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Old 01-04-2016, 12:32 PM   #11
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hebron
Posts: 214
With auto leveling it always raises the front too high then brings the rear up. It's level but too high usually with the front wheels off the ground. I now raise the front manually just a bit and then raise the rear manually. I listen until it deflates the rear air suspension.
Then I retract the levelers and start over manually, since it is now sitting much lower in the rear I activate the front levelers until they just touch the ground keeping the unit level side to side. I then use the rear levelers to bring the unit level front to back. Using this method has the entry step at least 4" to 6" lower to the ground which makes a huge difference.
If the pad is way off I always drive up on blocks to start as level as possible.

This only takes a few more minutes and when at a extended stay that lower step height adds up over a week or two.
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2014 Seneca 37 FS
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited
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Old 04-27-2016, 03:33 PM   #12
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Location: Southern Illinois
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I am a new '14 37FS Owner. After experiencing exactly what Mr. Oz stated and then having some type of issue induced into the hydros (I suspect) as a result of over-extending the jacks and nearly being stranded in camp, I'll be manually leveling from now on. -After speaking to Jim at BigFoot (at 9am on a Sunday -They're super-nice, there) he coached me through putting it into manual mode.
  1. Power System On
  2. Allow time to let all lights finish chasing themselves
  3. Press & Hold Manual for 5 - 8 seconds, the light will come on
  4. On my particular model, I have to wait (approx 40sec) for the "Air Dump" light to go out
  5. You shoud, now, be able to manually lower and raise the coach
  6. I use a Bubble Level App on my smartphone and usually get the coach 4" - 6" lower to the ground than Auto, regularly without lifting the wheels off the ground if mostly-level parking lot/campsite
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