Manual air bag dump system

ready2retire&drive · 09-17-2017, 08:19 PM

Got all my pieces to tackle the manual air dump operation. I will install the two ball valves between the air bag tee and valve in case valve fails, that way I can close the valve and still have air in the bags to make it home. The (Momentary on)manual switch I plan on powering from the accessory position of the ignition so they can't be dumped will driving accidently. The exhaust is adjustable so I can control the lowering of the unit. I will cut a plate to mount these all onto the cross member at the air bags. I will send pics and part numbers upon completion and it working . I am sure this will help with the auto leveling and possibly keep from lifting the Motorhome off the ground and stressing the body.

Robbbyr · 09-18-2017, 05:15 AM

Following closely, thanks for posting!

jschulz1720 · 09-18-2017, 06:34 AM

Also following.

memphis02 · 09-18-2017, 08:51 AM

Following as well! -Got a lot of weird looks, this past weekend when folks saw a freightliner do the hokey-pokey to get leveled up!

memphis02 · 09-18-2017, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ready2retire&drive

The (Momentary on)manual switch I plan on powering from the accessory position of the ignition so they can't be dumped will driving accidently.

Not sure where you're planning to get your ignition source from, however, I found something, working on my auto-gen issue last week that may be of help:

In the battery compartment, on the aux start solenoid, there is a lead for switched ignition. It might be easier pulling from there, rather than all the way from the fuse block or inside the engine compartment.

RVermont · 09-18-2017, 12:08 PM

Did you get this drawing from jayco? I started to draw this up my self but it would be great if I can get this directly from them.

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memphis02 · 09-18-2017, 01:22 PM

I did. Here is a copy of the entire print. PM me your email and I can send you a PDF version, which might be easier to zoom into, if you like:

ready2retire&drive · 09-23-2017, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by memphis02

Not sure where you're planning to get your ignition source from, however, I found something, working on my auto-gen issue last week that may be of help:

In the battery compartment, on the aux start solenoid, there is a lead for switched ignition. It might be easier pulling from there, rather than all the way from the fuse block or inside the engine compartment.

So this lead only powers up when the key is on the accessory position?

RVermont · 09-23-2017, 03:21 PM

I would use the tv cutout relay circuit. Install a solenoid on that leg and use a normally closed circuit. That way when the engine is running the circuit will open and you will not be able to energize your air solenoid. Once the engine shuts off the solenoid will drop out and the circuit will be powered. Use this suggestion based on what you paid for it. I.e. Free advise is worth every penny.

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memphis02 · 09-23-2017, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ready2retire&drive

So this lead only powers up when the key is on the accessory position?

This only energizes when the key is on / engine is running. This is also the source for the tv cutout relay circuit. In this photo, you can actually see the purple wires for the cutout relay.

Crossingover · 09-25-2017, 11:19 AM

I understand that the heavy duty 2/0 cables need to have short runs to the batteries but I think Jayco should have located these relays and whatnot to a compartment sealed from the battery gases and road dirt/grime/salt. Our previous rig had all this stuff in a sealed compartment that kept it very clean and corrosion free (which must help improve reliability).

GuidoDoc · 10-28-2017, 04:42 PM

Anyone try this without the electronic solenoid valves? I was thinking of putting a T into the air line headed to the airbags and running the hose into one of the compartments. Mount a manual ball valve in the compartment. When we arrive and I open the compartment to get the power cable out I can just open the dump valve. Thoughts?

OP - can you give us a material list? What type and size of hose?

rgolding · 10-28-2017, 06:50 PM

I apologize for being dense, but what is the reason for wanting to do this? our 2016 37FS releases air as we put it on the legs. I have paid attention to the not lifting the front end of the ground and understand the strain on the cabin/cab joint. I thought that was great advice on this Forum and makes great sense.

I used to have an hydraulic trailer for lifting and moving large sailboats and we always expected the air to slowly leak off when the compressor was shut down. We would put blocks under the frame of the trailer to keep the boat level or mast over the keel.

GuidoDoc · 10-29-2017, 05:54 AM

We camp in a lot of state parks and such where the sites aren’t flat. When we park and level the front wheels are often off the ground and if it is a really unlevel site I have to use a bunch of leveling blocks to get the front high enough. So dropping the back down first would mean it can level at an overall lower height.

Yes the air bags dump when weight is lifted off because of the leveler valve. What I have been doing lately is leveling then lowering when the air dump is done then releveling. Takes longer, a valve would be quick and easy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgolding

I apologize for being dense, but what is the reason for wanting to do this? our 2016 37FS releases air as we put it on the legs. I have paid attention to the not lifting the front end of the ground and understand the strain on the cabin/cab joint. I thought that was great advice on this Forum and makes great sense.

I used to have an hydraulic trailer for lifting and moving large sailboats and we always expected the air to slowly leak off when the compressor was shut down. We would put blocks under the frame of the trailer to keep the boat level or mast over the keel.

rgolding · 10-29-2017, 06:36 AM

Ahhhh! Thanks for the explanation.

memphis02 · 10-30-2017, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GuidoDoc

Anyone try this without the electronic solenoid valves? I was thinking of putting a T into the air line headed to the airbags and running the hose into one of the compartments. Mount a manual ball valve in the compartment. When we arrive and I open the compartment to get the power cable out I can just open the dump valve. Thoughts?

OP - can you give us a material list? What type and size of hose?

I had considered trying this very thing. Definitely, not as fancy, but it ought to work the same way. Given my luck with things, it certainly sounds like less points of failure, also....

MD3 · 11-18-2017, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GuidoDoc

Anyone try this without the electronic solenoid valves? I was thinking of putting a T into the air line headed to the airbags and running the hose into one of the compartments. Mount a manual ball valve in the compartment. When we arrive and I open the compartment to get the power cable out I can just open the dump valve. Thoughts?

OP - can you give us a material list? What type and size of hose?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by memphis02

I had considered trying this very thing. Definitely, not as fancy, but it ought to work the same way. Given my luck with things, it certainly sounds like less points of failure, also....

Either of you guys try a manual dump setup ?
I'm trying to figure out how I want to go about doing one but if someone else has already done it I'll take any advice I can get.

_

MD3 · 01-04-2018, 09:56 AM

How much air do you dump or do you dump all the air out of the bags before leveling ?

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ready2retire&drive · 01-04-2018, 06:39 PM

I found when dumping my air bags I had to drop almost all the air out. If the pressure left in the system was higher than 40 psi? they started to lift and fill again. I believe whether the application is solenoid's or manual dump you would still have to drop below this threshold to prevent them trying to fill again.

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