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Old 04-01-2016, 08:34 AM   #51
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How about the operation of other electronic appliances. The sine wave generated can play havoc with high tech electronics which believe it or not includes a microwave.
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:05 AM   #52
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I actually haven't used anything yet while running on the inverter. What is powered by the inverter? I know some things are not on that circuit. Is the main TV on it? Antenna? Outside TV, etc? That way I know what to check to make sure stuff is working.

On the inverter panel, every time the microwave cycles it shows a sharp drop in volts from the battery momentarily (12.3ish down to 11.5 or so) but then it bounces right back.

My trip to NC was canceled due to weather, but I am going to the MH tonight to finish up the Trailer Brake Controller, install my ScanGaugeD, and do a couple other odds and ends. I will try to take some photos or video and see if I can figure out what/how to post it.

Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:06 AM   #53
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How about the operation of other electronic appliances. The sine wave generated can play havoc with high tech electronics which believe it or not includes a microwave.
Norty1 is correct about "bad" current causing problems. Saw that on my last Class C when the voltage regulator went bad on my Generac!

On my Seneca the only other items that run off the inverter circuits are the front bunk and rear bedroom TVs. I suspect his setup is the same. The inverter itself has another transfer switch that defaults to outside line voltage (when present) when plugged in or running generator. But I doubt it would be cutting in and out since the OP said shorepower was disconnected. And the microwave was working when cooking.

I too wonder what the TVs do when solely on the inverter, but at this point I don't know that I recommend an experiment since it might fry them!
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:32 AM   #54
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I actually haven't used anything yet while running on the inverter. What is powered by the inverter? I know some things are not on that circuit. Is the main TV on it? Antenna? Outside TV, etc? That way I know what to check to make sure stuff is working.

On the inverter panel, every time the microwave cycles it shows a sharp drop in volts from the battery momentarily (12.3ish down to 11.5 or so) but then it bounces right back.
On my 2014 the only inverter-fed devices are the microwave and two of my three televisions. Outside TV not on inverter circuits.

The inverter output has a sub-panel with three breakers, Main, Microwave, and Television. Main is the "line in" breaker feeding the other two breakers in this panel. This sub-panel gets its power from the inverter transfer switch which defaults to outside power from the shorepower cord or the generator if either is present. The inverter will supply the power if neither of those is present and the inverter is switched on. If you are plugged in or running the generator, even if the inverter is "on" you are actually using outside power and the inverter is just sitting idle.

The TV antenna booster and satellite dish use 12-volts to operate. If you have a satellite receiver box or a DVD/Blu-Ray player you have to make sure they are plugged into the same outlet as the TV or they won't have power when on the inverter.

Everything else that requires line voltage to operate must have shorepower or generator power to operate. This includes the refrigerator (on AC), air conditioners, all other 110-volt outlets, etc.

Since the inverter will allow the microwave to cook, what does the voltage show when actually cooking? If the batteries were actually bad, I doubt it would continue to operate. My batteries were bad, and the inverter would cut out when I tried to operate the microwave. But they were good enough to keep the micro clock running when I wasn't cooking. Somewhat opposite of what you are experiencing.
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Old 04-01-2016, 07:41 PM   #55
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I found the pigtail. Actually, it was just 5 wires left unconnected that were taped into another wiring harness. Spent some time last night determining which wires I was going to need and what colors do what. Brake controller only uses 4 wires, so I needed to find which was the extra. Got the mapped out. Red = 12V, White = Ground, Red/White Striped = Brake Light(pedal pressed), Blue = Brake Power Application. I had two blue wires, so I stripped one back a bit, put the 12V power wire to it, and went back to the plug on the back to see if it was reading 12V, and turns out it was, so I had guessed right. Have no idea what the second blue wire might be for. Now the only problem I have is that my butt connectors for the brake controller are too small of a gauge. The wires from the RV are like 8 or 10 gauge wires, and butt connectors are only good for 14-18. This one I can figure out I'm sure, even if I have to solder them together.

Thanks again for all the insight. ScanD is due to arrive tomorrow. Ready to hook that up. Towing from MD to NC Thursday, want to be prepared for my trip.
SuddenRush,

I am doing my brake controller this weekend. I also found the pigtail, but my 2 8AWG wires were marked LT and LT A see the attached photo. Were either one of your wires marked? You already saved me a ton of time by identifying the other 3, so if not no biggy.

Are you at Budd's Creek this weekend?

Thanks

Ted
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Old 04-02-2016, 07:08 PM   #56
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However, after the inverter was turned on, the microwave kept cycling power like every 5 seconds. I actually think the microwave may be faulty in this way only. I cycled the breaker for it. Inverter shows good voltage, batteries show good voltage when checked with a meter. Microwave works perfectly fine on the inverter for cooking. But if left idle (door closed, not in use) with the inverter on, it keeps cycling power. Just opening the door stops that. So we just unplugged it when the inverter was on to keep the beeping from driving us nuts. When we needed it, we plugged it back in and all went well.
I had a similar problem and found that my inverter had somehow changed to "power save mode". In this mode, it shuts itself off if it doesn't detect a significant load in a certain period of time and the microwave at idle apparently doesn't draw enough juice. To flip it to normal operation, turn the inverter on and, when you see the power save mode come up, immediately flip the inverter off and back on.

You can change it back to power save mode the same way.
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:44 AM   #57
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Let me ask this question since I haven't taken my Seneca out yet to prove it. Will the alternator keep the batteries up if driving and the TV and satellite on. I'm asking this in anticipation of the grandbabies and traveling. I'm also wondering how long the batteries will last just running on the inverter and the engine off. I know it depends on the condition of your batteries.
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:47 AM   #58
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Let me ask this question since I haven't taken my Seneca out yet to prove it. Will the alternator keep the batteries up if driving and the TV and satellite on. I'm asking this in anticipation of the grandbabies and traveling. I'm also wondering how long the batteries will last just running on the inverter and the engine off. I know it depends on the condition of your batteries.
You should not have any difficulties keeping the TV running while driving. I have done it many times to keep my grandsons occupied on the road. I don't use my satellite dish (yet) but do run a Blu-Ray player off the inverter while driving. Batteries always stay up while driving since this is a very minimal draw, even on the inverter. The only large-draw item on my inverter is the microwave and we have cooked pot pies going down the road on convection and still the batteries were kept fully charged.

Have you modified your TV outlet to allow it to work while driving? Most Jayco motorhomes from the factory have a cutout that keeps the TV from working while driving. Many threads here in the forum to tell you how to bypass that function if you have not already done so. Took me all of 5 minutes to do it when I first got my unit. Seems somewhat ridiculous since there is no way for the driver to see the bunk TV regardless of how they might contort themselves!

As far as how long the batteries will last it is totally dependent on your overall electrical draw. If the furnace running it is a real amperage hog. Is the family showering off the water tank using the pump continuously? Even though we have LED lights, are you burning a lot of them? Are you using the convection microwave oven? That is another big consumer of battery power.

I have stayed several times where we were without an electric hookup, but I was able to run the generator for several hours a day. That was enough to top them off and get us through the night where power usage is minimal. Remember you don't want to run your batteries below about 50% lest you cause them irreparable harm. So without knowing your expected electrical usage it is difficult to give you a reasonable estimate.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:19 AM   #59
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SuddenRush,

I am doing my brake controller this weekend. I also found the pigtail, but my 2 8AWG wires were marked LT and LT A see the attached photo. Were either one of your wires marked? You already saved me a ton of time by identifying the other 3, so if not no biggy.

Are you at Budd's Creek this weekend?

Thanks

Ted
Hey Ted,

My two blue's were marked slightly differently. One just had an "A" on it. That was the one that was for brake application power to the trailer. So I am assuming the one you had marked with LT A would be the correct one. I never even checked the second one, it's still heat shrinked from the factory.

To be clear, I didn't get to race this weekend unfortunately. Wind and rain kept me from going. So as of right now, I have wired up the controller, but haven't been able to check that it actually works on the trailer. I checked back at the plug by the hitch and everything seemed to be showing voltages as appropriate, but the final test hasn't yet been completed.

And yes, if I had raced, it would have been at Budds Creek. I'm there pretty much anytime a racecar is going down the track. I have a mildly severe obsession with drag racing!
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:26 AM   #60
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I had a similar problem and found that my inverter had somehow changed to "power save mode". In this mode, it shuts itself off if it doesn't detect a significant load in a certain period of time and the microwave at idle apparently doesn't draw enough juice. To flip it to normal operation, turn the inverter on and, when you see the power save mode come up, immediately flip the inverter off and back on.

You can change it back to power save mode the same way.
Hopefully this is the solution! Mine is Power Save mode, I noticed that the other night. I will try to get it out of power save mode by flipping it off and back on like you mentioned.

I didn't mess with any of the TV's, looking at the potential damage that could be done if I was having a significant electrical issue. So, I will disconnect from shore power, get the inverter into a normal operation mode, and see if that fixes the problem.

Unfortunately, I probably won't get to the MH until this weekend, so now I have to wait all week to see if this fixes that problem!

Great tip! Thanks!
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