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Old 07-26-2020, 06:24 AM   #1
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Installing Maxair Fan on 2020 Redhawk 24B

I did a couple forum searches on this, but found nothing. I bought a Maxair 6200K fan with integrated rain shield to replace the 14 x 14" vent over the bed for better air flow. Three questions on installation:

1. What type of sealant [brand, etc.] is recommended to make the water tight connection on the roof? It looks critical to do this right. The Maxair instructions are vague on that and default to Jayco for a real answer. Thought I'd pose the question here before I call Jayco.

2. Are there any 12v connection wires up there to tap into given it's just a vent now and not a fan I'm replacing?

3. Any other issues I should be aware of before diving in?
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Old 07-26-2020, 07:27 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by alazear View Post
I did a couple forum searches on this, but found nothing. I bought a Maxair 6200K fan with integrated rain shield to replace the 14 x 14" vent over the bed for better air flow. Three questions on installation:

1. What type of sealant [brand, etc.] is recommended to make the water tight connection on the roof? It looks critical to do this right. The Maxair instructions are vague on that and default to Jayco for a real answer. Thought I'd pose the question here before I call Jayco.

2. Are there any 12v connection wires up there to tap into given it's just a vent now and not a fan I'm replacing?

3. Any other issues I should be aware of before diving in?
I just did this on a TT a few days ago but MH installation would be identical. Only difference is I didn't replace an existing vent, mine was a brand new install that required me to cut through the ceiling, roof and roof membrane to utilize an un-used but already framed in 14 X 14 roof vent location....... so a little more work. To replace an existing vent is much easier but would requre you to remove the existing sealant and vent flange, no a beal deal just take your time removing the old sealant so as to not damage the rubber roof material.

I bought a vent install kit at a rv parts place, used the tape provided in the kit to apply to the underside of the flange to attach the flange to the roof, installed screws and Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant around the perimeter of the flange and to cover the screw holes. I can't answer your electrical question but I was able to tap into a wire harness that ran to the nearest light fixture, if you choose to do the same, need to ensure that it's on a 15 amp circuit and in my case that the light isn't controlled by a wall mounted light switch.

All in all a pretty easy straight forward job. Sorry don't have any pics of the rooftop install....I was just happy to get off the roof!!!!!!
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vent3.jpg   fan3.jpg   fan1.jpg   fan2.jpg  
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Old 07-26-2020, 07:55 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by alazear View Post
I did a couple forum searches on this, but found nothing. I bought a Maxair 6200K fan with integrated rain shield to replace the 14 x 14" vent over the bed for better air flow. Three questions on installation:

1. What type of sealant [brand, etc.] is recommended to make the water tight connection on the roof? It looks critical to do this right. The Maxair instructions are vague on that and default to Jayco for a real answer. Thought I'd pose the question here before I call Jayco.

2. Are there any 12v connection wires up there to tap into given it's just a vent now and not a fan I'm replacing?

3. Any other issues I should be aware of before diving in?
I just did this on my 5'er. Once you remove the old vent and clean up the old sealant, you'll need to apply butyl tape around the opening before placing new frame down with new screws. Then dicor lap sealant over all screws and overlapping the new frame. I used one tube of dicor self-leveling. The problem you may have is if there's no existing power, you'll have to run wires to the new vent.
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Old 07-26-2020, 08:21 AM   #4
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I need to do a bit more shopping at the RV store before I get into this. Thanks for the tips guys. Butyl tape and Dicor lap sealant on the list.
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Old 07-26-2020, 08:27 AM   #5
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I need to do a bit more shopping at the RV store before I get into this. Thanks for the tips guys. Butyl tape and Dicor lap sealant on the list.
A plastic putty knife will help getting the old sealant off. I didn't need to use mineral spirits but had it just in case it got messy. Definitely use sparingly if you use mineral spirits on the roof.
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Old 07-26-2020, 08:42 AM   #6
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2. Are there any 12v connection wires up there to tap into given it's just a vent now and not a fan I'm replacing?
I just took a look at the 12v diagrams I have. I don't see any 12v pigtail in that area of the vent in the ceiling. You're probably going to have to tap off the 12v at the light switch in the bedroom.
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Old 07-26-2020, 01:59 PM   #7
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I just took a look at the 12v diagrams I have. I don't see any 12v pigtail in that area of the vent in the ceiling. You're probably going to have to tap off the 12v at the light switch in the bedroom.
I was gonna say, if you don't already have 12v wiring at the vent, it could be challenging to tap into another.
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Old 07-26-2020, 02:30 PM   #8
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I put in a powered vent in our bedroom. There were no 12 volt feeds but there was terminated wiring for adding an air conditioner. Probably not the best way to do it, but I pulled the power distribution panel out, found the feed to the bedroom AC and moved it to an available 12 volt fuse. If installing an AC in the future, it would just have to be moved back to the breaker. Only go this route if you know what you're doing and electrical safety.
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:21 AM   #9
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Maxair Fan Job done. Works quite well. 10 speeds, quiet on low settings, can force air both directions, can use in the rain, thus good for leaving the dog while gone. I'd do this install again.

Inside: I ended up grabbing power from the stock bathroom fan about 2-3' away. That stock bathroom fan is one cheap piece of junk with the worst plastic known to man [I may replace it down the road too with a second Maxfan?], but it did have wall switched power available to use, which was fine. I found other possible power sources nearer, but they went to bedroom switched lights, which seemed more problematic, so I chose the switched bathroom fan instead. The crux of the job was "fish taping" through the solid foam insulation to grab that power between the ceiling panels. Needed a bit of force to shove the fish tape over there, but it worked. I ended up going to a bathroom light first and then secondly to the bathroom fan to get there with the fish tape. It worked fine pulling wire after that.

Outside: The roof replacement went smoothly overall. The roof rubber material is very thin and can be damaged very very easily. Use a lot of care taking the old calking and butyl tape off if you decide to work up there pepping for the new butyl tape and caulking.

After seeing how thin and fragile this rubber roof material is, I'm going to be vigilant on checking for possible leaks and having some extra caulk handy to use across the whole roof at possible leak points going forward.
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:32 AM   #10
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Also, evidently the calking can take up to 2 weeks to fully cure and harden. It's still spongy right now, which seemed weird, so I called the manufacturer and asked. Interestingly, they have no cure-set time listed on the cauking tube, maybe because it takes 2 weeks... It's the Dicore Self Leveling Lap Seal that is recommended to use.
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:32 AM   #11
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Maxair Fan Job done. Works quite well. 10 speeds, quiet on low settings, can force air both directions, can use in the rain, thus good for leaving the dog while gone. I'd do this install again.

Inside: I ended up grabbing power from the stock bathroom fan about 2-3' away. That stock bathroom fan is one cheap piece of junk with the worst plastic known to man [I may replace it down the road too with a second Maxfan?], but it did have wall switched power available to use, which was fine. I found other possible power sources nearer, but they went to bedroom switched lights, which seemed more problematic, so I chose the switched bathroom fan instead. The crux of the job was "fish taping" through the solid foam insulation to grab that power between the ceiling panels. Needed a bit of force to shove the fish tape over there, but it worked. I ended up going to a bathroom light first and then secondly to the bathroom fan to get there with the fish tape. It worked fine pulling wire after that.

Outside: The roof replacement went smoothly overall. The roof rubber material is very thin and can be damaged very very easily. Use a lot of care taking the old calking and butyl tape off if you decide to work up there pepping for the new butyl tape and caulking.

After seeing how thin and fragile this rubber roof material is, I'm going to be vigilant on checking for possible leaks and having some extra caulk handy to use across the whole roof at possible leak points going forward.
Great job! That fan is awesome. I won't be without one now. Yep, I try to keep some eternabond tape and dicor on hand just in case.
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:03 AM   #12
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Glad to hear it works out OK. Another job, well done.

Also, I didn't think of using the bath fan switch, I originally thought the light switch was the closest. But, the bathroom fan switch was a great idea, since you can leave it turned on to power the new fan, and just turn off the toggle switch mounted on the bath fan when not needed.
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:42 AM   #13
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After seeing how thin and fragile this rubber roof material is, I'm going to be vigilant on checking for possible leaks and having some extra caulk handy to use across the whole roof at possible leak points going forward.
I keep a roll of Eternabond tape on hand in case I ever need to make a quick roof repair. I used it for a worn out spot on the rubber roof of my previous trailer and it held up great.
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Old 07-30-2020, 11:22 AM   #14
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But, the bathroom fan switch was a great idea, since you can leave it turned on to power the new fan, and just turn off the toggle switch mounted on the bath fan when not needed.
Thanks. This is why I went with the bathroom fan tap in. Then, each fan has its own off/on switch, and both fans now receive power from the bathroom fan wall switch. But I can use each fan independently of anything else.

Even though the light circuit was much more convenient to access the wires [those wires are right there when you open the cover to the old bedroom vent I removed], using that circuit would have created more problems to solve.

Hopefully it'll work well on our next trip?
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Old 07-30-2020, 11:24 AM   #15
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I keep a roll of Eternabond tape on hand in case I ever need to make a quick roof repair. I used it for a worn out spot on the rubber roof of my previous trailer and it held up great.
I'll have to check this stuff out. I'm not familiar.
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