Heater plug leak

[Mykie2]

Plastic hot water heater plug started leaking so I changed to new plastic plug with plenty of tape. Worked ok for a day then got worse to eventually spraying water. When I began to unscrew the plug the head broke off so now I have a plastic body in the threads. Any good ideas how I get that plastic body out since I can get ahold of it with anything?

[CAG]

An Easy Out should work but you are going to have to be very gentle with the plastic when you back it out.

[Mykie2]

Originally Posted by CAG

An Easy Out should work but you are going to have to be very gentle with the plastic when you back it out.

Only have a plastic shell. Don’t ez out need a hole drilled into the solid ?

[CAG]

Yes, drill in the center of the body and insert the easy out. If I am understanding what you described.


The other option is drill it in multiple locations and break it up. What does not come out can probably be flushed out.

[norty1]

Use a open hack saw blade to cut the plastic thru the hole taking care not to score the threads of the tank. Work a small screw driver under the nylon remains until you can get a needle nose plier on it and twist it out.

[Mykie2]

I have no body. Just the plastic shell

[LuckyDuck]

Could you wrap the ends of small needle-nose pliers with sticky tape on the outside, insert in the hole, expand and try to unthread? If I read you right, you have a nylon “donut” threaded into your WH drain hole?

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Mykie2

I have no body. Just the plastic shell

Work it up with a small screwdriver and grab it with pliers and pull it out.

[Mykie2]

Thanks for all the good responses. A few things to try to Resolve

[Jim Davis]

I know that the angle is awkward but I have been successful with needle nose pliers stuck in the hole, held open and turned .
.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by norty1

Use a open hack saw blade to cut the plastic thru the hole taking care not to score the threads of the tank. Work a small screw driver under the nylon remains until you can get a needle nose plier on it and twist it out.

I was thinking along these lines also.

[JFlightRisk]

If you have a wooden dowel, sharpen the end with a serrated knife, to make "grooves" on the end. Tap it into the broken threads, and turn them out. The wood won't damage the internal threads. Check the threads when it's out, and use a dental pick or something equivalent to clean them of any tape or nylon residue, so the new one seals.

Any of the above methods may work, this is just another thought. Just be careful and work slowly. Those threads are aluminum and can get damaged easily. Good luck.

[SloPoke]

Get the right tool for the job...

https://www.mactools.com/en-us/Extra...-Extractor-Set

[Lake Huron]

Once you get it out do yourself a favor and get a copper close nipple and a short 1/4 turn gas ball valve and install that instead of the junk plastic plug. No more leaks and much easier to drain for winterization if needed.

[Mykie2]

[QUOTE=Lake Huron;881895]Once you get it out do yourself a favor and get a copper close nipple and a short 1/4 turn gas ball valve and install that instead of the junk plastic plug. No more leaks and much easier to drain for winterization if needed
.

Thanks. After I get it out I will definitely do that. 2nd plastic plug that’s sprung a leak on me this year

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by Lake Huron

Once you get it out do yourself a favor and get a copper close nipple and a short 1/4 turn gas ball valve and install that instead of the junk plastic plug. No more leaks and much easier to drain for winterization if needed.

The only thing I would suggest is to make that nipple nylon, instead of copper, so you don't have dissimilar metals (in the aluminum tank). Also, some of us installed a section of water line before the valve, so the draining water doesn't run inside the heater cabinet.

[Bayoutalker]

If yours is like the one in the picture you probably don't have an anode in your tank. I know mine didn't and I had to replace the tank due to corrosion from the inside. I exchanged the plug for an anode to protect the new tank. The threaded part of the anode is metal. Wrap it with Teflon tape and that should cure the problem.

To remove the broken plug I bought a plumber's tool to remove faucet seats at Ace Hdwe. Just tap it gently into the threaded donut and twist it out.

[cfarrar]

Originally Posted by Mykie2

Plastic hot water heater plug started leaking so I changed to new plastic plug with plenty of tape. Worked ok for a day then got worse to eventually spraying water. When I began to unscrew the plug the head broke off so now I have a plastic body in the threads. Any good ideas how I get that plastic body out since I can get ahold of it with anything?

I used a brass plug

[SoulReflection]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

The only thing I would suggest is to make that nipple nylon, instead of copper, so you don't have dissimilar metals (in the aluminum tank). Also, some of us installed a section of water line before the valve, so the draining water doesn't run inside the heater cabinet.

Great points here! Do you have a recommended parts list and do you think an anode plug is a good option?

[alwalk63]

Originally Posted by Jim Davis

I know that the angle is awkward but I have been successful with needle nose pliers stuck in the hole, held open and turned .
.

You stole my thunder. Lol