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Old 03-23-2016, 11:28 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
I also bought a coach that had sat over a winter and I suspect the coach batteries went dead and froze. That severely damages the plates and kills the batteries. Took me a while to realize the damage and do load tests on them, they failed miserably. I probably could have fought with Jayco to warranty them, but I wanted something better than what they were going to put back in.

Now I have 4 Trojan T-105 6-volt house batteries and Trojan's battery watering system. Hook up bulb pump, stick pickup in gallon of distilled water, pump a few times, and each cell filled just to where they need to be. No overfilling or spills, no mess at all.

I would check the house batteries as suggested by others, might be the root of the jack problem.
My MH sat in Orlando, so I think there is little chance of them freezing in that weather, but still I will check on them with some load tests.

Speaking of freezing, how do I keep the water from freezing in the winter? MD can get pretty cold, and temps regularly dip into the teens and 20's for days on end.

Where did you find the Trojan battery setup? Was it something you installed on your own? If mine are bad, I may talk with Jayco and see about a warranty replacement, but I am always interested in upgrades.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:39 AM   #22
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With regards to the water heater; i have found that if you keep the pressure around 50 to 55 the heater works very well and it does not surge. I purchased this water pressure regulator to fix this problem.

https://jet.com/product/detail/71472...8oXBoCdNPw_wcB

As for towing a box trailer; I have a car hauler as well and I found a used Trailer Toad (2016 Trailer Toad 3500 HD) and i am very happy with it. it transfers the tongue weight to the toad so the RV is just towing not supporting the weight. You should be mindful of the over hang from the axle to the hitch and the stress on the RV frame that comes from towing a car hauler.

Fuel: I purchased a Scan D to monitor my fuel status.
Great info about the pressure. I have a regulator now, but not adjustable. It sets it around 40ish PSI. Have you had any luck running off the water pump? Does anyone know pressure the water pump works at? I will be dry camping probably 75% of the time.

I have looked into the trailer toad. I think it would work well, but I just dont have the cash right now to get a toad right now. I do have a friend of mine who is a professional fabricator coming over this weekend to reinforce the hitch to the frame for additional support.

What is a ScanD? I think I found something online, but I want to make sure I'm looking at the right thing. ScanGaugeD - Advanced J1939 & J1708 compatible Vehicle Monitor for Diesel Pusher Vehicles : Linear Logic

If this is it, I like what it seems to do. I want to be able to monitor the trans temperature towing at the 33K weight or above all the time. Plus all the other monitors it seems to come with. For $170 it comes with all that monitoring? Was it easy to install?
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:07 PM   #23
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Yes that is the ScanGauge D I have. it is very easy to install. It also allows you to add to what you want to monitor. When I get home I will post a pic.

I found the toad i have for 1500.
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:18 PM   #24
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I also replaced my "Harris" batteries with interstate group 27's and bought two of these watering systems. So easy to check and fill.

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Old 03-23-2016, 12:25 PM   #25
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Best decision I made after buying a MH was to join this forum. Thank you all for help. I've learned more in the last 3 days then I think I would have in 3 months!

I will keep an eye out for a used Toad. For $1,500 it's really an awesome tool to relieve the stress.

Looking forward to the Scan D pics. I think I will have one on order by tomorrow.
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Old 03-23-2016, 06:57 PM   #26
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My MH sat in Orlando, so I think there is little chance of them freezing in that weather, but still I will check on them with some load tests.

Speaking of freezing, how do I keep the water from freezing in the winter? MD can get pretty cold, and temps regularly dip into the teens and 20's for days on end.

Where did you find the Trojan battery setup? Was it something you installed on your own? If mine are bad, I may talk with Jayco and see about a warranty replacement, but I am always interested in upgrades.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!
As far as sub-freezing weather, if the coach will not be in use it needs to have the plumbing winterized. Two schools of thought there; purging the water system with air to remove all water, and/or replacing the water with RV (non-toxic) antifreeze. I do both, blow everything out with air first and then fill the plumbing with antifreeze. Water heaters depend on the type. Most tank-style units are "bypassed" with all the water drained and the tank drain left open. Tankless units like the Girard you have hold very little water and Girard says it is okay to fill them with antifreeze over a winter. You also need to make sure the drain traps all have antifreeze in them to keep the traps from freezing. I also make sure the black and gray tanks have about 1/2-gallon of antifreeze in them so that it collects near the outlet valves in case any latent water was laying there. Some owners leave their tank valves wide open during the winter. Loads of resources online regarding winterizing/dewinterizing.

If the coach is in use below freezing you need to keep the furnace running. Our Senecas have heat ducted to the underbelly to keep the plumbing and tanks liquid. Just running space heaters in the coach will not do, the furnace must run to blow heat below. But there is a limit, extreme cold will still cause freezing unless even more precautions ($$$) are taken.

As far as the Trojan batteries, a local battery supplier near me takes care of many of the golf courses in my area and gets new pallet loads of the T-105 batteries almost weekly. They are very common in electric golf carts. I did install them myself, I had to reconfigure the battery wiring since the original 12-volt batteries are all wired in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative). The T105s are 6-volt and so a pair has to be wired in series (positive to negative to achieve 12-volts), but then each set of "paired" batteries is wired in parallel to the other pair. The Trojans are true "deep-cycle" batteries as compared to the "dual-purpose" batteries we get stock. They have much heavier plates for longer life and more "charge-discharge" cycles. But they fit in my battery tray without modification, they are just a bit taller. I would not recommend someone converting to 6-volts if they are not very confident in their electrical skills. Hook it up wrong and the results could be disastrous to the rig and dangerous to the mechanic. Not trying to discourage progress, but I was a full-time firefighter for 33+years (paramedic for 20+) and I saw personally what can happen.

You will find people on both sides of the 12-volt/6-volt battery debate, adamant in their choice. Many campers have 12-volt batteries that serve them very well for years. I did in my 2 prior Class C units. Others swear by the 6-volt route for longest battery life and best performance. Overall I believe the most important things one can do is keep your batteries maintained, and don't over-discharge them. That will reduce their life significantly. Overcharging and boiling the electrolyte out is another killer, as is allowing them to totally discharge where they then will freeze in cold temperatures.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:33 PM   #27
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Looking forward to the Scan D pics. I think I will have one on order by tomorrow.
Here is a picture of mine, mounted to the headliner just to the left of the little cubbyhole above driver. I just glance up to see what it is reading. Display can be configured to show a multitude of readings, 4 at a time as you can see. In the picture of mine I am watching voltage, turbo boost, water temperature, and average fuel mileage. Yes, I actually can get over 11 mpg if I keep my foot out of it and around 60mph!

I love mine and as said earlier by other owners very easy to install. Where you mount it is up to you, I chose my location up high and had to fabricate a small mount actually bolted through the headliner. The display then is affixed to the mount with 3M Dual Lock adhesive strips so I can pop out the display when unit is stored. I use that stuff for everything! The cable goes down inside the windshield pillar trim to the diagnostic connector down under the dash to the left of the steering column.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:48 AM   #28
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RobbyR, thanks for all the help and advice.

For the ScanD, do you know if Seneca's send Trans Fluid Temp? In other words, does it actually supply a reading to the ScanD? Some reviews I have seen said that many trucks/rv's do not send Trans Temp. It's something I want to keep an eye on with my setup, since towing is hardest on a transmission in my opinion.

I like the way yours setup, and I will probably steal your idea as my own. For the setup of the ScanD, did you put the fuel tank capacity as 74? It seems, by my reading around through some threads, that there is some disagreement as to how much fuel you can actually get in the fuel tanks due to their round shape and the location of the filler neck. I am thinking of setting mine to 60 gallon capacity to leave some buffer.
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Old 03-24-2016, 08:13 AM   #29
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For the ScanD, do you know if Seneca's send Trans Fluid Temp? In other words, does it actually supply a reading to the ScanD? Some reviews I have seen said that many trucks/rv's do not send Trans Temp. It's something I want to keep an eye on with my setup, since towing is hardest on a transmission in my opinion.
Mine does have transmission fluid temp as a monitored parameter. When I am in hilly country towing my SUV I usually have it displayed. Mine has never gone above 170 that I can recall. But it does start out at ambient, so it does read an increase in something as things work and heat up.

I also have my tank size set smaller but since my fuel sender seems better than some, I drive more paying attention to that.

It would be nice to know if the fuel tank manufacturer considers the 34 and 40 gallon ratings to be usable or ultimate capacity. Inquiring minds want to know!
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:10 PM   #30
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Great news about the trans temp on the Scan D.

This forum is great at spending my money. TPMS, Voltage Regulators, ScanD, Batteries, etc, etc, etc. But it's all great info, and I am just trying to guard against being stranded due to unpreparedness.

Thanks again to all for the help and advice.
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