Leaking water valve controller

[Neil&Anna]

Hi All,

My 2016 Grayhawk 31FS has a leak in the water valve controller. We are able to use the fresh water tank without the controller leaking, but not the city water settings. I applied some marine grade glue to the joint (brass female/plastic male) joint but it appears the 60 PSI is too much. I tried removing the controller but I don't a wrench. I'm wondering if I need to replace the controller? Perhaps if I had the right tools it would be easier to remove.

[Rustynuts]

I was having problems getting a propane line to seal and was told by a friend to try RectorSeal #5 Pipe Thread Sealant and that took care of it first try. I have been using it on everything since and have yet to have any leaks on pipe threads. Might give it a try.

[ALJO]

Clamping as in the picture is asking for problems. Crimp clamping is the method to go.
Valves in a water manifold are easy to serve (as for any plastic valve with O-Ring) - use Vaseline on the O-ring.

[gdfranklin]

I have the same issue with my water control valve on a 2017 Jayco 26X1... It’s leaking on both sides where the brass meets the plastic in the center. What was your solution in the end?

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Clamping as in the picture is asking for problems. Crimp clamping is the method to go.

I had the same thought - are those the original crimps from Jayco???

[gdfranklin]

The screw clamps are the same in mine and seem to be original. They are NOT the source of the leak. They actually allowed me to remove the valve for service. The Leak seems to be between the brass fittings and the center plastic pipe. It leaks both sides from the plastic to the brass. I’m going to try some pressure tests tomorrow.

[JFlightRisk]

It looks like the center tee can be replaced with a brass tee. An auto parts store, Lowes, or Tractor Supply should have that in stock.

[gdfranklin]

I was just going to redo the threading compound, but brass would make sense if I can get the right size. I'll do some pressure testing tomorrow and see what I can find for replacement parts.

[Neil&Anna]

Sorry to hear about your water leaks, how frustrating. I was able to find a cast iron T-joint at Home Depot that is working perfectly. The only issue I had was the new T-joint is not the same length as the original plastic T-joint so the metal plate that attached to the levers no longer aligns. I replaced it with thin plywood. I didn't have a drill bit big enough to drill the holes for the valve spindle but a local RV centre helped me with that. Good luck.

[gdfranklin]

I found a replacement brass t connection at Home Depot. I installed it using Teflon tape and sealant. The mounting holes had a bit of slop so the slight difference in size was not a problem. One word of caution... it is possible to mount the black valve handles backwards! That had me going crazy for a couple of hours with nothing working properly. If you remove the handles in the middle position then they only go back one way.

[Florida Ranger]

60 psi water pressure is way to much to use on an RV water system. 40 to 50 is what manufacturers recommend with 40 psi preferred. I know you can go higher but why do you need to if it might cause troubles........Also how did you get to the vavles ? My 2018 Greyhawk FS does not have any access to the valves , Please tell me how you got to the back of the valves. Thanks for your help.

[gdfranklin]

I use a pressure reducer that brings me down to 45psi on city water, but even then the the valve was leaking. Also when drawing water from the tank I had an air leak that caused issues with my pump. Redoing the tee connection solved both issues.

On my Redhawk 26X1 the valves are mounted to a metal plate. Removing six screws allowed me to remove the valve from the front. I was then able to disconnect the hoses by undoing the clamps.

[groutman]

i had to take mine out and put Teflon tape on the threads

[Florida Ranger]

Thank you for showing me how to access the valves. I hope they are the same on my 2018 Greyhawk 31fs.

[Camper_bob]

I’m dealing with a leak in this spot right now. Slow drip from the plastic/brass interface. It started out one side was leaky. Fixed it by tightening and applying Teflon tape. Put it all back together, and now the other side is leaking. But I’m out of gear, so since I have to go to the store anyway, and break it all down again, I figure I’ll pull out the plastic and see if I can replace with brass...

[kcrockett]

Here I am with a 2023 Entegra Odyssey 30Z and have the same leak where brass meets the plastic T. Why would they do that with everyone having problems. I can see black sealant on the threads from the factory but it's leaking.

What was the solve? Anyone find a brass fitting?

[MEILI]

My 23 26M has the same leak. I used Teflon but I still have the leak.