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Old 01-04-2022, 12:13 PM   #1
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Operation of Furnace

I'm seeking help on how to properly use the furnace in our unit. We purchased our 2013 Greyhawk DS is n Nov. of 2020. We are in KS, and the unit is presently in storage, with our planned usage being almost exclusively during the summer. As a result, I've never had need to use the furnace. There is a slight chance we may use the RV in March of this year, when the temps will likely be freezing, or at least near freezing. We won't de-winterize the unit since we would only be using it for overflow sleeping quarters. It has a heat pump unit, which I'm assuming would not be used for heat in that range of cold temps. I don't recall if the thermostat by the kitchen sink has a "gas" setting for heat (sorry I don't have pics of it, but believe it to be the original thermostat). The RV manual isn't too awfully descriptive, and I don't have any of the manuals/pamphlets that may have come with the thermostat(s) or furnace (don't have pics/specs on it either, but believe it to be original). Am I correct in my thought that I would need to install the coach battery for 12V power, and plug into household current shore power (wouldn't have to have 30amp power?), open the propane valve, and that's it? Things should work for gas heat ONLY from the furnace, and NOT the roof A/C/heat pump unit? Is it necessary/advisable to crack open a window or roof vent for any safety reasons?

Thank you, in advance, for your helpful responses.
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Old 01-04-2022, 12:45 PM   #2
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Operation of Furnace

Other will need to respond on the heat pump. I only have a propane furnace and use it regularly in cold conditions.

You should install the battery (some may say no, but those battery wires are unhooked waiting to spark under shore power). You should plug into shore power to charge the battery, it will only last a day or two if not charging. Depending on temperature you will use 1-4 gallons of propane a day. You don’t need the 30amp plug, 15 or 20 amps is all you need to charge the battery for the propane furnace to work. (heat pump may need 30).

No need to open windows. If the gas valves have been closed it might take a couple tries for the furnace to start, need to get the air out of the lines. Start a burner on the stove to speed it up, as soon as you get flame, shut it off, you’re good.
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Old 01-04-2022, 01:35 PM   #3
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I have a 2013 GH DK. It has the heat pump and the propane furnace. My experience is that when you first turn on the heat, even at the electric setting, that the propane heat comes on initially, but then after it reaches set point, only the heat pump comes on. Also, if the HP can't keep up, the propane will kick in. There's a temperature differential when that happens, maybe 5 or 6 degrees between actual and set. I've somewhere on this board that there is some programming logic that determines this sequence.
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Old 01-05-2022, 05:34 AM   #4
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And a tip from the road - I’ve visited several truck stop stations that used to fill RV’s and now just sell a tank and gas to go. I’m in below-freezing temps now. Hoping when I get further south it will be better. I’ve looked at the backup-buddy systems but didn’t want to drag a portable tank around. I may have to.
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