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Old 03-22-2016, 01:14 PM   #11
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Great info! Thanks again. I will try the leveling technique you mention. Most of the racetracks I will stay at will be level to the point of not even needing to lower the jacks at all, but when I do go camping I would like to get the coach level.

Where did you find the locking caps? I really like that idea. Also, thanks for insight into the fuel system.

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Old 03-22-2016, 02:44 PM   #12
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Great info! Thanks again. I will try the leveling technique you mention. Most of the racetracks I will stay at will be level to the point of not even needing to lower the jacks at all, but when I do go camping I would like to get the coach level.

Where did you find the locking caps? I really like that idea. Also, thanks for insight into the fuel system.

This place is a wealth of information
I still put my jacks down even on level concrete pads, it keeps the coach from rocking when someone steps in or out or even moves about the interior. Rock solid with the jacks down and slightly bearing the weight.

Here are the fuel caps I purchased, I got mine from Amazon. Priced individually, but if you buy two they have matching keys:
Robot Check

I also installed a Freight Defense locking DEF cap. I got mine from ebay, it was quite a bit less than the price on the Freight Defense website:
Locking DEF Cap

It's not that I worry about my storage site, it is fenced and locked. But you never know who or where someone may try to tamper with your rig. If they only stole fuel no big deal, I worry more about someone putting something harmful in my tanks!
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Old 03-22-2016, 04:44 PM   #13
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Not sure when the industry changed, I was always lead to believe the jacks should always be deployed before opening slide-outs. This was for several reasons:

Eliminate chassis frame flexing
Eliminate possible binding of the slide-out room

I rarely see the jacks down when the slides are open on dealer lots. Guess I'm stuck with my old ways...
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:07 PM   #14
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Not sure when the industry changed, I was always lead to believe the jacks should always be deployed before opening slide-outs. This was for several reasons:

Eliminate chassis frame flexing
Eliminate possible binding of the slide-out room

I rarely see the jacks down when the slides are open on dealer lots. Guess I'm stuck with my old ways...
I 100% agree, I was instructed when I bought my first MH with slides to level coach then deploy slides. But you are absolutely correct about how they display them on the lot. Hopefully it is fairly level so that the next owner doesn't have any adverse issues!
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:06 AM   #15
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I 100% agree, I was instructed when I bought my first MH with slides to level coach then deploy slides. But you are absolutely correct about how they display them on the lot. Hopefully it is fairly level so that the next owner doesn't have any adverse issues!
That's what my dealer said as well, but one piece of paperwork from Jayco said to extend the slides, then put the jacks down. When we questioned the dealer, he said he had never heard of that being the primary practice, but that he wouldn't tell us to ignore Jayco's instructions. We found another piece of paper later that said to level with the jacks, then deploy the slides. Pretty confusing for a new MH owner..

Plan for the future is to be slides in, level, slides out. To leave, I will retract the slides, then retract the jacks.
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:59 AM   #16
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Our practice is to level the trailer front to back and side to side before deploying any slides.
On leaving we bring all slides in before hooking up.

This is to remove any chance of binding anywhere that add to the strain on the motors.
It has worked for us for many years.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:23 AM   #17
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We had the same issue with the Bigfoot. Our issue was the house battery did not have enough juice to fully extend them and it would stop and two of the four lights would flash.
Have you tried leveling with the generator? This will eliminate the levelers as the problem. Ours worked with it. Next check the load on the house battery. Should check for min and max. We checked ours and the Min dropped to below 9. Indicates battery is NG. We replaced the battery and now the levelers work off the battery.
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:12 AM   #18
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We had the same issue with the Bigfoot. Our issue was the house battery did not have enough juice to fully extend them and it would stop and two of the four lights would flash.
Have you tried leveling with the generator? This will eliminate the levelers as the problem. Ours worked with it. Next check the load on the house battery. Should check for min and max. We checked ours and the Min dropped to below 9. Indicates battery is NG. We replaced the battery and now the levelers work off the battery.
Every time I have tried to level I have been connected to shore power. But I will check the voltage on the batteries under load. They have been sitting on the lot for a while, and who knows how well they were maintained (if at all). Being hooked to shore power should be the same as running on the generator right?
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:56 AM   #19
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Every time I have tried to level I have been connected to shore power. But I will check the voltage on the batteries under load. They have been sitting on the lot for a while, and who knows how well they were maintained (if at all). Being hooked to shore power should be the same as running on the generator right?
I also bought a coach that had sat over a winter and I suspect the coach batteries went dead and froze. That severely damages the plates and kills the batteries. Took me a while to realize the damage and do load tests on them, they failed miserably. I probably could have fought with Jayco to warranty them, but I wanted something better than what they were going to put back in.

Now I have 4 Trojan T-105 6-volt house batteries and Trojan's battery watering system. Hook up bulb pump, stick pickup in gallon of distilled water, pump a few times, and each cell filled just to where they need to be. No overfilling or spills, no mess at all.

I would check the house batteries as suggested by others, might be the root of the jack problem.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:29 AM   #20
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With regards to the water heater; i have found that if you keep the pressure around 50 to 55 the heater works very well and it does not surge. I purchased this water pressure regulator to fix this problem.

https://jet.com/product/detail/71472...8oXBoCdNPw_wcB

As for towing a box trailer; I have a car hauler as well and I found a used Trailer Toad (2016 Trailer Toad 3500 HD) and i am very happy with it. it transfers the tongue weight to the toad so the RV is just towing not supporting the weight. You should be mindful of the over hang from the axle to the hitch and the stress on the RV frame that comes from towing a car hauler.

Fuel: I purchased a Scan D to monitor my fuel status.
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