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Old 04-04-2016, 02:51 PM   #61
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Has anyone here added valve stem extensions to the rear wheels on their Seneca? If so, what brand/style did you use? Where did you get them? There seem to be a ton of options out there, but I am trying to figure out what works best with these wheels.
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:40 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by SuddenRush View Post
Has anyone here added valve stem extensions to the rear wheels on their Seneca? If so, what brand/style did you use? Where did you get them? There seem to be a ton of options out there, but I am trying to figure out what works best with these wheels.
Although getting to the rear valve stems isn't "easy", believe it or not I have better access on the Seneca than I did on my 2 previous Ford-based Class C motorhomes. Bigger is better! I had stainless braided hose extensions on those units that never held up the way I hoped they would. Twice the bracket that located the extension to the center part of the wheel liner broke its rivets thereby allowing the hose to flail around and beat the wheel liner significantly. That was on an easy-to-replace stainless liner, not our expensive Alcoa wheels. And I had several hoses start leaking due to the extreme bending they had to do to get out into the open.

There are a variety of solid extensions out there in various lengths, but I was told that on our 22.5" wheels any extension more than a couple of inches long should be supported to prevent any "flexing" due to centrifugal force. There are rubber inserts for the wheel holes that has a small hole in the center for the extension to pass through (see pic below). That supposedly keeps them from snapping the valve stem off over time.

I have elected to do without extensions and here is how I manage checking and airing. I do have the Tireminder TPMS, and I have found it to be pretty close. But before any journey I do remove the sensors and air things up. The inner dual's stem faces outward, the outer wheel's face inward. I move the MH so they are relatively horizontal. Then I can get down on the driveway and reach in between the tires and unscrew the sensors. Both my air chuck and digital gauge have long straight stems that then allow me to check and inflate the tires easily. Once done, back on the ground to reinstall the sensors.

If there is a better way for our rigs out there I would consider it, laying on the ground is less and less tolerable as I get older!
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:15 PM   #63
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The model of your Alcoa wheels should be stamped on them. Get that info and go to the Alcoa wheels website and look at their accessory products catalog. Call the 8xx phone number you will find on their site and get the Alcoa extension and stabilizer (big rubber grommet thingy) for your wheels. It's very important that you get the correct ones…not all stabilizers are the same. A DP owner was complaining about how his were worthless and it was obvious that someone sold him whatever they had. Mine fit perfectly and the hole is in the correct place.
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:34 AM   #64
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Great info as usual! Thanks guys!

Want to get a TPMS but funds don't allow it at the moment. I'd want to get the big system that can monitor the 6 Seneca pressures and the 6 pressures from my triple axle trailer. So until I have the money saved up, I'm gonna have to do it the old fashioned way.

Great info about finding the supports directly from Alcoa! I think that's what I am going to do.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:27 AM   #65
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Thanks Robb for the traveling info. And yes, I found the outlet that powers the TV and then jumps to the outlets above the TV for the bluray and satellite box. I took a chapter from bomb demolition which is "always cut the RED wire"! All works now with the engine running! And your right, I would be up in the trees if I tried to watch the front TV while going down the road!
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:49 AM   #66
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Want to get a TPMS but funds don't allow it at the moment. I'd want to get the big system that can monitor the 6 Seneca pressures and the 6 pressures from my triple axle trailer. So until I have the money saved up, I'm gonna have to do it the old fashioned way.
When you are ready to get TPMS, I can attest that the TireMinder system will let you display your combo's tire setup easily. It can do 22 total tires, and the ones you don't "program" don't show up on the monitoring screen. So you would have your front singles, your rear duals, and then the 3 trailer singles per side. And obviously you can set different pressure alarms for each position since they won't all run with the same pressures. I also like TireMinder's easy-to-use "disconnect" mode which allows you to quickly disconnect the motorhomes tires from the towed vehicles when you are not towing the trailer. When you just are running with the coach you don't get errors for trailer tires that are not there! On my last Class C I had a real spare tire and had a sensor on it too so I could make sure it was okay. Easy to forget it tucked up under the trailer hitch! So if you have a spare tire (or 2) on your trailer you could even do something like that and program it somewhere on the display.

In a long coach such as our Senecas, and a long trailer like you have, you will need the booster to assure adequate signal strength. I was able to install mine in the very back of the coach under the compartment where my washer/dryer will go. I had access to lots of "always hot" 12-volt wires and grounds in the immediate area. I have never had signal "dropout" difficulties installed there.
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:29 PM   #67
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When you are ready to get TPMS, I can attest that the TireMinder system will let you display your combo's tire setup easily. It can do 22 total tires, and the ones you don't "program" don't show up on the monitoring screen. So you would have your front singles, your rear duals, and then the 3 trailer singles per side. And obviously you can set different pressure alarms for each position since they won't all run with the same pressures. I also like TireMinder's easy-to-use "disconnect" mode which allows you to quickly disconnect the motorhomes tires from the towed vehicles when you are not towing the trailer. When you just are running with the coach you don't get errors for trailer tires that are not there! On my last Class C I had a real spare tire and had a sensor on it too so I could make sure it was okay. Easy to forget it tucked up under the trailer hitch! So if you have a spare tire (or 2) on your trailer you could even do something like that and program it somewhere on the display.

In a long coach such as our Senecas, and a long trailer like you have, you will need the booster to assure adequate signal strength. I was able to install mine in the very back of the coach under the compartment where my washer/dryer will go. I had access to lots of "always hot" 12-volt wires and grounds in the immediate area. I have never had signal "dropout" difficulties installed there.
System sounds exactly like what I am looking for. I have 2 spares for the trailer, so it would be good just to know they are full of air as well. Luckily I have an air compressor in the trailer for racing, so if anything is low, I can fill up fairly easily. 22 tire capacity, that's one hell of a setup! Also, great info about the booster. I will keep that in mind.

Speaking of air compressors, is there a place to jack into the air compressor on the Seneca itself? My compressor in the trailer only fills to 120psi and is only a 3 gallon pancake style, so filling large tires to 100+ psi could be quite tedious. I meant to ask about this at the dealership and forgot all about it.
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:42 PM   #68
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Speaking of air compressors, is there a place to jack into the air compressor on the Seneca itself? My compressor in the trailer only fills to 120psi and is only a 3 gallon pancake style, so filling large tires to 100+ psi could be quite tedious. I meant to ask about this at the dealership and forgot all about it.
A good question without an answer (yet). I have posted on another thread about adding air horns since our since our electric horns are a joke, but no one has responded that they had it done by tying into chassis air. There was a member with a new air brake-equipped Seneca who had Freightliner install a "real" air dryer since supposedly even the new chassis lack one. I found it hard to believe since dry air is critical to safe functioning and long-term reliability of the various air brake components. Not as big a deal on my coach with hydraulic brakes since the only things the air operates is the rear suspension, parking brake, and the radiator fan clutch. Your 2015 also has hydraulic brakes, correct? I think the full air brakes did not appear until 2016.

But real horns and an inflator connection would be nice!
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Old 04-05-2016, 07:44 PM   #69
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I installed a set of 150 decibel triple trumpet compact train air horns. I was planning on using one of the bungs with a pug installed in the front air tank, but as I was tracing the air lines I found a 1 into 2 air line connection amidships with a plug in it. I simply removed the plug and ran the air line for the horns. I mounted the horns on the frame in some existing holes just in front of the passenger front tire. The horns are protected by the bumper up front and are at the perfect level to wake up anyone texting while driving next to me. :-)

The first picture is the horns, the second picture is where the 1 into 2 connection is and the third is just another picture of the front air tank and the location (the red Firestone air in is the one that I used).

I have all the fittings required to add a service hose to the front tank, but I just haven't had time to get it done. There is a plugged bung on the tank which I intend to use.

Ted
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:02 PM   #70
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Wow, thanks Ted!

You have a 2016 with air brakes I believe, but since I have hydraulic brakes my air system may be different. But I will climb under my unit when Ohio warms up enough I am willing to go out there!

Do you trigger the air horns from the electric horn circuit or something separate?
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