How hot is too hot?

[ChrisMic]

Hi Fellow Jayco Owners,

We absolutely love our rig and have had it for three years. It just doesn't do well in the heat. We have a 2017 Greyhawk MV29 and the double fridge hates to run when it get's hot. I've searched the forum and don't find anyone else having the issue and we have taken it in and they can't replicate it.

Anyone else have that issue or any issue running the generator while driving so the coach air can be on? Our generator isn't real happy running if we are at freeway speeds.

Starting to think our rig isn't cut out for the heat!

[Stavman]

I live in AZ. I don't use it here in 100+ deg, well, it's just took hit outside

That said, I'll pick up the RV one morning, say it's 85d out, freezer will freeze in a few hrs but will take till late on to get the fridge cold. Usually durring the day it hits 100+ degs

I did move the temp clip on the fans up as high as I could last trip up north, it may help, cuzz the top shelf will freeze

So may try that, but, it's really too hot in AZ to use the RV , in my opinion, go north go north..

[Jagiven]

running the genny when driving is not a problem. Lots of people do it. The coach is way to big for the engine AC to cool.

As for the frig, I assume it is an RV frig and not a residential unit. Many people have added a small 12V computer style fan and a thermal switch inside the rear access panel, to help pull the heat out of the compartment. There are a number of good posts detailing the specifics.

[EA37TS]

Some folks on the Thor and Forest River forums were having issues with the generator shutting down due to excess heat. Thor has begun putting vent louvers in some generator compartment doors. The louvers allow better air circulation around the generator which minimizes the over temp shutdowns.

Here is a link to the discussion on Forest River and they include pics

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ds-114044.html

When we had our class c with a Dometic fridge I found that using a battery operated fan inside the fridge helped keep it cool in hot weather. Again better air circulation around the coils inside the fridge. I used a fan similar to this but it was a lot cheaper. I believe I got mine for under 10.00, but that was about 10 years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-...ag=googhydr-20

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

running the genny when driving is not a problem. Lots of people do it. The coach is way to big for the engine AC to cool.

As for the frig, I assume it is an RV frig and not a residential unit. Many people have added a small 12V computer style fan and a thermal switch inside the rear access panel, to help pull the heat out of the compartment. There are a number of good posts detailing the specifics.

Try one of these off of eBay. They work flawlessly and are awesome. I have used one for years. In the heat of AZ, I only have to run my frige on, max, of # 3 out of the nine temp settings in order to keep it under 40 degrees at all times. During the winter months, I need only run it at 1. Without the fan on, it doesn’t work very well at all, and the internal temps are erratic and vary drastically.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by gprapim

Try one of these off of eBay. They work flawlessly and are awesome. I have used one for years. In the heat of AZ, I only have to run my frige on, max, of # 3 out of the nine temp settings in order to keep it under 40 degrees at all times. During the winter months, I need only run it at 1. Without the fan on, it doesn’t work very well at all, and the internal temps are erratic and vary drastically. Attachment 60347

I have one of these in my frig. I installed mine, as the items in the bottom of my frig would freeze, I no long have that issue. I also found that frig cools down much faster now.

From the OP's description, it sounds like heat in the access panel is the root issue

[wmurphy]

We have a 2019 29MVP and our refer works fine in the summer. We routinely camp in hot weather and other than running constantly, the refer keeps things cold.

I would suggest checking that both cooling fans are running. Maybe one is out? The add on interior fans work well, we are going to add one so I can turn the thermostat down. Also, try to limit how many times you open the doors as it will take awhile to cool the interior back down.

[Stavman]

Originally Posted by gprapim

Try one of these off of eBay. They work flawlessly and are awesome. I have used one for years. In the heat of AZ, I only have to run my frige on, max, of # 3 out of the nine temp settings in order to keep it under 40 degrees at all times. During the winter months, I need only run it at 1. Without the fan on, it doesn’t work very well at all, and the internal temps are erratic and vary drastically. Attachment 60347

That is nice, how is it wired

I may get one myself

[CAG]

Stavman pretty much summed it up and I have mentioned before that my RV Tech told me one time that gas or electric these RV fridges do not work well in Arizona heat or other locations that have that kind of heat.

I turn the fridge on and plug the RV in while getting ready and the freezer will get to well below freezing but the fridge struggles to make it to 50F. It usually has a couple of days to cool down, but it will not. If our night time temps are still in the 60-70 range the fridge will get to mid 30s by morning. That is when we pack the fridge and get out of town. I had a "control" on the thermister, a fan running over the workings in the outside fridge cabinet and a set of those fans inside the fridge itself. If I was lucky it might drop the temps 2-3 degrees.

So, to the question. Nothing will help the RV fridge when it is 90-110 outside.

There are numerous threads on this topic and another running as we type.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tml#post866940

[Stavman]

I just ordered a battery fan for inside the fridge

This should help some

I'm gunna check my venting next time I have it at home. It has a big vent below the fridge, Entegra 25r, and can't say I feel heat anywhere from the fridge inside

I do get frost on the vents a lot so bet some circulation will help it cool and stay cooler

Fun fun fun

[ChrisMic]

Thanks guys - I realized I didn't mention the error code I get its an L1 OP. I did end up searching and found a lot of information now. Looks like I need to install an additional cooling fan.

Regarding the generator, it simply shuts off at highway speeds.

[wmurphy]

One of the easiest to install is a fan that is solar powered and replaces the existing vent cover on the roof. Etrailer has them.

[ChrisMic]

Found this in my search - just unsure where he means to install the additional fan.

"When driving, air currents over and around the RV can slow or even reverse the normal air flow through the fridge cooling units external vents. The 1200 exhausts a LOT of heat, so it doesn't take much reduction to cause problems. This is especially true for a fridge mounted in a slide, where the upper vent is in a sidewall instead of the roof. I would add yet another cooling fan (the 1200 comes with two), one that operates all the time, or at least always when driving."

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by Stavman

That is nice, how is it wired

I may get one myself

I wired mine into the LED light inside the frige. The light is constantly on (that is the way it is from the factory), so the positive wire is always hot. The fan has a switch mounted on it so one can turn it on and off. The unit is grounded from the coils on the frige that you mount it to with the clips that are attached to the hanging cables. Therefore, you don’t have to worry about grounding it with the ground wire. If your frige is older and does not have the LED light in it, the wires can be run out to the back of the frige by passing it through the drain tube and connecting it to a ground and hot wire out there. I know you will really like the fan unit and most likely will wonder why you didn’t do this from the get-go.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by Stavman

That is nice, how is it wired

I may get one myself

It depends a little bit on your frig. Some frigs you can tie into the door light switch. I could not. I ran a light gauge wire (thermastat wire if I recall correctly) through the condensate drain tube. Added a Scotchlok crimp connector and tied it into the 12V power feed at the control board.