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05-03-2021, 05:52 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Cali
Posts: 111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2naEagle
When I put the bigger front sway bar on the redhawk 24b I had problems also. The threads crossed on me. I was able to retap the threads and make it work.
On the Greyhawk 29MV I decided I was not going to do that again. I put Sumosprings on the front instead of the bigger sway bar. I have no complaints, they seem to be doing good.
I was going to put the Roadmaster Steering stabilizer on but was unable to find one in stock. So I decided to go with Save T Plus. When I found out you had to remove the sway bar bracket I returned the mountain bracket and got the Roadmaster bracket. So far it is working good.
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Thank god u told me this as i also have a safe t plus coming so i now need the roadmaster bracket, thanks for this i would have been even more mad
Was it the rbk24 bracket set up u used?
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05-03-2021, 07:54 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Hackettstown
Posts: 5
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05-04-2021, 03:37 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: New Freedom, PA
Posts: 791
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__________________
Ron K3HIL Amateur Extra
Retired
2016 Greyhawk 29MV
2000 Jeep Sahara
"Any advice I give or facts I present are valid to the best of my knowledge,
but I am not responsible if you follow it and you **** your **** up."
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05-08-2021, 06:04 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Try soaking it in Penetrating oil over nighties heat and an easy-out. It’s possible to not have to make new threads, just chase the old ones.
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05-09-2021, 05:46 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Athens
Posts: 239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2048b
many thanks for this detailed reply...i have a fastenal local, went there, and called them, they wont sell to me unless i have someone contracted with them....
went by oreilly, they were lost....autozone, same thing, napa, not a clue hahaha, i went by 1 auto body shop/mechanic shop, they only do exhaust now.... and everyone else doesn't have the space...
so both bolts taken out were a big 14-2.0 and a 10-1.5 both metric, im having a hard time finding a rivet nut big enough for the main big bolts tbh.... the smaller one no prob...
i may have to just get that bumper removed and get a long wrench in there to connect nuts, because no one around me has any idea what im talking about when i say rivet nut....
thanks i will search thru both oreilly link and amazon links, im just stuck because i dont see a rivet nut big enough for the bigger bolts...
going to home depot to ask if they have any, and tractor supply maybe?
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Try McMaster Carr and Grainger they are an industrial supply houses that pretty much have everything.
__________________
TnHiker
2018 Jayco Eagle HT 29.5 FBDS: GY Tire Upgrade, Sani-Con, 2 AC's, Tankless WH, Auto level, One Control, RV-CO Port-A-Step
2010 Jayco Eagle Super Lite 30.5 DBSA (Sold 2018)
1998 HitchHiker II 31 RLBG (Sold 2012)
2002 Ford F350 7.3L Turbo, Crew Cab, DRW, 4:10 (Mint, Garage Queen)
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05-09-2021, 08:02 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: SOUTH BELOIT
Posts: 876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2048b
many thanks for this detailed reply...i have a fastenal local, went there, and called them, they wont sell to me unless i have someone contracted with them....
went by oreilly, they were lost....autozone, same thing, napa, not a clue hahaha, i went by 1 auto body shop/mechanic shop, they only do exhaust now.... and everyone else doesn't have the space...
so both bolts taken out were a big 14-2.0 and a 10-1.5 both metric, im having a hard time finding a rivet nut big enough for the main big bolts tbh.... the smaller one no prob...
i may have to just get that bumper removed and get a long wrench in there to connect nuts, because no one around me has any idea what im talking about when i say rivet nut....
thanks i will search thru both oreilly link and amazon links, im just stuck because i dont see a rivet nut big enough for the bigger bolts...
going to home depot to ask if they have any, and tractor supply maybe?
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Amazon has them and they don't need to be metric if you can't find them just use SAE like a 1/2 inch
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05-10-2021, 12:31 PM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Charleston
Posts: 36
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Ha
Quote:
Originally Posted by J2048b
21 years of aircraft maintenance with the United States Air Force....that there answers your question...
i never even got to that part of this installation...
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Great restrained response.. amazing how there’s always one in the crowd…
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05-10-2021, 12:32 PM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Charleston
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Johnson
Amazon has them and they don't need to be metric if you can't find them just use SAE like a 1/2 inch
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Northern Tool also has them, if in your area…
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05-10-2021, 12:47 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,573
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Any thoughts on how to prevent this from happening. I plan to install a heavier sway bar soon, and I will plan to spray some penetrating oil over the course of a few days beforehand, any other thoughts? Thanks, ~CA
__________________
2010 GreyHawk 31SS
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05-10-2021, 01:49 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigav
Any thoughts on how to prevent this from happening. I plan to install a heavier sway bar soon, and I will plan to spray some penetrating oil over the course of a few days beforehand, any other thoughts? Thanks, ~CA
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I think it's a gamble. Some get them not to break, others aren't so lucky.
My rig was relatively new when I was installing, so my bolts came out relatively easy. Your rig is older, so you may not be quite so lucky.
I think your penetrating oil idea is sound, especially for removal. But during installation, even being careful, you can strip some of those out easily that are just threaded with self-tappers into the frame.
My best advice is be careful, but be ready for it. Take a look at the bolts you'll have to remove and mentally run through what you'll do if one breaks. Get a few riv-nuts/bolts/washers ahead of time. They're not overly expensive, and you never know when you might need one, so they're kind of handy to have around anyway even if you don't need them on THIS install. If you have thread chaser or broken bolt removal tools, have them handy as well.
Best case scenario, everything comes out and goes back in clean. Worst case (if you're prepared), the project takes a little longer than expected.
I absolutely LOATHE having to stop mid-project and make a parts/tool run...
__________________
-2018 Greyhawk 29MV
-2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JLU) (Primary Toad)
-1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ (Secondary Toad)
-2014 Jay Flight 28BHBE & Ram 2500 6.4L CC 4x4 (sold)
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05-10-2021, 01:59 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: --
Posts: 2,392
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The Sumos seem to be a safer bet to me in retrospect. Get a little impact cushioning and they would help some w/ the lean.
I'm going to install a pair on the front of my Precept when it comes in. I figure I'll supplement the existing sway (though I've also read Ford made improvements to the suspension components in the F53 for 2020; I wonder if that carried down to the E450?).
__________________
2023 Ford F-150 XLT SCREW 3.5EB (Max Tow Pkg., Black Appearance Pkg., Bed Utility Pkg.)
1727 Payload / 4150 RAWR
On the sidelines taking it all in.
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05-10-2021, 03:13 PM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 93
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I changed out my sway bar a while ago with the big 1 3/8” diameter bar from Roadmaster and the install worked out great. The only trouble I had was getting out the larger bolts because of how much locktite Ford had put on the bolts. The smaller bolts weren’t even tight.
Yesterday I changed to double steering stabilizers. I made new brackets that fit above the sway bar attachment points. Had to make a center bracket too so it would accommodate both of the dampener ends. Got the angle bends set right so everything lined up as it should. O’reileys had the dampeners in stock, to my surprise. I have been trying to find a Roadmaster Reflex Stabilizer but Roadmaster said it would be July before they would be available for sale.
I managed to get everything back together with no stripped bolt holes and looks good. We’re taking a 200 mile trip this weekend with it all hooked up so see what happens.
I’ve gotten several different kinds of nut serts on Amazon. They have a lot of different
sizes there. You can easily make an installation tool out of a bolt and a few washers. Luckily those sway bolt holes are pretty easy to get to, drill out, and repair.
__________________
2021 Jayco Greyhawk 30z. Purchased new in January of 2021.
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05-10-2021, 03:22 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigav
Any thoughts on how to prevent this from happening. I plan to install a heavier sway bar soon, and I will plan to spray some penetrating oil over the course of a few days beforehand, any other thoughts? Thanks, ~CA
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That is a good start. If they are stuck, my trick is go back and forth between tightening and loosening. I seems to break the rust free, and not shear the bolt off.
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05-10-2021, 04:42 PM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
That is a good start. If they are stuck, my trick is go back and forth between tightening and loosening. I seems to break the rust free, and not shear the bolt off.
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I think the locktite is the main problem with the large bolt. Loosening and tightening with plenty of spray is the best approach
__________________
2021 Jayco Greyhawk 30z. Purchased new in January of 2021.
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