Not completely empty Black / Grey tanks on Greyhawk

[KC1SA]

On our last trip of the season our favorite dumping station close to our home was out of order so we had to go to another dump station close by but is at a slight decline / grade. I thought we got the tanks mostly empty by using ramps on the front wheels to make the coach tip back a bit while emptying the tanks but there is probably a gallon of 'stuff' in each tank. When we winterized, using 3 1/2 gallons of the pink stuff, the tanks got a fairly good amount of that stuff down the drains and toilet.

There are heating pads on the holding tanks. This morning is was in the mid-20's here in CT so I flipped the tanks on and looked at the AC power draw (we leave the coach plugged in all winter except when temps reach about 10F, which is not too often, then we turn off the AC). The power increased from a 49W draw (charging the battery, CO sensor, etc.) to about 165W then dropped back to about 90W after 30 minutes.

My questions to the more experienced RV'rs (we've only been at this 1 year and this is the first year I winterized the coach).

1. Can the heaters be left on during the cold season and no worry of burning them out or other damage?

2. Do I need to worry about this small amount of liquid in the tanks with a fair amount of pink stuff making it's way to the tanks during the winterization process.

For Winterizing I drained all water from the freshwater tank and the pipes using the low point drains, bypassed the water heater and drained it completely, and took the water filter cartridge out of the whole coach water filter. I then used 30 PSI of compressed air and blew water out of the lines opening the toilet flush, kitchen faucet, shower (indoor and outdoor), and sink in the bathroom until no water spray came out. Then I pumped the pink stuff into the hot and cold water lines and whole coach water filter, this used about 3 1/2 gallons of the antifreeze. I then used the remaining 1/2 gallon to pour down the p-traps. I think I did everything right.

Last year, being very new to owning an RV, we took the coach to a local RV dealer to have it winterized. We vowed not to do that again. $250 to winterize and they broke our kitchen faucet during the process which I had to pay to repair. In the end this was a $500+ learning experience to stay clear of RV dealers unless you are really between a rock and a hard place.

[Ttlanders]

I don’t worry about the little water left in grey and black tanks. That gallon or so in tanks is really at the dump valve which your tank heaters don’t heat with that small amount of water. The antifreeze that runs in when you winterize is enough to keep it from freezing solid. Done it this way for 30 years with no problems!

[KC1SA]

I didn't even consider that the small amount of stuff would be near the valves and the heaters wouldn't even have an effect. Thanks for the thoughts.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by KC1SA

1. Can the heaters be left on during the cold season and no worry of burning them out or other damage?

2. Do I need to worry about this small amount of liquid in the tanks with a fair amount of pink stuff making it's way to the tanks during the winterization process.

1. They probably CAN be left on all winter, assuming you have power. But I wouldn't. If the tanks are empty (or almost empty) I don't see the point in warming the plastic.

As mentioned, the heaters don't make it to the valves. And that's what freezes up on us when we winter camp. I've had to go out with the wife's hair dryer to thaw the valves so we could dump.

2. Naaa. I wouldn't worry. We've been camping and storing our RV in winter-cold Colorado for 6ish years now. Your winterization process looks good to me.

[dvspl]

Originally Posted by KC1SA

2. Do I need to worry about this small amount of liquid in the tanks with a fair amount of pink stuff making it's way to the tanks during the winterization process.

I don't think you need to worry and I certainly wouldn't use the tank heaters for this. If you are worried anyway, the gray tank (and black, depending on your level of anxiety) can easily be dumped into a bucket for disposal in your home toilet. If it were me, I'd just leave it be...

[201822j]

My plumbing process is the same as you. Drain everything then blow about 20-30 psi air through the system (Both water and black tank sprayer. Then I pump 1-1/2 gals into the tank. Run the water pump and various faucets until pink comes out hot and cold. Then I dump the remaining 1/2 gal into the toilet and drains

[SmokeyBear]

I read frequently of blowing air through the system.

1) What do you use to blow the air?

2) Where do you blow the air into the system to ensure its blowing through the entire system?

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by SmokeyBear

I read frequently of blowing air through the system.

1) What do you use to blow the air?

2) Where do you blow the air into the system to ensure its blowing through the entire system?

1) air compressor

2) city water connection

[SmokeyBear]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

1) air compressor

2) city water connection

Ah, an air compressor. I thought that would be the case. Seems that lots of people have one of those in the garage. I don't. I've never had need for one. That really makes sense, though.

Further curiosity: What do you use to fill the gap around the air hose end and the city water connection? I'm just curious. I don't live in a winterize climate.

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by SmokeyBear

Ah, an air compressor. I thought that would be the case. Seems that lots of people have one of those in the garage. I don't. I've never had need for one. That really makes sense, though.

Further curiosity: What do you use to fill the gap around the air hose end and the city water connection? I'm just curious. I don't live in a winterize climate.

The adapter threads onto the city water connection, and has, what looks like a tire valve stem end, and works like you're inflating a tire on your truck/car. Several brands in both plastic and brass. Don't pick one that uses an air hose quick connect unless you decide to buy a compressor that uses them also.

CAUTION: Use low pressure regulated to below 40 PSI to prevent damage to the plumbing.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Blo...lspartner=wlpa

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...60?store=16139

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...86?store=16139

[SeanF]

If you have an ice maker in your refer you should drain that water line too. Owners manual should have instructions.

[garywilson]

I dump my gray into a bucket and dispose of it.
Add a gallon of RV antifreeze to the black, 1/2 gallon to the gray.
Should be fine.

[Trail hunter]

We had a problem with one of our Jayco campers that always left water in the tank. Water shouldn’t be remaining in the tank after dumping. It turns out the pipe out of the tank was pushed up from the plastic liner and the drain pipe was not angled down. The pipe is connected to the take with a strap not glued so it can accidentally be pushed up to not flow correctly. Not sure about the tank heaters, but I know on ours the tanks had to have fluid.

[LuckyDuck]

Originally Posted by SmokeyBear

I read frequently of blowing air through the system.

1) What do you use to blow the air?

2) Where do you blow the air into the system to ensure its blowing through the entire system?

I found this on Amazon. Having a shut-off valve on it and a flexible hose is really helpful.