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Old 03-28-2016, 10:21 AM   #41
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After I replied I remembered something else. According to other Seneca owners who tow trailers, we do have an electric brake controller pigtail under the dash making the controller installation that much easier.

I have had my dash apart numerous times for other mods, but never looked for the harness since I don't tow a trailer. But if you search the forum you may find a thread about it.
I found the pigtail. Actually, it was just 5 wires left unconnected that were taped into another wiring harness. Spent some time last night determining which wires I was going to need and what colors do what. Brake controller only uses 4 wires, so I needed to find which was the extra. Got the mapped out. Red = 12V, White = Ground, Red/White Striped = Brake Light(pedal pressed), Blue = Brake Power Application. I had two blue wires, so I stripped one back a bit, put the 12V power wire to it, and went back to the plug on the back to see if it was reading 12V, and turns out it was, so I had guessed right. Have no idea what the second blue wire might be for. Now the only problem I have is that my butt connectors for the brake controller are too small of a gauge. The wires from the RV are like 8 or 10 gauge wires, and butt connectors are only good for 14-18. This one I can figure out I'm sure, even if I have to solder them together.

Thanks again for all the insight. ScanD is due to arrive tomorrow. Ready to hook that up. Towing from MD to NC Thursday, want to be prepared for my trip.
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Old 03-30-2016, 02:04 PM   #42
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My fuel gauge seems more accurate than some other Seneca owner's experiences, I don't know if a Freightliner dealer would address this as a warranty issue. Worth a shot I suppose.
I will let you know. I have an appt for my rig at Freightliner the first week of May to get the passenger window switch replaced and fix the fuel gauge issue. When we returned this weekend from a short trip to Virginia Beach, I drove with the gauge on E and the red light on for over an hour. When I stopped to fill the tank the rig only took 48 gallons. That's still 1/3 left in the tanks, the gauge should not have been on E for over an hour. LOL
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Old 03-30-2016, 02:14 PM   #43
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I guess it is better to underestimate remaining fuel than the other way! But if my rig is any proof, the gauge can work better than what you are experiencing. Hopefully Freightliner will help.

Post back the results after you visit them so we can follow your progress please! May help others with similar issues.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:38 PM   #44
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ScanD is due to arrive tomorrow. Ready to hook that up.
You mentioned you may install the ScanGauge where I did. I snapped a picture of my mount showing the bracket and how it is bolted through the headliner and attached with the 3M strips. The bracket is steel bent into a "J" shape. There are large washers on the backside to keep things stable. So far I am very pleased.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:03 PM   #45
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You mentioned you may install the ScanGauge where I did. I snapped a picture of my mount showing the bracket and how it is bolted through the headliner and attached with the 3M strips. The bracket is steel bent into a "J" shape. There are large washers on the backside to keep things stable. So far I am very pleased.
That's awesome. I actually think I have a bracket very close to that I use for my racecar. I can make it work.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:46 PM   #46
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Concerning the microwave, a google search will reveal past recalls for starting themselves. Not saying yours is under any recall, but the obvious issues with a household product bouncing down the road is proven.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:58 PM   #47
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Concerning the microwave, a google search will reveal past recalls for starting themselves. Not saying yours is under any recall, but the obvious issues with a household product bouncing down the road is proven.
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So this evening, I go out to move my RV, and as soon as I unplug the 50A shore power, my microwave turns off
His microwave turned off, not on and that was because he unplugged the shore power. There have been just as many issues with RV specific appliances as well.
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Old 04-01-2016, 06:41 AM   #48
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His microwave turned off, not on and that was because he unplugged the shore power. There have been just as many issues with RV specific appliances as well.
That's correct. It was my fault. I didn't have the inverter on, so when I unplugged from shore power, the microwave turned off.

Problem I am having now is, when using the inverter for power, the microwave cycles power about every 5 seconds. It's not turning "on", as in running, but the clock flashes and resets as if someone has unplugged and then immediately replugged it back in. However, simply opening the door resolves this issue. It also runs completely fine on the inverter when trying to cook with it. On shore or generator power, the power cycling problem ceases.

So we are now unplugging the microwave when not in use when the inverter is supplying power. The cycling of power can't be good for it, and the beeping is driving us insane.
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Old 04-01-2016, 07:02 AM   #49
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Problem I am having now is, when using the inverter for power, the microwave cycles power about every 5 seconds. It's not turning "on", as in running, but the clock flashes and resets as if someone has unplugged and then immediately replugged it back in.
Does the TV work OK?

Sounds like the frequency may be off in the inverter, your not getting a clean 50/60 cycles.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:20 AM   #50
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Never seen that behavior; fine on generator and shore power but cycles on inverter. But apparently it will cook on the inverter! Since cooking draws way more amps than the microwave in a standby mode, the batteries must be holding up fairly well under load.

I agree with Grumpy, may be something off with the frequency or voltage when the inverter is very lightly loaded. I wonder what the power would look like on an oscilloscope.

And what, if anything, does the control panel display of the inverter show when the micro is cycling? Maybe it could offer a clue.
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