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Old 06-04-2019, 04:09 PM   #1
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Jayco Greyhawk Camera Controller / Switcher

I installed a new head unit (stereo) in my Jayco Greyhawk 29MV and was a bit confused about how the back up and left/right directional cameras worked with the head unit. I did some research and found Jayco installed a ASAelectronics Voyager CSW3014 camera controller under the lower dash trim panel in the drivers seat area. I searched high and low for documentation on the CSW3014 but all I found was that it was a replacement for the CSW3007. I was able to confirm the CSW3007 document I found applies to the CSW3014 as well so here it is... Hopefully this will save someone all the time I spent searching for this info.

By the way, if you don't know how these controllers work here's a quick primer:
1) The rear (backup), left (directional), & right (directional) cameras all are wired to the camera inputs on the controller.
2) There are three trigger input wires on the controller that connect to the left directional, right directional, and backup lights of the vehicle.
3) There is a single video output RCA on the controller that goes to the head unit camera in.
4) There is a single trigger output wire on the controller that goes to the head unit camera trigger input.
5) There is a 12V DC power and ground wire on the controller.

On my 2019 Jayco Greyhawk 29MV CA1 is the rear camera, CA2 is the left camera, and CA3 is the right camera.
Attached Thumbnails
CSW3014 Camera Controller.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf CSW3014 Camera Control Doc.pdf (194.6 KB, 23 views)
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:59 AM   #2
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Thanks for the information. Can you share what unit you replaced the Soundstream with and why you picked it?
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:55 PM   #3
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Thanks for the information. Can you share what unit you replaced the Soundstream with and why you picked it?
I installed a Kenwood DDX9704S with Apple CarPlay & Android Auto (no built in navigation though - that is done through CarPlay or Android Auto). I chose this unit because I installed the same one in my '97 4-Runner about a year ago and am very pleased with it. I also looked at the DDX9703S back then but found the display was much improved on the DDX9704S and worth the extra cost. Kenwood just released the newest model which is the DDX9705S. Not sure what all the differences are with the DDX9705S but it appears they added "Wireless Android Auto" capability. I have an iPhone and use CarPlay so this would not benefit me in any way. I also added a subwoofer and subwoofer amp to shore up the bass frequencies (more on this later). The key features I like about the Kenwood DDX9704S (and dislike about the Soundstream) are:

1) Excellent display (clarity, touch responsiveness, adjustability). Regarding adjustability, this was super important in the 4-Runner as the unit sits very low in the dash. The DDX970xS series head units have a mechanically positioned (motorized) display so it can be angled upward when mounted low in the dash. This is not used in the Greyhawk as it sits much higher in the dash. However, in the Greyhawk it is quite a distance to the drivers right so the viewing angle left to right is quite severe while driving. This was one of the biggest problems with the Soundstream unit. The Kenwood is much easier to see from the drivers seat. The touch responsiveness on the Kenwood is also far superior to the Soundstream.

2) CarPlay and navigation. For a couple of years now I've found navigation on my iPhone to be superior in many ways to dedicated GPS navigation devices. And with CarPlay it's even better (much more tightly integrated into the overall stereo experience while driving). And with the last two major releases of iOS on the iPhone you can use maps other than Apple with CarPlay. Regarding maps, I find Apple Maps works for most locations and is most tightly integrated with the iPhone and CarPlay (for obvious reasons). My "go-to" map for everything else is Google Maps. I used to use Waze but found the more recent versions to be so buggy they've become unusable for me. I've not used Waze now for about 6 months so maybe it has improved again but I still find Google Maps to be the best of the three and Apple Maps a suitable alternative for most simple navigation. There's another cool feature with the iPhone/CarPlay integration, while navigating to somewhere you can see the map display in CarPlay on the Kenwood and the turn-by-turn directions on the iPhone so you can see what turns are coming up. Lastly, when I'm in the middle of nowhere and don't have cellular service (required for the most part for any of the aforementioned maps), I have an app on my phone called CoPilot that has internally stored maps. I also carry an old Garmin unit as a final backup. I do have to remember to manually update the maps on the Garmin once or twice a year and on CoPilot every 1-3 months though. This is especially important with CoPilot as the app won't work with outdated maps and they are very large so you definitely want to update them on WiFi and not cellular.

3) CarPlay and audio control. I listen mostly to Pandora, Spotify, and Radio Time while traveling and the integration between CarPlay and the iPhone is pretty good. For instance, with Pandora there are far less options than with Spotify so I typically control it 100% through CarPlay. With Spotify and TuneIn Radio, there are extensive search options that are better left to the iPhone interface so while the iPhone is connected to the Kenwood and CarPlay is active, I can pop into the Spotify app on my iPhone to search for an artist, album, song, etc and start it playing. I can then pause and skip songs from CarPlay while driving. Lastly, the audio/navigation integration is very nice. When the navigation side is speaking it attenuates the sound (lowers the volume) in just the front speakers so you can hear the navigation directions without completely muting the music. As soon as the spoken navigation directions are completed, the volume in the front speakers raises back to the previous level. Very nice.

4) Dedicated hardware controls. On the Kenwood, there are dedicated hardware buttons (that click when pushed) along the bottom of the unit for volume up/down, camera, home, and CarPlay. This is far superior to the non-tactile buttons on the left side of the Soundstream. And regarding the camera, I love the fact that I can just hit the camera (CAM) button on the Kenwood at any time to see what I'm towing and then hit it again to go back to the previous display. It seemed I was always searching for the camera control on the Soundstream. The physical volume control on the Kenwood is also far superior to the Soundstream. It always seemed the Soundstream volume control was very slow to respond where the Kenwood is "right now" when pressed. Even turning the Kenwood on or [completely] off is way easier than on the Soundstream (important because the head unit is always powered as long as the main coach battery disconnect is on). On the Kenwood you just press and hold the Home button for 1 second to completely turn the unit off. On the Soundstream the only way I could ever get that to work reliably was to press and hold the red power button on the remote.

5) Sound quality. Kenwood is known among car audio enthusiasts for providing excellent audio quality and control. This unit is no exception. Most people will either not use most of these controls or set it up to their liking in the beginning and then not use them much afterward. I'm in the latter camp. I put a great amount of effort into fine tuning the audio quality in the beginning and then generally don't touch the audio controls anymore after that. Another point worth mentioning here is that the DDX9704S saves all settings even if power is completely removed from the head unit. A lesson I learned with the last head units I install in various vehicles. Very frustrating spending days tuning the sound to my liking and then losing all the settings after the battery is disconnected.

6) The Kenwood audio does not turn on like the Soundstream when you use the directionals or reverse (assuming the audio was off to begin with). This always annoyed me with the Soundstream.

7) Regarding the remote, this is where the Soundstream is actually a bit better. First, the Soundstream comes with a remote. With the Kenwood you have to purchase it separately. I purchased two remotes (for the Greyhawk and 4-Runner) for about $10/ea from eBay that appeared to be original Kenwood but are apparently cheap knockoffs from China. They work but quality is suspect. All I really use the remote for is volume and pause/skip functions while at the dinette or listening outside. For anything else I just go directly to the Kenwood head unit or iPhone for control. An actual Kenwood remote can be purchased from a reputable source (like Crutchfield) for about $29. If the cheapo ones I bought break I'll order real ones then.

8) Something I never thought I'd use was the speech to text function. In CarPlay it's dead simple to use. When you get an incoming text message Siri offers to read it for you and then offers to respond. Couldn't be simpler. I find I use it a lot because it seems everybody I know under the age of 50 prefers texting to phone calls.

I mentioned in the beginning that I also added a subwoofer and subwoofer amp. This could have been done with the Soundstream as well so this isn't necessarily an improvement with the Kenwood over the Soundstream. However, the Kenwood provides significant control over the low and high frequency crossover points and curves so fine tuning a system after adding a subwoofer is much better with the Kenwood. Regarding which subwoofer and amp I added, I purchased the JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 8" ported MicroSub and the Alpine S-A60M amp (330W RMS into 4 ohms with <1% THD). The amp is installed under the drivers seat and is powered directly from the chassis battery via 16.5' of high quality 4GA all copper wire. Probably could have gotten away with 8GA wire here but wanted to future proof myself. If you decide to do this be aware that there are amp hookup kits out there that use wire other than all copper (aluminum or aluminum/copper blends I believe). Not that there's anything inherently wrong with aluminum wire but it requires a heavier gage to carry the same current as copper and space is at a premium when running this big of wire under the drivers step panel, kick panel, and through the firewall to the chassis battery. The audio side of the amp is connected via 12' of high quality twisted pair audio cable (with RCA ends). I placed the sub directly behind and to the left of the driver's seat. It sounds best when sitting upright on its end opposite the speaker connections and port and facing forward (firing directly into the wood wall just to the left of the back of the drivers seat). To summarize, port facing up, speaker pointed forward. This sub enclosure is also very shallow front to back (6-5/8") so it fits neatly between the wall and slide out on my 2019 Greyhawk 29MV (which has about 7-1/2" of clearance). This space was not used for anything else and provides for excellent bass response with the slide in or out. It is especially sweet in the drivers seat with the slide in while driving (quite important since I do most of the driving).

The last two hurdles I had to get over were the USB and aux audio inputs.

For USB the Soundstream has one USB input but the Kenwood has two. I found a decent quality dual USB 3.0 adapter that fit in the dash panel where the single USB adapter from Jayco was installed. It works well with my iPhone 7, CarPlay, and charging. I found it on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the aux input from the TV up in the bunk area, the Soundstream aux input is RCA left and right. The Kenwood is 1/8" stereo input so I ordered an adapter from Amazon that worked well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One last bit of advice, the dashboard is a major PIA to remove (almost impossible to get it over the shift lever) so if you plan to make any other modifications behind the dash try to do it all at once. I learned this the hard way. I also needed to add an electronic brake controller to the motorhome and assumed the factory wiring would be under the dash by your left knee while seated in the drivers seat (where it is in most any other modern truck). WRONG! In my unit the factory wiring is behind the coin tray at the top almost center of the dash just above the head unit. Had to pop the dash apart again to install the Tekonsha adapter (still waiting on that part so the dash sits there partially opened until later this week. Hopefully I'll be able to snake the cable down to the gap between the lower driver side dash panel and the engine cowling without completely removing the main dash panel again. I saw a picture somewhere on the Interwebs showing a Ford factory brake controller in the dash where the coin pocket is but I didn't do any further research as I already have and love the Tekonsha P3 controller that I use in multiple vehicles.

Sorry for the super long winded response but as you can see, I put a significant amount of effort into sorting all this out and making it look like a factory install. I tend to keep my toys for a significant number of years (19 years for the first motorhome, 23 years and counting for the speedboat, 22 years and counting for the 4-Runner) and I don't like doing these projects more than once. Ok, in the interest of full disclosure , I'm on stereo #2 in the boat and #3 in the 4-Runner. Who would have known CDs would replace cassettes and then digital media would replace CDs! And that Smartphones would become the center of our entertainment universe!
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:17 AM   #4
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I have both Kenwood remotes- the $29 one and a discontinued smaller one. They both arenít as functional as the Soundstream, but it doesnít bug me. They both do volume & inputs. The old one will both mute the system and turn it off. However, neither of them will turn the head unit on or off.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:02 PM   #5
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Hi RFSTeach, are you able connect inside and outside speaker of the coachto kenwood unit? Thanks
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Old 07-18-2019, 04:21 PM   #6
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I know you asked him specifically, but I have also have a Kenwood and yes, mine is still controlled by the switch by the door. Inside position is the door & overhead speakers, outside is the overhead speakers and the outside speakers.
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:32 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the info
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Old 10-05-2019, 12:43 PM   #8
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Hi RFSTeach, are you able connect inside and outside speaker of the coachto kenwood unit? Thanks
Sorry gngheim, Never saw your reply. But as eeek stated, no change to the Jayco inside/outside speaker control. Worked with the SoundStream and still works with the Kenwood. All that switch does is choose between the front door speakers and the outside speakers. The ceiling speakers work regardless of the switch position.
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:56 AM   #9
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RFSTech

I ordered the radio today and it's suppose to be Wednesday. Any tips on wiring it?
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:10 PM   #10
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Amstier, If you donít mind, could you tell me where you ordered the radio and what it cost? Thanks. Please post any info about your project. Photos would be great. I would really appreciate it. Thanks also to RFSTech who started this thread. I rented a car with Apple CarPlay and now I want it in my MH!
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:40 PM   #11
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RFSTech

I ordered the radio today and it's suppose to be Wednesday. Any tips on wiring it?
As I recall (memory isn't what it used to be) I just cut the 2 harnesses (one is the standard Ford harness and the other is specific to Jayco I believe) off the SoundStream and connected it to the new Kenwood head unit cable harness. The color code for the SoundStream wiring is on a sticker on the unit itself. Most of the names for each wire are the same or close enough to figure out. Remember, as far as the cameras go, you are really dealing with the camera/video switcher for the video input to the Kenwood head unit. In other words, the head unit only has one camera/video input but which camera (right, left, or rear) displays in the head unit is determined by the camera/video switcher, not the head unit. Also, the backup light trigger for the head unit wires to the camera/video switcher instead of the actual reverse light circuit. This is so the video in the head unit is "triggered" on whenever the camera/video switcher senses any of the three circuits (right directional, left directional, or reverse lights) having voltage. The camera/video switcher also has a slight delay built in so when the directional or reverse lights turn off, the video will display for a couple seconds more before switching back to whatever was previously on the head unit display. This also all works flawlessly with the "CAM" button on the Kenwood head unit that allows you to quickly force the rear camera to display all the time for when you're towing (or if you just like to see where you've been at all times) Let me know if you get stuck and I'll see if I can help.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:07 PM   #12
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Amstier, If you donít mind, could you tell me where you ordered the radio and what it cost? Thanks. Please post any info about your project. Photos would be great. I would really appreciate it. Thanks also to RFSTech who started this thread. I rented a car with Apple CarPlay and now I want it in my MH!
I know you asked Amstier but here's my 2 cents... The models of these units change rapidly. The DDX9704S (my model) was replaced by the DDX9705S I believe. And there might even be a DDX9706S out or on the horizon. You can get the DDX9705S on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...g=gosale01-20& It's currently $400 which is about what I paid for the DDX9704S.

I think the key difference with the newer models might be the ability to use CarPlay with a wireless bluetooth connection instead of plugging your phone into the head unit. I wish I had this feature in my car (I have the DDX9704S in one of my cars as well) because I'm in and out a lot running errands and such. Not that big of a deal in the motorhome as I typically don't get in and out a lot while driving from point A to B (except for those pesky gas stops).
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Old 10-16-2019, 04:07 PM   #13
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Amstier, If you donít mind, could you tell me where you ordered the radio and what it cost? Thanks. Please post any info about your project. Photos would be great. I would really appreciate it. Thanks also to RFSTech who started this thread. I rented a car with Apple CarPlay and now I want it in my MH!
I order from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was 399.99 and sold by https://www.sonicelectronix.com but on there web page it was 419.99

I just finished putting in it, what a difference in a good way. From the Camera, screen clarity, easy of use, etc......

I have appleplay in all of my other cars and trucks, and I just could life without it.

I just followed the wire code on the soundstream when wiring up the Kenwood. You need to take the braket that mounts the soundstream to the truck bottom and put it on the Kenwood.

It was easier than putting in my eight track player was in the 70's
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Old 10-16-2019, 04:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by RFSTech View Post
As I recall (memory isn't what it used to be) I just cut the 2 harnesses (one is the standard Ford harness and the other is specific to Jayco I believe) off the SoundStream and connected it to the new Kenwood head unit cable harness. The color code for the SoundStream wiring is on a sticker on the unit itself. Most of the names for each wire are the same or close enough to figure out. Remember, as far as the cameras go, you are really dealing with the camera/video switcher for the video input to the Kenwood head unit. In other words, the head unit only has one camera/video input but which camera (right, left, or rear) displays in the head unit is determined by the camera/video switcher, not the head unit. Also, the backup light trigger for the head unit wires to the camera/video switcher instead of the actual reverse light circuit. This is so the video in the head unit is "triggered" on whenever the camera/video switcher senses any of the three circuits (right directional, left directional, or reverse lights) having voltage. The camera/video switcher also has a slight delay built in so when the directional or reverse lights turn off, the video will display for a couple seconds more before switching back to whatever was previously on the head unit display. This also all works flawlessly with the "CAM" button on the Kenwood head unit that allows you to quickly force the rear camera to display all the time for when you're towing (or if you just like to see where you've been at all times) Let me know if you get stuck and I'll see if I can help.
Thanks, I just did it today, but before I was your post. Thanks for the information, I love the Kenwood unit, ffrom the sound quality to having applecar play.
Once you have apple carplay you can't go back to the dark ages!!!!

Now if I could just get climate control......... heated seats....... blind spot alert... those are my next projects.
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Old 10-16-2019, 04:21 PM   #15
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Now if I could just get climate control......... heated seats....... blind spot alert... those are my next projects.
I see your climate control, heated seats, & blind spot alert and raise you automatic headlights, lane assist, & radar cruise control (dang, my wife's new car is nice - don't have any of the aforementioned features in the Corolla or Greyhawk)!
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Old 10-16-2019, 05:04 PM   #16
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I know I just got an Ford F-150 limited with all the goodies. It has all of the above and massaging seats
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Old 10-16-2019, 07:01 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RFSTech View Post
I know you asked Amstier but here's my 2 cents... The models of these units change rapidly. The DDX9704S (my model) was replaced by the DDX9705S I believe. And there might even be a DDX9706S out or on the horizon. You can get the DDX9705S on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...g=gosale01-20& It's currently $400 which is about what I paid for the DDX9704S.

I think the key difference with the newer models might be the ability to use CarPlay with a wireless bluetooth connection instead of plugging your phone into the head unit. I wish I had this feature in my car (I have the DDX9704S in one of my cars as well) because I'm in and out a lot running errands and such. Not that big of a deal in the motorhome as I typically don't get in and out a lot while driving from point A to B (except for those pesky gas stops).
Models change super quick. I just picked up a DNX995S which was the flagship radio last year. It sold for $1,300. You can get it for $650 now. It has many great things to offer, but the HD screen is extremely awesome.
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