New Greyhawk 29MV!

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by in the wind

Mine has carpet, I kind of like it. Maybe you could get a carpet kit for a van front.
http://www.qualitycarmats.com/FloorM...yABEgIRTvD_BwE

Nah, like I said, I actually like the vinyl. It's super easy to clean and doesn't hold dirt and dander like carpet does. For an allergy sufferer like me, carpet is bad, so I'm happy to have very little of it in the MH. If I put a carpeted mat up there, I can easily remove it for cleaning or disposal.

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Nah, like I said, I actually like the vinyl. It's super easy to clean and doesn't hold dirt and dander like carpet does. For an allergy sufferer like me, carpet is bad, so I'm happy to have very little of it in the MH. If I put a carpeted mat up there, I can easily remove it for cleaning or disposal.

X2 - I totally agree. Carpet is nice when it’s new, but it goes downhill from there.

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Update with preliminary results:



Just for a refresher on what I'm reporting results on: Installation of Roadmaster Reflex Steering stabilizer, adjustment to Hellwig Helper springs to 1" off the OEM leaf pack, and installation of sound and heat insulation in the driving compartment.



I was able to get my Roadmaster Reflex steering stabilizer installed last night (ordered from Etrailer; I had to order the stabilizer and the mounting bracket separately, but both were in stock and I paid a little to have them shipped faster so I could get it installed before we leave). Installation is relatively easy except that it seems like EVERY fastener used by Ford (you must remove the OEM steering damper), and/or by Roadmaster is a different size. I spent more time digging for the right socket/wrench than I did on the installation itself. Ratcheting wrenches are helpful here since clearances are difficult on some of the fasteners.



Roadmaster Reflex results: I took the Greyhawk on about a 15 mile test loop that included virtually all driving conditions I will face. High speed and low speed country roads, some smooth and some not, city driving (like downtown city; we stopped for ice cream!) that included speeds as low as 30 and as high as 45, and even some high speed interstate driving. Much of the journey even had a pretty stiff cross wind for good measure!!



Overall, results are extremely positive. I'm tempering my excitement and analysis as I wasn't quite loaded like I normally would be, and even 15 miles is a pretty short test loop. I immediately noticed less input required on the steering wheel to keep the rig going straight down the road, so the rig is MUCH easier to control; steering inputs are smaller and less frequent. Cross winds are much easier to deal with, as are wind buffets from passing vehicles. I was able to experience passing a tractor and trailer, and then being passed by same. When I passed him, the wind pushed me over some, and when he passed me, not as much. So, the rig still moves a bit, but the steering input to control that movement is much more "calm", predictable, and precise. The wheel returns to center with more force coming out of a turn which is very nice. I can let the steering do the work instead of having to actively turn the wheel back the other way coming out of a turn. I will update more after a long journey, but preliminary results are EXTREMELY promising.



Hellwig Helper Adjustment: This has been discussed on the forum going back to at least 2014. The Hellwig helpers that J-Ride equipped units come with are set to a minimum adjustment, which basically amounts to them being not much more than bolted on. Apparently if you ask, Jayco will say "leave them alone" and Hellwig will tell you to tighten them to 2". Their printed instructions say you can go as tight as 1/4". I adjusted mine down to 1" off the OEM leaf pack (after having to replace one of the U-bolts). DW said she thought the ride was better in the rear of the coach. She also admitted that she's not very good at judging these things. When I make a suspension enhancement or tweak on any of our vehicles, she never admits to feeling a difference.



From the driver's seat, I noticed an improvement. Body roll was less pronounced, and I did indeed feel like the ride was smoother. Not that the ride was ever what I would consider "harsh". I would say it was time well spent getting that right, and this could contribute to better handling in the front end as well.



Sound/temperature insulation in driving compartment: I noticed right away that engine drone under acceleration was MUCH less pronounced. Previously I remember thinking how loud that V-10 can get when you get it spun up; last night it wasn't so bad. Driving down the road, I could hear and understand DW and DS talking in regular tones of voice from the rear where previously I MIGHT have been able to hear mumbling. As far as temperature, I didn't drive enough to evaluate that IMO; I will know more on that during our road trip coming up. I will say that I did not shoot baseline temps around the cab, so any improvement will be subjective, same with sound deadening, I didn't take decibel readings before the mods (I have an app for that).



Overall, across all of the mods I did, I would say there is marked improvement, and for right now, I would say it was money and time well spent. Again, I will refrain from putting my "stamp of approval" on any of this until after our upcoming long road trip since I will have PLENTY of time in the cockpit to give a definite thumbs up or down...

I just received a Reflex and bracket. When you installed it, did you have to adjust it for center? If not, what did you do to insure it didn’t pull to one side or the other? I purchased mine from rvupgrades.com. The price was right and the shipping was very fast. Total cost to my door was: $290.51. Not bad, since some want over $500 for the same thing. I’m anxious to install it today.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by gprapim

I just received a Reflex and bracket. When you installed it, did you have to adjust it for center? If not, what did you do to insure it didn’t pull to one side or the other? I purchased mine from rvupgrades.com. The price was right and the shipping was very fast. Total cost to my door was: $290.51. Not bad, since some want over $500 for the same thing. I’m anxious to install it today.

Really, I just tried to ensure the wheel was centered BEFORE I began work. I figured this would be the best way to ensure it was centered after install. You cannot compress or expand the spring and shock with your hands, so it will by default bolt on in a "neutral" attitude. Just try to get it as parallel with the drag link as you possibly can.

I was afraid I might have been off a bit on the initial drive, because it seemed to be "pulling" a bit, but I discovered that was probably the wind, not that the rig was actually pulling. I had a pretty stiff cross-breeze on that initial test route. That particular road has a bit of a crown to it as well. If I find I need to adjust it, it's easy with a 9/16 wrench to loosen two of the hold down nuts while DW operates the steering.

ETA: That's a pretty good price. I think I paid just a few cents over $300 shipped from Etrailer.com. It qualified for free shipping, but I spent a few bucks to get 3-day shipping.

[che57vy]

You will cut down some more heat by wrapping the exhaust where it runs under the floor on passenger side real close, almost would melt wife's shoe ha, I wrapped both sides really helped with the heat

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by che57vy

You will cut down some more heat by wrapping the exhaust where it runs under the floor on passenger side real close, almost would melt wife's shoe ha, I wrapped both sides really helped with the heat

I really think that's the next thing I'm going to do on that project.

First I'm going to see how this trip goes, but I have a feeling I'll be wrapping that exhaust this Fall.

[pconroy]

Just commenting on the Ford's use of different size bolts/nuts. Re-aiming the Aero Headlamps on our coach has been on my to-do list for months. Finally got around to pulling the lamp out so I could find the aiming screw. Top bolt is 8mm, bottoms are 7mm.

Really Ford??????

Why?????????

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Really, I just tried to ensure the wheel was centered BEFORE I began work. I figured this would be the best way to ensure it was centered after install. You cannot compress or expand the spring and shock with your hands, so it will by default bolt on in a "neutral" attitude. Just try to get it as parallel with the drag link as you possibly can.

I was afraid I might have been off a bit on the initial drive, because it seemed to be "pulling" a bit, but I discovered that was probably the wind, not that the rig was actually pulling. I had a pretty stiff cross-breeze on that initial test route. That particular road has a bit of a crown to it as well. If I find I need to adjust it, it's easy with a 9/16 wrench to loosen two of the hold down nuts while DW operates the steering.

ETA: That's a pretty good price. I think I paid just a few cents over $300 shipped from Etrailer.com. It qualified for free shipping, but I spent a few bucks to get 3-day shipping.

Thank you. I’m about to go into the garage and install it. I appreciate the pointers.

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by gprapim

Thank you. I’m about to go into the garage and install it. I appreciate the pointers.

Approximately 1 hour later it was installed. Had to make one adjustment for slight pull to the right and all is well. It took most of the play out of the front end which eliminated most of the wandering and the need for constant correcting with the steering wheel at highway speeds. 18 wheelers passed and were passed by me with little push or pull and much less correction on my part to stay in the lane. It was also gusty today and it certainly helped with that as well. All in all, it seemed to work well and was worth the purchase price. On my next trip I will be towing either my 4 door Rubicon or my trailer with my RZR 4 seater and am sure the results will be along the same lines as today. I would recommend the Roadmaster Reflex stabilizer to anyone who has the Ford E 450 chassis on their Class C.

[Rvorbust]

Wow, both poles of that outlet are powered by the inverter in my ‘18 29MV

[Marcm157]

Congrats on the trade up! Enjoy...

[Jimmyd]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Update with preliminary results:

Just for a refresher on what I'm reporting results on: Installation of Roadmaster Reflex Steering stabilizer, adjustment to Hellwig Helper springs to 1" off the OEM leaf pack, and installation of sound and heat insulation in the driving compartment.

I was able to get my Roadmaster Reflex steering stabilizer installed last night (ordered from Etrailer; I had to order the stabilizer and the mounting bracket separately, but both were in stock and I paid a little to have them shipped faster so I could get it installed before we leave). Installation is relatively easy except that it seems like EVERY fastener used by Ford (you must remove the OEM steering damper), and/or by Roadmaster is a different size. I spent more time digging for the right socket/wrench than I did on the installation itself. Ratcheting wrenches are helpful here since clearances are difficult on some of the fasteners.

Roadmaster Reflex results: I took the Greyhawk on about a 15 mile test loop that included virtually all driving conditions I will face. High speed and low speed country roads, some smooth and some not, city driving (like downtown city; we stopped for ice cream!) that included speeds as low as 30 and as high as 45, and even some high speed interstate driving. Much of the journey even had a pretty stiff cross wind for good measure!!

Overall, results are extremely positive. I'm tempering my excitement and analysis as I wasn't quite loaded like I normally would be, and even 15 miles is a pretty short test loop. I immediately noticed less input required on the steering wheel to keep the rig going straight down the road, so the rig is MUCH easier to control; steering inputs are smaller and less frequent. Cross winds are much easier to deal with, as are wind buffets from passing vehicles. I was able to experience passing a tractor and trailer, and then being passed by same. When I passed him, the wind pushed me over some, and when he passed me, not as much. So, the rig still moves a bit, but the steering input to control that movement is much more "calm", predictable, and precise. The wheel returns to center with more force coming out of a turn which is very nice. I can let the steering do the work instead of having to actively turn the wheel back the other way coming out of a turn. I will update more after a long journey, but preliminary results are EXTREMELY promising.

Hellwig Helper Adjustment: This has been discussed on the forum going back to at least 2014. The Hellwig helpers that J-Ride equipped units come with are set to a minimum adjustment, which basically amounts to them being not much more than bolted on. Apparently if you ask, Jayco will say "leave them alone" and Hellwig will tell you to tighten them to 2". Their printed instructions say you can go as tight as 1/4". I adjusted mine down to 1" off the OEM leaf pack (after having to replace one of the U-bolts). DW said she thought the ride was better in the rear of the coach. She also admitted that she's not very good at judging these things. When I make a suspension enhancement or tweak on any of our vehicles, she never admits to feeling a difference.

From the driver's seat, I noticed an improvement. Body roll was less pronounced, and I did indeed feel like the ride was smoother. Not that the ride was ever what I would consider "harsh". I would say it was time well spent getting that right, and this could contribute to better handling in the front end as well.

Sound/temperature insulation in driving compartment: I noticed right away that engine drone under acceleration was MUCH less pronounced. Previously I remember thinking how loud that V-10 can get when you get it spun up; last night it wasn't so bad. Driving down the road, I could hear and understand DW and DS talking in regular tones of voice from the rear where previously I MIGHT have been able to hear mumbling. As far as temperature, I didn't drive enough to evaluate that IMO; I will know more on that during our road trip coming up. I will say that I did not shoot baseline temps around the cab, so any improvement will be subjective, same with sound deadening, I didn't take decibel readings before the mods (I have an app for that).

Overall, across all of the mods I did, I would say there is marked improvement, and for right now, I would say it was money and time well spent. Again, I will refrain from putting my "stamp of approval" on any of this until after our upcoming long road trip since I will have PLENTY of time in the cockpit to give a definite thumbs up or down...

Camper Bob, do you have any updates on your insulation project. Real life experience after your trip. I’m curious!!
We have been traveling almost three weeks now and I keep noticing the heat coming through the floor when we first stop at our sites for the night. Yesterday we traveled from the northern most part of Mississippi down 220 miles on the Natchez Trace Parkway. When we arrived at our destination it was 94 degrees outside. The interior was 74 with only the dash AC running. Hooked up and turned on the roof AC and the temp inside rose to 81 from the heat coming up through the floor and cab. It took about two hours to get it down to a comfortable 76 degrees.
Any insight to your insulation project would be greatly appreciated. Jimmyd

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Jimmyd

Camper Bob, do you have any updates on your insulation project. Real life experience after your trip. I’m curious!!
We have been traveling almost three weeks now and I keep noticing the heat coming through the floor when we first stop at our sites for the night. Yesterday we traveled from the northern most part of Mississippi down 220 miles on the Natchez Trace Parkway. When we arrived at our destination it was 94 degrees outside. The interior was 74 with only the dash AC running. Hooked up and turned on the roof AC and the temp inside rose to 81 from the heat coming up through the floor and cab. It took about two hours to get it down to a comfortable 76 degrees.
Any insight to your insulation project would be greatly appreciated. Jimmyd

I would say it was worth it. It was not as easy as I had hoped, but it did cut down on the heat gain. I still get a little heat from a spot down by my feet through the opening in the engine cowling, but that could be a slight misalignment in the doghouse.

It was more difficult than I thought because the stuff I used is VERY sticky. If I had cut it up into smaller, more manageable pieces, it may have worked better. The doghouse was relatively easy. For the floor: the vinyl carpet was easy to get up, the passenger seat was easy to get out. I own a Jeep Wrangler (YJ), so I have all the Torx bits; the front seat bolts are Torx, sorry I can't remember the size. The driver seat was not so easy, and by the time I got there I was exhausted, so I just went around it.

I did not get a chance to put my bare feet on the floor for a real test, but "seat of the pants" results were positive. I'm not sure the Reflectix under the cabover mattress did much, but I'm okay with that. Things still left to do are to put the Thermo-tec on the doors, and I think I may wrap the exhaust for a short distance behind the headers to reduce the heat transfer. There is currently a thin piece of sheet metal down there that doesn't seem to work very well.

One of the biggest improvements was getting the wires out of the seal around the doghouse. Factory did not secure them up out of the way, so when the doghouse went on, they created gaps. The space between the top of the doghouse and the bottom of the dash put out heat like a heater vent.

Given the cost, I would say it was worthwhile. Again, not scientific, but I noticed a decrease in sound as well as the doghouse not feeling as hot. I will try the barefoot test next time we're out, but that won't be for about another month or so.

[che57vy]

I did the similar to my Greyhawk I even put stick on heat insulation on the underside of the floor above the exhaust and wrapped the exhaust both sides, wife can put her feet on the floor now. before I think it was about to melt the soles. Thought about doing inside of doors was afraid water would get trapped behind insulation causing rust

[Jimmyd]

Thanks Bob, all good information. I guess I will start with the doghouse and front floor when we are back home. The heat transfer through the floor seems like the biggest culprit right now. Even the inside of the cargo cabinets were hot.
Hope the fall weather gets here soon. Heading into Vidalia, La. today where it’s supposed to be 95 degrees. Way too warm for September.
Thanks again for the update. Jimmyd

Bob, I forgot to ask but by any chance do you have a picture of your Helwig springs cranked down. Mine look like they are barely bolted on. About 4” of space but the coach seems to ride well. A little roll in the front which is most likely needing the alignment.

[Jimmyd]

Thanks Che57vy for the info. What insulation did you use on the underside of the cab and what did you wrap the exhaust with?
On our Diesel coaches they had a insulated jacket that fit over the very hot area but that would get destroyed riding under the coach. Please let me know when you get a chance. Jimmyd

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Jimmyd

Thanks Bob, all good information. I guess I will start with the doghouse and front floor when we are back home. The heat transfer through the floor seems like the biggest culprit right now. Even the inside of the cargo cabinets were hot.
Hope the fall weather gets here soon. Heading into Vidalia, La. today where it’s supposed to be 95 degrees. Way too warm for September.
Thanks again for the update. Jimmyd

Bob, I forgot to ask but by any chance do you have a picture of your Helwig springs cranked down. Mine look like they are barely bolted on. About 4” of space but the coach seems to ride well. A little roll in the front which is most likely needing the alignment.

I'm sorry Jimmy, I don't have a picture of that. But you measure from the Hellwig spring where the U-bolt goes over it, down to the top of the leaf pack. If you've never touched them, I'm betting they will measure out between 3.5" and 4". Per the instructions, you can take that measurement down to 1/4"; Hellwig reps have recommended that to be 2". Mine is set at 1".

Originally Posted by Jimmyd

Thanks Che57vy for the info. What insulation did you use on the underside of the cab and what did you wrap the exhaust with?
On our Diesel coaches they had a insulated jacket that fit over the very hot area but that would get destroyed riding under the coach. Please let me know when you get a chance. Jimmyd

I'm going to use one of any number of products you can find all over the 'net for this. There are really too many options; length, width, material, color, brand ... endless options.

I'll probably end up with a kit something like this: https://www.amazon.com/010110-Exhaus...s=exhaust+wrap

I figure I'll get enough length to ensure I can get AT LEAST the area under the cab from as far up on the pipes as I can get, and go as far down the pipe(s) as length allows, spray it all down and call it good.

I'm a little nervous about it though as a lot of people complain of significant amounts of what I'm going to call "fiber sluff". I really don't want to breath that, and I've had fiber insulation get in my skin before and it's NOT fun. Of course, I'll be wearing all the necessary PPE, but still...

[che57vy]

I went to Summit Racing site they had a sheet of stick on heat shield I placed that product directly on the floor (underside) above exhaust then wrapped both sides with exhaust wrap and stainless tie wraps. What a difference.Be sure to wear gloves with that exhaust wrap and mask would help too. I guess I need to add more to dog house. I found after traveling if possible if you open the hood after your set up it keeps a lot of heat from transferring into the coach

[rodpod]

I'm sorry Jimmy, I don't have a picture of that. But you measure from the Hellwig spring where the U-bolt goes over it, down to the top of the leaf pack. If you've never touched them, I'm betting they will measure out between 3.5" and 4". Per the instructions, you can take that measurement down to 1/4"; Hellwig reps have recommended that to be 2". Mine is set at 1".


I just checked mine and the front of the spring toward the engine is just under 4" the back is about 3" same on both sides. How would i go about adjusting them?. will i have to de-load the springs? also the u-bolt is not threaded all the way up. I has no threats about 1 3/4 in from the top where the helper spring rests. I can see how to get 2" from the top but not one. Am i missing something?

[rodpod]

Bob I also have the Greyhawk 29 mv. I like those hatch lifts where did you get them and what length did you use? I had the big hatched dropped on my head that was no fun. would like to prevent that from hppening again