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Old 06-19-2018, 12:32 PM   #1
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Jayco Seneca Master Disconnect Info

Hi everyone,

I have a 2006 Jayco Seneca. It's pretty mint and has been super reliable and mostly trouble free. Most issues have been easily resolved.

I store the Moho inside in winter in an unheated but dry building. When I stored it last fall, one of the last things I did was push the Master Disconnect switch near the side man door of the coach. This should have disconnected the house or coach batteries from any loads. As they were fully charged they should have been just fine over winter, same as any other winter storage. Every spring the Moho starts right up after 7 months of storage and the coach batteries work okay.

This year the switch didn't work. The storage building was being filled up, motorhomes and trailers and boats, etc. pouring in through the door. Not a great time to be troubleshooting. I figured I was okay as everything was turned off anyways.

I went on line and "thought" I'd ordered the correct replacement relay. I ordered an Intellitec latching relay. It's used in many RV applications. I figured I'd just change it out in the spring.

This May when it came time to get the Moho, all batteries were dead. After boosting, I brought the Motor Home back home. All the batteries were completely ruined. When the voltage went down and the cold froze the batteries, they were all toast. Two big 6VDC Coach batteries in the right rear slide out compartment, plus two more 6VDC Coach batteries in a compartment under the driver's step. (The extra coach batteries were an add on that greatly extended battery endurance in our many boondocking trips). As well, the two big 12VDC batteries that supply the Chassis/engine were also dead and ruined.

$1212 CAD later, I had all new batteries and went troubleshooting the Master disconnect. The Intellitec latching relay I bought looked to be a direct replacement for the original piece that was there.

But it was not. Here's why.

The original relay in my Seneca was a KIB LR9806, according to the number stamped into the relay itself. Intellitec offered their PN 53-00066-100 latching relay as a direct replacement for the KIB LR9806. And it was.

Except.

The 2006 Jayco Seneca (and I assume all of the GM based units are alike) uses a KIB LR9806F. Yup, that little F makes a HUGE difference.

To explain why, I need to explain how the Intellitec PN 53-00066-100 and the KIB LR9806 work. These relays work by having the polarity of the voltage on their coil terminals reversed. The coil terminals are marked + positive and - negative. The switch in the coach applies power as plus and minus on the terminals and the coil moves a mechanical part inside itself that closes the relay connect and allows power to flow. Moving the coach switch to disconnect actually applies the power in reverse. (This switching of the voltage polarity is actually done by the switch itself.) This causes the relay to mechanically unlatch or open the circuit. Latching relays are used for this because once they are latched into the ON position, no more power is applied to the coils.

If you have a Coach that has a master disconnect switch that has five or six wires connected to it, then this is the the polarity reversing type of Latching relay that's in your moho. If there are only two wires coming off your switch then your unit uses what is called a "single voltage pulse latching relay".

That is the KIB LR9806F. That F means that this relay is a "single voltage pulse type latching relay".

So, how it works is: You momentarily apply 12VDC to the coil (You "pulsed" the power to the coil). That makes the relay latch to the ON position. The next time you hit the switch, you again apply 12VDC to the coil (you have not switched polarity in any way) and the relay latches to the OFF position.

If your Master Disconnect switch has only two wires coming from it, then your relay is definitely a "single voltage pulse latching relay".

I could have saved myself a lot of grief if I'd only contacted Jayco customer support first and asked for a wiring diagram. The man I spoke with was super helpful. He emailed me a complete set of all wiring diagrams for my unit. As soon as I saw the diagram, I called KIB. They pointed out the difference between the LR9806 and the LR9806F.

I ordered a replacement LR9806F from Jeff at LTD RV Parts just now. He had it in stock, knew the difference between the F and the non F, and shipped within the hour. Another great service oriented guy.

The wiring diagrams are not included in your owner's manual. I've put my treasure trove of diagrams in my manual and stored copies on my PC. May I suggest you call Jayco and give them your serial number? They will email you all the wiring diagrams for free. Even if you don't know anything about electricity, I'm betting your technician will be very happy to have them.

Oh and another interesting thing may happen to you if your relay fails. The 12VDC power for the radio in the dash of your GM Cab comes from a fuse that sits on the side of the LR9806F relay. I kid you not. When my relay failed, that 5 AMP fuse blew and the radio stopped working. Since my relay failed in the ON position, I am able to put in a new fuse and have the radio, and indeed, all the Coach 12VDC lights, etc., work just fine. But if I hit the spring loaded momentary on Master Disconnect switch, that fuse will blow and the radio goes off. The relay stays latched on, btw, so power remains on the Coach 12VDC stuff. You can clearly see why this happens if you examine the wiring diagram.

I'm certain the new correct relay will fix my problem.

Hope this helps someone else. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to try and answer them for you. And a hint to all: take pictures with your smartphone of your wiring before you disconnect anything. You'll be able to refer later.

Cheers from Newfoundland, Canada.
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:25 PM   #2
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We have never understood the "Master Disconnect switch" near the door to disconnect coach and chassis batteries.
In the 3 motorhomes we've had there was either a master disconnect knife switch usually near each battery bank or in the case of our '08 Seneca we have installed wingnuts on the negative cables for long-term storage.
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Old 11-29-2019, 03:29 PM   #3
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Where is the Disconnect Relay Located

Hi. I am a new owner of a gently used 2010 Jayco Seneca. I read through the topic 'Jayco Seneca Master Disconnect Info' as I have the same problem. Can anyone tell me where I can locate the Battery Disconnect Relay on my 2010 Jayco Seneca 35GS model? I did find the Battery Disconnect Isolator Solenoid but have not yet found where the Battery Disconnect Relay is located. Would appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Doug
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Old 11-29-2019, 07:04 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Meko View Post
Hi. I am a new owner of a gently used 2010 Jayco Seneca. I read through the topic 'Jayco Seneca Master Disconnect Info' as I have the same problem. Can anyone tell me where I can locate the Battery Disconnect Relay on my 2010 Jayco Seneca 35GS model? I did find the Battery Disconnect Isolator Solenoid but have not yet found where the Battery Disconnect Relay is located. Would appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Doug
Unless they moved it from where it was in an 08 it's by the batteries towards the back of the compartment,
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:57 PM   #5
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Angry 2010

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Unless they moved it from where it was in an 08 it's by the batteries towards the back of the compartment,
Thanks much, I will check when I have a chance. As I mentioned, I did find the Battery Disconnect Isolator Solenoid located off to the upper left attached to the frame above the coach battery tray. So, what you are saying is that the latching relay is located behind the battery tray?

The problem that I am having is that I hear the latching relay clicking when I press the disconnect switch, however I suspect the relay is stuck in the open position as I have no 12V power in the coach. I also read that it could be a fuse located somewhere near the latching relay. Again, if anyone can shed more light on this problem it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Doug
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Old 02-17-2020, 07:29 PM   #6
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Confused

Hi! Resurrecting this thread as we have a similar problem on our new to us 07 seneca.

When I purchased the rv, the seller told me had trouble getting 12v to work properly. His mechanic decided to jumper the battery relay to keep the coach batteries on at all times. The mechanic followed up by disconnecting the battery disconnect switch by the front door and capping ends with wire nuts. I tested the wires today and they show 12v active.

I called jayco today (talked with Jon) and he sent me the entire wire schematics for 12v and 120v. I'm confused as to what the op is talking about with multiple wires and momentary cutoff switches. Mine is a single pole switch in either fully on or full off going directly to one post on the solenoid/relay by the batteries. The other on the door switch goes straight to ground. In the schematics, from 2004 through 2009 (on the kodiak chassis), there doesn't seem to be any other momentary switch in relation to battery cutoff, unless the op meant the relay as the master cutoff switch and not the door cutoff switch. Semantics? Miscommunication in terminology? All Senecas (according to attached 12v diagram) shows only 2-wire single-pole battery disconnect switch at door.

Guess my question is, how do I test if the relay is good/bad? And, if it is bad, how do I be sure I get the right relay/solenoid? Or....is the "big hammer" idea of removing the neg cable the best idea?

Thanks for indulging the rookie!
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Old 02-17-2020, 08:29 PM   #7
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Give Me a Call

Hi,

Give me a call and we can discuss your problem which sounds similar to mine. The number is: (218) 410-9330. Hope to hear from you.

Doug
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Old 06-28-2020, 02:37 PM   #8
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Life saving thread here. Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-07-2020, 09:22 PM   #9
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Hey guys hoping to maybe get some help/advise. I have a 2008 Seneca 35gs and the front tv receptacle, and step override switch is not working when plugged into shore power. I’ve checked tighten breakers, GFCIs, voltage everywhere else is good. Any suggestions?
Thanks
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Old 12-12-2020, 12:36 PM   #10
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Hey Travisk05. I'm still troubleshooting my own electrical problems street having find a massive leak in the main slide seal which led to replacing the subfloor. Ouch. And....I'm still trying to figure out the electrical too. Don't know what these people did when they were building this thing. It had to work from the factory,, but it clearly doesn't now. Fun times. Sorry I don't have any answers for ya either at this time.
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Old 12-12-2020, 04:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Travisk05 View Post
Hey guys hoping to maybe get some help/advise. I have a 2008 Seneca 35gs and the front tv receptacle, and step override switch is not working when plugged into shore power. I’ve checked tighten breakers, GFCIs, voltage everywhere else is good. Any suggestions?
Thanks
The outlet will be disconnected whenever the coach is not in PARK. Perhaps you should verify that the line that is connected to the PARK sensor is connected.
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Old 03-12-2022, 09:11 AM   #12
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Same solenoid different issue

Maybe this thread can be resurrected. 2006 35gs. I believe the solenoid is bad. However when installing a simple manual switch, turn it on, the power goes to 0v. Both sides of switch. Connecting the output wire off the solenoid directly to the battery works fine and coach has full power. Something is causing the 12v input to the solenoid to drop out. Any ideas?
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Old 03-12-2022, 09:59 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Wyazjr View Post
Maybe this thread can be resurrected. 2006 35gs. I believe the solenoid is bad. However when installing a simple manual switch, turn it on, the power goes to 0v. Both sides of switch. Connecting the output wire off the solenoid directly to the battery works fine and coach has full power. Something is causing the 12v input to the solenoid to drop out. Any ideas?
"a simple manual switch"? The switch used to operate the solenoid is a momentary switch, not constant on. As posted in the first post:

So, how it works is: You momentarily apply 12VDC to the coil (You "pulsed" the power to the coil). That makes the relay latch to the ON position. The next time you hit the switch, you again apply 12VDC to the coil (you have not switched polarity in any way) and the relay latches to the OFF position.

If you apply constant voltage the relay is not latching.
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Old 03-12-2022, 10:30 AM   #14
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Thanks. I wasn't getting power trying to turn on the switch at entry door, thus bypassing the whole thing. The positive from battery is disconnected from solenoid and shows 12v. The output from solenoid is disconnected and on other side of manual switch and as should be is 0v. When those two cables are connected, what was the input to the solenoid goes to 0v. What could make voltage drop out?
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