Heater plug leak

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by SoulReflection

Great points here! Do you have a recommended parts list and do you think an anode plug is a good option?

If you don't have one in yours be ready to replace the tank. Mine had very tiny pinholes that leaked water under the trailer.

[SoulReflection]

Originally Posted by Bayoutalker

If you don't have one in yours be ready to replace the tank. Mine had very tiny pinholes that leaked water under the trailer.

Thanks for the heads up but got mine last fall, used it for four days and it has sat empty since then, no thanks to pneumonia followed by this covid crap.

Never new this nylon plug did not include an anode. If I did, I would have replaced it at the start. I appreciate what anodes do both in outboard motors and the 2012 Montana. With constant use, that Montana anode had to be changed out twice in 9 years. $15 each is a lot less than a new hot water tank.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by SoulReflection

Thanks for the heads up but got mine last fall, used it for four days and it has sat empty since then, no thanks to pneumonia followed by this covid crap.



Never new this nylon plug did not include an anode. If I did, I would have replaced it at the start. I appreciate what anodes do both in outboard motors and the 2012 Montana. With constant use, that Montana anode had to be changed out twice in 9 years. $15 each is a lot less than a new hot water tank.

You are correct, mine was $230 and I installed it myself. The anode was less than $10. If you have a plastic plug it is not an anode. For it to work, an anode must be grounded to the tank.

[SoulReflection]

Originally Posted by Bayoutalker

You are correct, mine was $230 and I installed it myself. The anode was less than $10. If you have a plastic plug it is not an anode. For it to work, an anode must be grounded to the tank.

Thank you for that!

[Cavie]

Atwood WH's are Aluminium. No anode rod involved. The plug is nylon. Replace with same. Do not use brass or steal.

[ruralIN]

Sorry, just saw this post today. If you haven't already got this fixed I'll tell you what I did. I took a 1/2 drive socket extension on a ratchet and heated it with a torch. Doesn't have to be too hot, just enough to melt its way into the nylon. Let it cool and ratchet it out. On mine at least, the 1/2' square fit right in with ease.

[SUP]

When using these plastic plugs it's important to make sure you don't cross thread and you don't need and should not use tape. Also these plugs should just be snuged up and not cranked to tight. I've been using the same plug for 3 years. Just take your time inserting it. Should be a 15/16. I use a 3/8 drive 6 point socket with a 1/4 drive adapter on a flex screwdriver. Makes it real easy to get it inserted straight.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Mykie2

Plastic hot water heater plug started leaking so I changed to new plastic plug with plenty of tape. Worked ok for a day then got worse to eventually spraying water. When I began to unscrew the plug the head broke off so now I have a plastic body in the threads. Any good ideas how I get that plastic body out since I can get ahold of it with anything?

Use some of the methods others have suggested. Once you get it out use dope (liquid Teflon sealer), next time on the threads that’s what’s in my RedHawk’s plastics plug and I take it out often to drain the tank never any issues. Be sure you Don’t over tighten and don’t cross thread.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by Cavie

Atwood WH's are Aluminium. No anode rod involved. The plug is nylon. Replace with same. Do not use brass or steal.

Yes, that is true. They do not come with an anode but should. Replace the plastic plug with an anode unless you want to replace the tank.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000701HEQ..._SrioFbTHG12K3

[Thomson]

You got it Cliff! Atwood's are aluminum and require a magnesium anode. Anything else will actually corrode the tank. The reason people don't use anodes in Atwood's is not knowing which one to use.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by Thomson

You got it Cliff! Atwood's are aluminum and require a magnesium anode. Anything else will actually corrode the tank. The reason people don't use anodes in Atwood's is not knowing which one to use.

My complaint is that Attwood should put one in from the factory and tell about it in the manual. I called them and they wouldn't sell me a tank. Thank goodness for Amazon.

[klassic]

My cap twisted off while camping and I tapped the blade of a knife in and twisted it with pliers.

Cliff, about this anode discussion...I read somewhere that an anode stops the rotten egg smell too..?
My Atwood gets the smell occasionally, I wood love it if an anode stops it from happening.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by klassic

My cap twisted off while camping and I tapped the blade of a knife in and twisted it with pliers.



Cliff, about this anode discussion...I read somewhere that an anode stops the rotten egg smell too..?

My Atwood gets the smell occasionally, I wood love it if an anode stops it from happening.

I guess it's possible depending on the minerals in the water in your area. It is a chemical reaction. At any rate, it's worth a few bucks to protect the tank from being eaten. You won't twist one of these off either.

[Robert Steward]

I do not know if you fixed this yet, or if it would help anyone else in the future.
Irwin screw extractor set for spiral screws 5 piece set. It's under $15 worth having in you tool set.

[Thomson]

Regarding the rotten egg smell. the usual source is anaerobic bacteria. The smell is hydrogen sulfide. It comes when there is no oxygen dissolved in the water. Whenever you get that sanitize.

[Eckwinox]

RetiredOne - love the hose idea but how did you manage to get it to fit? Its all we can do to get the plug twisted out, the space between the plug and the gas line is crazy tight (we have the Redhawk 24B) Can you share some more pictures with close-ups?
Also, how difficult is it to remove the hose to be able to spray out the tank?