Girard GSWH-2 3rd generation tankless water heater

[jgerhard]

Hi Wyn,

I was able to make the swap to the Suburban myself. Total cost was just under $500. The hardest part was running the 120VAC for the electric heater but even that wasn't too bad.

Pics here:

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...lbums1132.html

Hope this helps,

James

[NC Roamer]

Does Jayco no longer swap out the Girard under warranty? It required several calls from our dealer and one from me, but they finally agreed to replace ours this past spring.

[jgerhard]

I've heard in some cases Jayco will pay for a swap. I have zero confidence in my Jayco dealer and their service department however. I've seen what they can do... Worth it for me to do it myself.

[pconroy]

I learned something new today - I plunked an inexpensive Camco pressure reducer on (for the first time) and we had bad temperature fluctuations while showering!

I pulled the pressure regulator off, and our Gen II Girard went back to working fine.

Makes me wonder how many folks who have problems with their Girard might be having low pressure problems?

I know there's not too many of us, but so far, I'm in the "I like it" camp for the Girard water heaters.

[NitroStar]

Mine works but it is too hot for me. Still trying to figure it out. Got Therm set at 110 and it runs from 116 to 120. I'm trying to find info on outside adjustments. When I try to turn any cold on, heater turns off. Seems like plenty of water flow though. WAY more than my previous travel trailer.

[WDW]

I'm with you on the pressure regulator. I came to the same conclusion also if you double filter, one at the hose and the built I filter there can be issues. I've stopped using the hose in line filter too.

PS- we liked it so much on out Greyhawk that we had one installed on our new Coachmen.

[Davidmac]

We do not use a regulator or outside filter they caused too much temperature fluctuation if you try to use them . With out them we can add cold water slowly to adjust the temperature most of the time. The shower head has the water restriction removed also . Best not to turn off the water while showering , just be quick if you don't have full hook up .

[WaltW]

Altitude can affect gas appliances with sufficient change in altitude and may require adjustment (it says so in some of my appliance owner's manuals). Start in Houston where the altitude is sea level or below and drive to 7000 feet and you may have a problem. Go from Denver at 5000 ft to 7000 ft not so much.

Really prefer the gas/electric WH. Only wish that it was the 10 gal. If I get another rig the WH is a show stopper.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by WaltW

mReally prefer the gas/electric WH. Only wish that it was the 10 gal. If I get another rig the WH is a show stopper.

The best thing I did in my Seneca was to replace the tankless with a 10-gallon Atwood XT. Did require cutting a larger opening but overall it wasn't that bad of an install. May not fit in a smaller unit, but plenty of room in mine. I love using campground power to heat water compared to always burning my propane. And even with 5 of us showering here I have yet to run out of hot water.

I also have a 2 gallon accumulator in my system, so even on the pump/tank I can have just a trickle of hot water flowing without any pulsation or temperature fluctuations. And not a bit of "fussing" to make that happen.

[alvinator]

We have a Gen 3.The nice folks at Jayco advised us to just adjust the temp to our liking and do not turn on the cold water at all. So we set the thermostat at 105 degrees and it works great.

[Ryanandcollette]

Ours will scald you then cool you down real quick! Invigorating!!😉

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Ryanandcollette

Ours will scald you then cool you down real quick! Invigorating!!😉

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

Do a little reading on here about how others have coped and resolved this problem.

[Ryanandcollette]

Thanks, I will check it out

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

[NitroStar]

I went to Lowes and picked up a 3/4" Well's regulator and all the fittings to adapt to water hoses and installed gauge after the regulator. I have it adjusted to 55 psi when static and it drops to high 40's with shower hot water on. Now, it gets down to 109 degrees and somebody can use cold water in another faucet and it doesn't affect the person in the shower! Oh, I also installed a brass Y garden hose fitting, that doesn't have cutoff valves on it, right on the main water supply line which has large passageways instead of the small ones found on Y's with cutoff valves on them. I believe this helped also.

[Hailey]

I have been with out my unit for over a month because of the tank-less system I am stuck with. Only a month you say, yeah but I've only had it 5 months so that is 20% of the payments that I have made. maybe if they took over our mortgage while it's in the shop, things might get done faster.
I first off have a 3rd gen system (I think). I started my saga with no hot water, then banging the solenoid to get hot water, and now I'm in the heat the hell out of the water mode. 103 - 120 hey it's only water.... but I look terrible with red skin. they replaced the solenoid valve and said all is great, we went away for a weekend to test things and the temps kept running up and down.
I went back to C.W. who is my local Jayco repair center and after five more days the actual service manager came out to show me that the system works. he used a meat thermometer in the water flow from the sink faucet and said that this is as good as it gets, what did I expect? I expect more professionalism than a meat thermometer.
I have an electronic temp gun and it shows the temp cycling + or - 20 degrees using either tank or city water. I have asked C.W. to replace the tank-less with a 6 gallon conventional tank. they are now trying to get Jayco to approve. Waiting 1 week so far for their answer.

[Davidmac]

No hot water this morning . Thanks to reading this forum . I had hot water again in a few minuets . First I checked the reset switch it was not tripped . Then good sharp rap on the gas modulation valve , Now we have hot water . That was the first time I have had to do that . Hope that does it for a while . We still have 6 days left on our trip . My Thanks to this forum .

[norty1]

Maybe they should hang a hammer next to the valve from the factory?

[blujay40]

Originally Posted by norty1

Maybe they should hang a hammer next to the valve from the factory?

...........and a clearly readable sticker that says "bang really hard here"!

[jrnert]

Originally Posted by jgerhard

I have the Girard GSWH-2 the 3rd generation Tankless on demand water heater. It works flawlessly when using full hookups but not so much when boon-docking. Since I mostly boon-dock, I'm replacing it with a standard Atwood water heater. It's for sale if anyone is interested.

There is a great new product on the market that solves the problem of wasting water when dry camping whether you have a tank or tankless water heater. I saw a demo of the product at a rally in August. It's called the "Shower Miser", go to Aqua View, Inc. – Results You Can See for further information. It retails for about $55 and solves the problem of wasting water.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by jrnert

There is a great new product on the market that solves the problem of wasting water when dry camping whether you have a tank or tankless water heater. I saw a demo of the product at a rally in August. It's called the "Shower Miser", go to Aqua View, Inc. – Results You Can See for further information. It retails for about $55 and solves the problem of wasting water.

I looked and read the info on their website. It may be interesting to some who like to keep up with the latest, but for me wasting water in my rv is not a major problem. The hw heater is less than 10 feet from any faucet in the rig.