Mattress Rave!!

[WaltW]

Somewhere I got bad info. All the air mattresses CW sells have rigid foam edges according to the installation instructions for the Sleep Number's. Sooo, it's back to square one until they come back with height of the 9" mattress when deflated. It has to be less than 8 inches.

[edatlanta]

Originally Posted by WaltW

norty1, if you have the Sleep Number RV mattress there is no rigid foam around the edges as there is on their residential Sleep Number mattresses. After my last post I went to the local Sleep Number store and that's what they told me. The RV is like their C2 model but without the rigid foam. So I also ordered one from CW as it was $800 cheaper. CW is carrying another inflatable mattress brand that does have the firm foam around the edges. Looking at the CW options led me to believe construction was the same….NOT.

No to lowering the bed. It's as low as it will go with the slide mechanism under it. The bed is also too low as is to be comfortable getting out of the bed. The Sleep Number will raise the height when inflated. I have 20 years of warranty to wear out the motor.

I have a Sleep Number RV Radius King that I got from CW several years ago. It does have rigid foam around the edges and also rigid foam down the middle between the bladders. When I first looked at a Sleep Number bed in one of their stores they didn't even know there was a RV Radius King model. Unless SN has stopped with the rigid foam in this model, it is still there and the SN store people just don't know since they can't sell it. I would like to hear if this is the case now.

[edatlanta]

Originally Posted by norty1

Save yourself a $100.00 and assemble it yourself. It's easy and you learn a lot about it. I had to drill one hole for a power cord and also one small slot on the bed board for the air hose to come up at the head end. The inflation unit is underneath. We velcroed the remote above the headboard.
Our original mattress was not radius cut so we went with the standard corner.
Our new one weighs less than the old one.

X2 on assembling yourself. Getting the old POS mattress out was difficult, but taking the SN in piece at a time is a piece of cake. Easy job.

[WaltW]

Ed, there is foam in the RV mattresses and in the Deluxe it is 6 inches in height. Sooo, deflated, the mattress will be at least 6 inches high. Will go to SN store and test a C2 model which is essentially the same.

They do not sell RV mattresses in SN store. You have to order from SN and get shipped to home.

[cbss]

I replaced my mattress with one from these guys. Let me tell you what a difference it was. If you want to have some great people to deal with please call. I have rounded corners on the lower half and could not find anything that I liked and the person hat I talked to was a great help.

They had me measure the old one and helped me select out the foam and cover. I did not even think about the cover, but they told me that it would be good to use a cool-max cover that is zipped so it can be removed and cleaned.

The mattress cam in only 5 days from Colorado to California. It arrived FedEx and was rolled and packed in a small (6 foot by 18 inch box); I opened the box and found the mattress rolled in a paper with tape holding the shape.

Took inside the RV laid out and removed the packing to find the mattress vacuumed pack in a bag. Opened the bag and look out the mattress expanded out to the full 11 inches thick in lest then 5 minutes.
Let me say, if you are thinking about a new mattress think about t giving www.MattressInsider.Com a call. And also there was free shipping.

Chuck

________________________________________
Customized Order
MI Part Number: vc338dn
Notes::
Dimensions: 60 x 75 x 10 w/ 2 - 12" radius corners at the foot
Product Type: Custom Luxury Memory Foam Mattress
Cover: Cool-MAX® Removable Cover
Layer #1: 3" 0412 gel
Layer #2: 7" 1831
Layer #3:
Layer #4:
Layer #5:
________________________________________
MattressInsider.Com
Phone: 1-888-488-1468
Fax: 1-866-761-3051
URL: MattressInsider.com | Custom Size Mattress

I posted this in other places......

[rgolding]

Originally Posted by WaltW

Ric, you should have the new "upgraded" mattress that Jayco wants to send me to replace the Denver Weekender that is in my 36FK. Does your mattress have a label in it?

With having to slide under the closet furniture, my mattress height must be less than 8 inches. That's an absolute number based on my measurements. 7 inches would be ideal but not having much luck finding a 72x80 radiused king.

WaltW,

I got the Sleep Number King Size Radius Corner bed installed, Tuesday, 2/9/16. Sleeps great! To slide under the slide out on our 2016 37FS, we deflate it considerably. Right now, I am sleeping with Sleep Number 100, wife is at 80. Very comfortable and firm. What we really need to deflate to, we haven't discovered, yet, we just set it down to SN#30 or so.

[WaltW]

Chuck (cbss) guess you missed the part that those of us with Senecas other than the HJ floorplan can't use a mattress over 7.9" thick…therein lies the problem. Yours is 10" high.

Ric, I run mine down to zero and there's still air in it. That's why I use a plastic tarp on top to minimize the rubbing. Figure the cloth top would wear through pretty quickly. Wonder how (in)accurate the air gauges are? I'm sleeping at 50, DW at 25. After a month on road the sleeping was great…every night.

[rgolding]

WaltW,
You said -"Ric, I run mine down to zero and there's still air in it. That's why I use a plastic tarp on top to minimize the rubbing. Figure the cloth top would wear through pretty quickly. Wonder how (in)accurate the air gauges are? I'm sleeping at 50, DW at 25. After a month on road the sleeping was great…every night.

Well, I guess it would be the bed sheets and cover. So this tarp, are you talking about a "blue tarp" or something else?

[anav8or]

WaltW -

We've been looking for a replacement mattress for our 2015 FK as well. I didn't think the sleep number mattress was an option, so I'm glad to hear that you were able to get it to work.

How tall is the mattress when deflated? Do you have to "help" it get under the closet overhang, or does it do okay on its own? Also, do you have the Deluxe model (as opposed to the Premier which looks to be considerably taller)?

I really need to do something - the Denver mattress sucks.

[WaltW]

Answering 2 posts here.

When deflated the sleep comfort is a little more than 8 inches. That's why I use the plastic to minimize abrasion. The tarp is brown(ish) and obtained from Lowe's (I think). It's thicker than the blue ones and with a smoother finish.

I sometimes have DW help it go under the washer/dryer cabinet. She can slip in and out with the slide closed, I can't. She maintains it's not necessary.

I tried using some tie-downs to compress the foot of the bed more but stuff still bulged so not canned that.

Sleep Comfort is CW's brand and made by the same company that builds sleep number.

[rgolding]

WaltW,

Thanks for your replies. I've got a couple of those tarps and the bride wants to know about using a plastic $3 table cloth?

Any body that ever questions the value of a forum like this, needs to read this whole thread. This is people sharing info and experience about a very specific product in an application that is unique to our situations.

[WaltW]

Ric, that's a good idea. The cloth side should "hold" to the bed while the slick side would facilitate moving under the closet furniture. The tarp is way too big but it was the stiffest and slickest I could find.

I really wanted a 2 foot wide piece of webbing to compress the end of the bed. Another thought was to not install the rigid foam at the foot of the mattress but I was concerned that it wouldn't sit right when dressing et al.

BTW, I haven;t figured out a slick way to handle the pump. Mine lays on the right side of the bed next to electrical outlet when in use and gets tossed on the bed when slide goes in. Really think through and try stuff before you cut hoses!

[anav8or]

Originally Posted by rgolding

Any body that ever questions the value of a forum like this, needs to read this whole thread. This is people sharing info and experience about a very specific product in an application that is unique to our situations.

I couldn't agree more. I can't count the number of times I've run into an issue and found a solution on this forum.

[rgolding]

WaltW,

You said -" I haven;t figured out a slick way to handle the pump. Mine lays on the right side of the bed next to electrical outlet when in use and gets tossed on the bed when slide goes in. Really think through and try stuff before you cut hoses!"

I followed the directions and cut a hole 2" x 3" in middle of bed plywood bottom right below the hinge at the head of the bed. Pump hoses and electrical cord goes through them from the pump which is under the bed and over to a surge protector strip mounted on back window side of the bed. So I'm wondering did you hook hoses up just to see if this was going to work?

I see two solutions:
1. Cut slit style slot 2x 3 or less in bed floor plywood near edge and run hoses and electrical plug in to pump under the bed.

2. Call "Sleep Number" and find out how to get hoses off of mattresses. Looks kinda like a "Shark Bite" plumbing connection.

[WaltW]

Well Ric, I frankly didn't give it much thought as the mattress arrived a couple of days before our departure. I just hooked it up with the stuff on the outside (vs under bed) and figured I would refine it later.

[rgolding]

Originally Posted by WaltW

Well Ric, I frankly didn't give it much thought as the mattress arrived a couple of days before our departure. I just hooked it up with the stuff on the outside (vs under bed) and figured I would refine it later.

Boy WaltW, I understand the fact of getting things done, when you can. What people don't think about in this discussion, is that you also have to get rid of a monster mattress, at the same time you are doing this. I know that was half our battle, just getting the other mattress out of the way. Our cat and dog are still having nightmares about the experience.

So, on the 36 the whole bed frame moves? I remember this. WaltW, why don't you consider mounting a surge protector power strip to the outside of the bed platform, up high near the underside of the mattress? This way the cord of the surge protector is what moves or is unplugged and the Sleep Number power cord stays with the moving bed, plus also follows the instructions to have a surge protector between the power supply and the SN Air Pump. I'm favoring the idea of a 2 inch by 2 inch slit in the edge of plywood platform right by the surge protector plug on the side of the bed frame. So the pump, the excess power cord and the excess air hoses are all safe under the bed. The air hoses run under the mattress on top of the plywood, under the mattress to where they hook in to the mattresses. The hose is hard, so no concern about crushing the hoses or feeling them under the mattresses.

Projects, projects, projects. Put them on a list, prioritize, re-copy, contemplate, with luck loose the list and start the lists again.

[WaltW]

No the bed base does not move. Only the plywood panel that the mattress lays on moves. I think with the pump under the bed it would have to be attached to the moving panel so the air tubes don't get dragged. There are no mounting points on the pump so I envision a wire basket connected to the bottom of panel (trip to container store after taking measurements). That way only the electrical cord would drag.

I would also have to rethink storage of stuff under the bed but maybe unplugging when pulling slide in would minimize opportunity for snagging cord. Would have preferred Jayco solve the problem.

BTW, Jayco offered to replace with 2016 mattress but see that would not help based on posts. Glad I went the way I did.

[rgolding]

WaltW.

When we first looked at our 37FS, there was a panel off on the pillow side of the hinge for the plywood platform under the bed. I hope I described this area enough, that you can figure out where I'm talking about. Behind this was plumbing and electrical wiring. By the time we picked it up, this panel was in place. Anyway lots of room under there. Struggling to picture what area under yours would look like, BUT there has got to be a floor to the slide out that is under the head of your bed. Maybe, you could put the pump and then the access hoses under that section and it would move with the bed. I would make a power surge power cord move with the bed and not the Sleep Number pump power cord.

I understand exactly what you are saying about a basket on the bottom side of the plywood the mattress sits on. Once again, I would have a surge protector power cord do the sliding, instead of your Sleep Number power cord.

[WaltW]

Originally Posted by rgolding

WaltW.

... there has got to be a floor to the slide out that is under the head of your bed. Maybe, you could put the pump and then the access hoses under that section and it would move with the bed.

Ric, bed on slide is very different from yours and my former DP where the bed box, floor and all, moved in and out. Bed box in 36FK is stationary. What sits on top of bed box moves. Under bed is slide mechanism, etc.

Your Seneca floor plan is the only one where the bed doesn't move.

[rgolding]

"Your Seneca floor plan is the only one where the bed doesn't move."

Hmmm, never thought or knew of that.