Jayco 24B

[UDFlyer]

Just came back from first trip in 2020 motorhome. Put 4500 miles on it and was wondering if anyone has done any mods for steering, suspension or wind noise. The microwave also rattles continually. Any suggestions? I was thinking about a front steering damper, but was wondering if anyone upgraded their rear shocks to help smooth the ride?

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by UDFlyer

Just came back from first trip in 2020 motorhome. Put 4500 miles on it and was wondering if anyone has done any mods for steering, suspension or wind noise. The microwave also rattles continually. Any suggestions? I was thinking about a front steering damper, but was wondering if anyone upgraded their rear shocks to help smooth the ride?

If you're willing to spend the money buy KONI shocks. They make a world of difference. Have you had an alignment done? Take it to Dsuban off of 747.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by UDFlyer

Just came back from first trip in 2020 motorhome. Put 4500 miles on it and was wondering if anyone has done any mods for steering, suspension or wind noise. The microwave also rattles continually. Any suggestions? I was thinking about a front steering damper, but was wondering if anyone upgraded their rear shocks to help smooth the ride?

I have first hand experience with the handling issues. As they come from the dealer, they are a handful.

What will help, BIG time, is to replace the front and rear OEM sway bars with Hellwig sway bars. Then, replace the OEM steering damper with a Roadmaster Reflex steering stabilizer. I've done all of that, and the difference was amazing.

Regarding smoothing the ride, have you checked air pressures? I run at, or a few pounds under the door sticker, and the ride is fine.

Regarding the micro rattle, did you check to see if the glass tray is in it's slots, and the metal rack is standing up correctly?

Wind noise... well, it's lack of insulation... maybe turn the radio up....

[JFlightRisk]

snipped....[QUOTE=UDFlyer;873895 The microwave also rattles continually. Any suggestions?[/QUOTE]

A member here posted a solution. He cut a pool noodle to fit snuggly between he inside top of the micro, and the glass plate. I thought it was a brilliant idea.

[drmike961]

I just lift up the microwave glass plate and lay the dish towel under it. When I arrive I quickly pull it out and hang it on the stove towel bar.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I just lift up the microwave glass plate and lay the dish towel under it. When I arrive I quickly pull it out and hang it on the stove towel bar.

You always come up with such elaborate solutions....

[SoulReflection]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I just lift up the microwave glass plate and lay the dish towel under it. When I arrive I quickly pull it out and hang it on the stove towel bar.

Me too

[Harvard]

Some E350/E450 have handling issues, some do not, the following may explain the difference:

Ford ships all E350/E450 cut aways with identical fixed, non adjustable
caster/camber sleeves, "one size fits all". You can recognize these sleeves because they are keyed and cannot be rotated. They are marked "F8UA-AA 0+.25" on the passenger side and "E97A-CA +0-0" on the drivers side.

The RV builder almost never changes the Ford sleeves, as a result:

If the final RV build is nose down one degree then the runtime caster will be about +3.5 degrees. These units can have a real wandering problem.

If the final RV build is nose level then the runtime caster will be about +4.5 degrees. These units are probably indifferent.

If the final RV build is nose up one degree then the runtime caster will be about +5.5 degrees. These unit are probably just fine.

So, some RVs have a problem with wandering at highway speeds and some do not have a problem.

Note that all three zones mentioned above are within the broad Ford caster specification.
As a result it is easy to get short changed by the "tweak the toe and we are good to go" alignment. Discuss your symptoms up front, do not expect a normal alignment will address your handling problem.

POPULAR MECHANICS MAY 1973:
START QUOTE:
If too little caster exists, the car will wander and weave,
thus necessitating constant corrections in steering.
END QUOTE:

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

You always come up with such elaborate solutions....

I am definitely a simple man. You should see my elaborate rv porch decor when my wife doesn't come with me. A beer and just 2 chairs, one for me and one for the dog.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by Harvard

Some E350/E450 have handling issues, some do not, the following may explain the difference:

Ford ships all E350/E450 cut aways with identical fixed, non adjustable
caster/camber sleeves, "one size fits all". You can recognize these sleeves because they are keyed and cannot be rotated. They are marked "F8UA-AA 0+.25" on the passenger side and "E97A-CA +0-0" on the drivers side.

The RV builder almost never changes the Ford sleeves, as a result:

If the final RV build is nose down one degree then the runtime caster will be about +3.5 degrees. These units can have a real wandering problem.

If the final RV build is nose level then the runtime caster will be about +4.5 degrees. These units are probably indifferent.

If the final RV build is nose up one degree then the runtime caster will be about +5.5 degrees. These unit are probably just fine.

So, some RVs have a problem with wandering at highway speeds and some do not have a problem.

Note that all three zones mentioned above are within the broad Ford caster specification.
As a result it is easy to get short changed by the "tweak the toe and we are good to go" alignment. Discuss your symptoms up front, do not expect a normal alignment will address your handling problem.

POPULAR MECHANICS MAY 1973:
START QUOTE:
If too little caster exists, the car will wander and weave,
thus necessitating constant corrections in steering.
END QUOTE:

I measured and ran the caster calculation that you gave me a while back and it was around 3.8. I was under the impression that a shorter rig would be easier to drive, but according to the formula it is more likely that a short rig with less rear weight will be more nose down and thus have less caster. Am I missing something or is this generically correct?

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I am definitely a simple man. You should see my elaborate rv porch decor when my wife doesn't come with me. A beer and just 2 chairs, one for me and one for the dog.

I sure hope you're sharing that beer with the poochie. After all, they ARE man's best friend!

[SoulReflection]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I measured and ran the caster calculation that you gave me a while back and it was around 3.8. I was under the impression that a shorter rig would be easier to drive, but according to the formula it is more likely that a short rig with less rear weight will be more nose down and thus have less caster. Am I missing something or is this generically correct?

Well, I am a layman when it comes to camber/caster, etc. All I know is that when I picked up my new 22J and attempted to drive it home, 100 miles on freeways, it was pulling hard to the right. I had to stop several times to give my arms a rest.

I took it to a local shop and the alignment was away off. It took parts and labor that the dealer (thru Jayco) agreed to reimburse. That and a house battery that was low in fluid and had at least one dead cell, was reimbursed by the dealer (thru Jayco).

Some dealers are nothing but brokers. Mine apparently did not care about the alignment and admitted they did not have the capabilities (and, obviously) the desire, to check...leaving up to the customer to find out the hard way. The customer then has to go through the expense and hassle to correct this (and replace the battery).

After paying over $60K for a "new" motor home, the customer has to go through this "crap" to finally get what they paid for.

I have learned a valuable lesson although, at my age, I doubt if I will go through this again. The lesson is, buying a new motor home costs 15-25% more. You still have to go through the process of working out the deficiencies which will cost you time and expense. Your time will not be reimbursed. Your expenses, might.

There is a difference between purchasing a motor home vs. purchasing a trailer. A motor home has two, distinctly different vendors. The chassis vendor (Ford, GM, etc.) and the house vendor (Jayco,etc.).

A trailer is a separate entity. Because of that, there is a clear separation between product warranties.

Motor homes, as I have discovered, have two warranties. That of the chassis manufacture and that of the house manufacturer. Although the house manufacturer (Jayco) buys the chassis from Ford or GM, the customer has little or no control over, or information of what Jayco has bought. They package it as a single unit. They do not necessarily disclose what chassis configurations or options they have included in "their" product.

You can't go to Ford or GM and get a "configuration" for a particular motor home...they will refer you back to the house manufacturer.

So, one must really look at the fine print. Unfortunately, that does not necessarily provide the information you want.

All I am trying to say is, if you buy any motor home (new or used), do not plan on picking it up and driving it on a vacation. Take the time to check it out.

Test everything and make sure all systems are "Go". There is nothing worse than setting off on a vacation and finding you are in a place you do not want to be (hell).

[Harvard]

Originally Posted by drmike961

I measured and ran the caster calculation that you gave me a while back and it was around 3.8. I was under the impression that a shorter rig would be easier to drive, but according to the formula it is more likely that a short rig with less rear weight will be more nose down and thus have less caster. Am I missing something or is this generically correct?

I think your assessment is correct. A two inch higher rear end is going to take away more caster on a shorter wheel base then the same rear height change on a longer wheel base.

[Atlee]

A friend of mine has said he would never get a motor home for the reasons you just mentioned, plus if you get a larger motor home, you will need a toad, and then you're dealing with 2 drive trains.

Originally Posted by SoulReflection

Well, I am a layman when it comes to camber/caster, etc. All I know is that when I picked up my new 22J and attempted to drive it home, 100 miles on freeways, it was pulling hard to the right. I had to stop several times to give my arms a rest.

I took it to a local shop and the alignment was away off. It took parts and labor that the dealer (thru Jayco) agreed to reimburse. That and a house battery that was low in fluid and had at least one dead cell, was reimbursed by the dealer (thru Jayco).

Some dealers are nothing but brokers. Mine apparently did not care about the alignment and admitted they did not have the capabilities (and, obviously) the desire, to check...leaving up to the customer to find out the hard way. The customer then has to go through the expense and hassle to correct this (and replace the battery).

After paying over $60K for a "new" motor home, the customer has to go through this "crap" to finally get what they paid for.

I have learned a valuable lesson although, at my age, I doubt if I will go through this again. The lesson is, buying a new motor home costs 15-25% more. You still have to go through the process of working out the deficiencies which will cost you time and expense. Your time will not be reimbursed. Your expenses, might.

There is a difference between purchasing a motor home vs. purchasing a trailer. A motor home has two, distinctly different vendors. The chassis vendor (Ford, GM, etc.) and the house vendor (Jayco,etc.).

A trailer is a separate entity. Because of that, there is a clear separation between product warranties.

Motor homes, as I have discovered, have two warranties. That of the chassis manufacture and that of the house manufacturer. Although the house manufacturer (Jayco) buys the chassis from Ford or GM, the customer has little or no control over, or information of what Jayco has bought. They package it as a single unit. They do not necessarily disclose what chassis configurations or options they have included in "their" product.

You can't go to Ford or GM and get a "configuration" for a particular motor home...they will refer you back to the house manufacturer.

So, one must really look at the fine print. Unfortunately, that does not necessarily provide the information you want.

All I am trying to say is, if you buy any motor home (new or used), do not plan on picking it up and driving it on a vacation. Take the time to check it out.

Test everything and make sure all systems are "Go". There is nothing worse than setting off on a vacation and finding you are in a place you do not want to be (hell).