan door visible. I've considered cutting a hole in the door and installing a vent to allow the generator to get more air. I've toyed with the idea of just putting a mesh screen over the hole, using a vent that would be used on the eaves of a house, or a boat engine vent.
Has anyone else had this issue and resolved it? I'd love to hear what you did.
__________________
Current:
2017 Jayco Seneca 37TS
Toad: 2009 Ford Flex
Former:
2015 Jayco Greyhawk 31DS
Toad: 2009 Ford Flex
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12-15-2015, 08:56 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 15,943
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If everything is open underneath it gets plenty of air. Don't forget if you get to a 1/4 tank or less of fuel the geny will shut down so you don't get stranded (out of gas) someplace. So if your at or close to 1/4 while driving it will shut down.
__________________
DISNEY LOVERS
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12-15-2015, 09:36 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cumming
Posts: 117
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wasn't the fuel level
We checked the fuel level and it was well over 1/2 a tank whenever the generator would quit. I would have thought that it was getting enough air as it was, but it just doesn't seem too. This has only happened when it was about 95 in Georgia and 106 in New Mexico. In New Mexico, it was working fine, but we stopped to check into a campground and after running for a few minutes while stopped it cut off again.
__________________
Current:
2017 Jayco Seneca 37TS
Toad: 2009 Ford Flex
Former:
2015 Jayco Greyhawk 31DS
Toad: 2009 Ford Flex
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12-15-2015, 10:05 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 15,943
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Your control panel should be flashing a fault code which will give you a good indication of the problem. 14 ( one then four) indicates a fuel issue. Those codes are readily found on the internet.
__________________
DISNEY LOVERS
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12-15-2015, 10:37 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Campbell Hall
Posts: 2,835
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If you are mechanically inclined, consider re-routing the fuel line. Away from the hot engine, exhaust system, etc.
__________________
TT 2015 19RD "TheJayco"
TV 2003 F-350 "Montblanc" - Housebroken chore truck
Sitting in The Cheap Seats.
And proud of it!
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12-18-2015, 01:35 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
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Are you having this problem while traveling or camping? If its getting hot while traveling consider making some sort of air dam or ram air hose to direct more air around the genny. If it shuts down while parked keep the door open and direct a small fan at it. Like mike said keep the fuel line away from the heat.
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01-28-2016, 09:00 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Bethel Park
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvteach77
My generator has sputtered and quit on me a few times this summer while on a trip from Georgia to Arizona and Utah. The mechanics I've talked to have told me it is due to "vaporlock". They said the heat from the air, plus the heat coming from the engine causes the gasoline to vaporize in the line so that they pump can't pump enough fuel to the generator. They also mentioned that the generator's air intake is nearly covered by the access door, since there is only about 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance from the door to the intake. I removed the door from the RV and that seemed to help a lot, but the RV looks like crap with that door missing and the green Onan door visible. I've considered cutting a hole in the door and installing a vent to allow the generator to get more air. I've toyed with the idea of just putting a mesh screen over the hole, using a vent that would be used on the eaves of a house, or a boat engine vent.
Has anyone else had this issue and resolved it? I'd love to hear what you did.
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We have had this ongoing issue with our 2011 Greyhawk DS since we bought it new. Dealer has taken it to Cummings twice. It seems to happen only when we're on the road and after its been running for about an hour or if it's hot outside and we're traveling. Never let our gas get below 1/2 tank. Dealer has taken it to Cummings twice and they can't figure it. Dealer finally has decided it's over heating
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01-28-2016, 09:19 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go
If you are mechanically inclined, consider re-routing the fuel line. Away from the hot engine, exhaust system, etc.
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And run it with some metal fuel line for a considerably longer distance. This should help cool the fuel better and hopefully prevent vapor lock. There are more expensive solutions but this generally works like a charm.
__________________
2016 Jayco Eagle 330RSTS = " Madame Maxime"
Maxxis M8008 E rated Tires and 16" Wheel Upgrade
Dual A/C 15K BTU, 14K Equalizer WD hitch with SC
King Bed with Java Interior, (2X) Yamaha EF2000isV2
2012 Ram 4500, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, MegaCab = " Hagrid"
8'x12' BMCM Stake Bed, Cabin Chassis, 2WD
360 degree Virtual Tour
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01-29-2016, 06:01 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Maplesville - Home Base
Posts: 3,059
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If you can find it, fill your tank with non-ethanol gas. You will need to run your tank down as low as possible to leave as little ethanol in the tank as possible. Then try your road trip. Ethanol gas vaporizes much easier than non-ethanol. If your problem goes away then you have vapor-lock as was mentioned above. The only solutions I know of for this issue is: non-ethanol fuel all the time (more expensive and not always availablel), fuel cooling prior to the generator (expensive ?), or only travel in the winter (not a good option).
The problem is ethanol in gas. It needs to go away IMHO.
__________________
Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS, Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X, TST Systems 507 TPMS, RV Flex Armor Roof
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02-01-2016, 12:13 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Elk city
Posts: 186
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If you can find a custom metal shop that does luver work, like everyone used to do to their car hoods and pickup tail gates. That would look pretty good on that gen. Door. A old trick that I used to see many times on the old carburetor cars is wooden clothesline pens. Guys would place them about 2 inches apart on the gas line to help displace the heat. Don't laugh until you try it!
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07-29-2016, 08:37 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Riverview
Posts: 316
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i know this topic is fairly old and relatively unanswered given the question from the OP. I was reviewing another forum and the following is what this person did to handle al of the issues the OP lined up. While the post covers part numbers, the origin of those part numbers is not disclosed. I have a query into that thread for the source. here is the write up from the other forum:
Quote:
So this past trip, I was having the generator shutdown uncommanded due to what I believe is vapor lock. I took it into Onan and they couldn't figure anything out. Tech said they typically install an aux fuel pump inline with the factory one, outside of the Onan compartment. He said that would resolve the vapor lock issue. But I also noticed that the 2017 models now come with a generator vent on the door panel. So I emailed FR asking how I'd go about purchasing this vent/shroud since I don't have an FR dealer near me so I can resolve the vapor lock issue. They offered to send the vent/shroud to me for free and apologize for the inconvenience. I was pleasantly surprised for sure. I just didn't want a generic cover on the side of our 2015 30DS. Anyways, here are some pic of the installs if it helps anyone.
Tools I used on the vent install was an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, hole saw with drill, and a flat/half radius file. I need to order some lap sealant and butyl tape along with getting some screws from Lowes. But this should resolve any vapor lock concerns for sure. Between the shroud/Gen, I have about 1/2-3/4" gap. Definitely feel the cool intake air rushing into the generator. I had to trim the outer ring as well as the depth of the shroud.
Vent Cover PN: 70A08495A
Vent Shroud PN: 70A08493A
For the fuel pump, I replaced the old stock one with a new one in case it was getting weak from being so hot and moved the fuel filter aft of the aux pump. Solder into the same power supply for both pumps. Tech at Onan said the PCB can handle the additional amps.
Aux Fuel Pump: Airtex E11005 ($49)
Wix Filter (33001): $4
Replacement OEM Pump: Airtex E11006 ($33)
Brass barb fitting, 1/4"ID x 1/8" NPT ($2)
Hope this info helps someone.
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Carl & Dawn
2015 Greyhawk 31FS (with 4x4 conversion by Ujoint Offroad)
2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid (our TOAD on a DEMCO Dolly)
DW, DSx2, DDx2 Catx2 Dog
Tampa Bay Area of FL
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