Problems Girard Tankless Water Heater GSWH-1M Revision 1

tstravel · 12-10-2018, 10:59 PM

I have a 2013 Jayco Greyhawk. On trip to Alaska this summer the water heater quit working when I was low on propane and water. Once I refilled both I tried to get it to work several times. I did purge the line to get air out and made sure propane was working by testing the stove. I finally did get it to heat water once for a few minutes but then it wouldn't do it again. I have tried calling Girard support four times and left a message to please return my call but to no avail. I did notice the sail switch was vibrating and not staying open so I am wondering if this could be the problem, especially since it did light once. The LED indicator light has never blinked or come on. Also, I have looked for a reset button and I am wondering if this model even has one as I can't find one.
I am really frustrated. I don't think it is anything serious and think it had something to do with the low propane and low water level. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

pconroy · 12-10-2018, 11:22 PM

here's the reset button location on our Gen II

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eE89B4zQoKc

Hivoltage98 · 12-11-2018, 09:35 AM

Get rid of the girard and get a truma. They are nothing but problems. I had one and switched to the truma and have 0 problems or worries that I might not have hot water.

RoWest · 12-11-2018, 10:02 AM

Same thing happened to me with my Gen I in Alaska. The sensor at the exhaust gets stuck driving on some of the worst roads imaginable. It's called the sail switch and you can see it through the exhaust port. It fastens to a small switch and if it doesn't sense the exhaust fan prior to ignition, NOTHING happens. Gently wiggle the flag-looking sail to loosen.
There is no switch on the Gen I. I love ours and would rather spend the $1000s others spend to replace it on travel. Starting today to install the circulating line back to the water tank to remedy the lag in hot water at the sink.

snowbird47 · 12-12-2018, 01:56 PM

I have a somewhat different problem with my Gen 1. It has worked fine (as good as everyone says it does - I will leave that to you imagination) for 5 years, but on our trip last week, when we turned the faucets (both sinks or shower) to "hot", we got no flow of water at all. I assume there is some kind of check valve in there but I couldn't find it, and the troubleshooting guide only talks about flame issues, not flow.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Bullitt6283 · 12-12-2018, 02:24 PM

There is no check valve. The only control in the line is a flow switch. If the flow switch piston is stuck in its bore, it might restrict the water flow. It's the first item in the line after the cold water connection.

.

snowbird47 · 12-13-2018, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullitt6283

There is no check valve. The only control in the line is a flow switch. If the flow switch piston is stuck in its bore, it might restrict the water flow. It's the first item in the line after the cold water connection.

.

Thanks, Bullitt. I will see if I can check that flow switch. Is there any valve or switch on the hot side of the system that could also be stuck? That would stop the flow as well.

Bullitt6283 · 12-13-2018, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowbird47

Thanks, Bullitt. I will see if I can check that flow switch. Is there any valve or switch on the hot side of the system that could also be stuck? That would stop the flow as well.

According to the owners manual, no.

tstravel · 12-13-2018, 07:53 PM

Just wanted to say thank you again. I finally got a call from Girard support after addressing my issue on their online support page. For those interested, there are reset buttons on some GSWH-M1 models and not others. I gave them my serial number and my model does not have a reset button. Makes me feel a little better as I searched and searched and never found one. Also it sounds like my problem is with the gas flow as the igniter still clicks and the blower works. Need to see who I can get to adjust it.

snowbird47 · 12-16-2018, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hivoltage98

Get rid of the girard and get a truma. They are nothing but problems. I had one and switched to the truma and have 0 problems or worries that I might not have hot water.

Great idea if you have the money to spend: Girard about
$500 - $600, Truma over $2000, neither includes installation.

Bullitt6283 · 12-16-2018, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowbird47

Great idea if you have the money to spend: Girard about
$500 - $600, Truma over $2000, neither includes installation.

^^^+1
I'd be switching from Girard to Truma if they weren't so ridiculously expensive.

.

edsamuel1957 · 12-16-2018, 11:38 PM

I had to replace the gas modulator on mine. It was stuck full open. It's a design problem with the way the gas modulator valve is positioned. The output side is exposed to the outside air and can become contaminated and stop the valve from working properly. This only happens if the unit sits unused for long periods. It takes time for the outside air and humidity and outer contaminates to reach the valve from the burners. Eventually I'm going to install a one way valve on the modulator valve output to stop this.

tjbroussard · 02-22-2019, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoWest

Same thing happened to me with my Gen I in Alaska. The sensor at the exhaust gets stuck driving on some of the worst roads imaginable. It's called the sail switch and you can see it through the exhaust port. It fastens to a small switch and if it doesn't sense the exhaust fan prior to ignition, NOTHING happens. Gently wiggle the flag-looking sail to loosen.
There is no switch on the Gen I. I love ours and would rather spend the $1000s others spend to replace it on travel. Starting today to install the circulating line back to the water tank to remedy the lag in hot water at the sink.

Best tip about the sail switch. After three years of a "love / hate" relationship with our Gen 1 Girard, I read this and then made a small notch in the exhaust to give the sail switch lever more travel space. WORKS like a champ! Just spent three weeks in it as we were between homes and after the repair...never an a problem.

Thank you!

Terry

Kendob · 09-13-2020, 11:00 AM

Hot water on demand heats up the water as it flows so the higher the water pressure/flow the colder it will be sometimes only opening the hot tap 1/2 way or less is all you have to do.

jdcravens · 03-19-2023, 06:35 AM

Ive got issues with the GSWH-1M maintaining a consistent heat. There are ~2 second bursts of hot water and then continued luke warm water. The red light continues to turn on and off. The external dial that allows you to adjust the flame doesn't seem to impact the heat at all.

This appears to be a replacement from the previous owner, so Im trying to learn anything I can about how it works.

I cant find any info in manual or youtube videos, on what is actually happening when the red light turns on and if it supposed to be switching on and off routinely. Can anyone provide some insight ?

Bullitt6283 · 03-19-2023, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdcravens

Ive got issues with the GSWH-1M maintaining a consistent heat. There are ~2 second bursts of hot water and then continued luke warm water. The red light continues to turn on and off. The external dial that allows you to adjust the flame doesn't seem to impact the heat at all.

This appears to be a replacement from the previous owner, so Im trying to learn anything I can about how it works.

I cant find any info in manual or youtube videos, on what is actually happening when the red light turns on and if it supposed to be switching on and off routinely. Can anyone provide some insight ?

I have the same water heater. Here's a section of the Manual. Does your LED flash in a pattern?
.

RoWest · 03-19-2023, 08:28 AM

I found the scalding to freezing cycle is water pressure related. The water heater needs 40 psi minimum to regulated it's burner. Check that.

Bullitt6283 · 03-19-2023, 09:03 AM

The Girard GSWH-1M is basically just uncontrollable and a gross waster of water.

It has a water flow switch, which shuts off the burner unless there is a minimum flow of water. Above that minimum flow, there could be just about any amount of water going through the unit. And if there is a lot of flow, the water won't be in the heat exchanger long enough to heat up.

And then when you turn off the water, as when boondocking (taking a 'Navy Shower') the water that resides in the heat exchanger actually gets overheated. So when you turn the water back on, you get an unpleasant surprise.

There is a temperature control wall knob which controls the burner. But it is not calibrated and there is no guide where to adjust it depending on the incoming water temperature. There is a big difference in incoming water temperature between underground piping in a campsite during Spring or Fall versus the onboard RV tank in the middle of Summer. And remember the flow rate is also a factor in how hot the water is heated.

The later version Girard GSWH-2 water heater has water temperature sensors on the inlet and outlet connections and a control panel where you can set the water temperature desired. This unit has a real temperature control system.
.

You may also like: